BabySpinach

This is what the issue was. Remembered after taking it off that i was able to remove the screws for the ignition switch with my fingers. Slid bolt forward as much as it could, rebolted, and it turns on normally now. This was after following FSM testing for the switch and checking all wires for shorts or connectivity issues. Thanks for the help, everyone!

Sat a few months but drove fine. Got it inspected and everything. Zero issues until a day after inspection. No mods to engine. My only other guess here is the power wire on the ignition is loose or shorts.

Wouldn't i still be able to slide the slider all the way over and have the engine crank?

UPDATE: I pulled the ignition switch and REPLACED it and it's still not starting... HOWEVER.. If I jump 12v to the green wire on the ignition switch, the vehicle starts right up normally. (Even on the old switch) This was tested with the ignition switch in the on position. There is no damage to the old switch. No signs of corrosion or burning or discoloration on any terminal. I must be misunderstanding all of the inputs to that switch. One of the other wires must be the culprit.

Thank you! I will attempt tomorrow. Interesting to know this part goes bad. Makes me confident nothing else blew up given the testing I've performed.

I don't have any of the lower plastic on and I can see the area with the four bolts. Do I need to remove these four bolts shown in the second to last picture?

Starter relay has 12v on the power node. it SHOULD work as expected. Only thing I can see wrong is its not getting 12v from the ignition. By top do you mean I can remove the Gauge cluster and it will be accessible? I am confused by what you mean by lowering the column.

Getting no crank and no start when I turn the key. NSS bypassed. Still nothing. Tested Relay and I'm getting 0v from the ignition key to the relay, thus the relay isn't firing. I should be getting 12v when key is in the cranking position. I am able to start vehicle normally by shorting positive to solenoid on starter. I cannot seem to find ANY wiring diagram on where the wire for the ignition start runs from the actual steering wheel/inside the vehicle. 1990 year if it makes a dif. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks in advance!

The measurement from the center of the perch (the eye) to the backplate face on the axle (not the disk brake shield [i did a disk brake conversion]) is 6.25 inches on the left side and 6.25 inches on the right side.

They are 6.25 inches from the base plate to the perch eye. Exactly the same spacing as the D35. The Dana 35 uses 1-3/4" brakes, the Chryco 8-1/4 uses 2-1/2" brakes ... but the wheel-mating-surface to wheel-mating-surface dimension is the same. That means the 8-1/4" backing plates are farther inboard than those on the D35. If you measure the center-to-center distance of your perches, I'll bet it isn't the same on the "new" axle as on the old D35. Just took measurements. Dana 35 is exactly 42" spacings. 21" to center on each side from perch mount eye. Chrysler 8.25 is exactly 42". 21" to center on each side from perch mount eye. My measurements are identical.. I'd have to guess if I put the D35 back in, it would also be off by an inch.

Everything I saw showed the swap was identical. I'll go measure when I get a min. They're already welded in and completely bolted up. :(

They are 6.25 inches from the base plate to the perch eye. Exactly the same spacing as the D35.

Measured perch mounts from the center spring retaining hole eye to the backplate for the brakes on the axle.

Here are pics of the driver's side and passengers side: Driver's Side looking back: Passenger's Side looking back:

Hello, I just finished swapping a 1999 Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ into my Comanche rear. I cut off the shock mounts and perches. Welded the perches in exactly the same spacing as the Dana 35 that was removed (6.25 in eye-to-eye). The driveline is centered, but when checking the spacing on either side of the vehicle, the tire sticks out 1 inch further past the frame on the drivers side. Everything is torqued to spec.. Not sure what to do? Can I run a 1 inch spacer on the passenger side? Is this a common issue? I've read about some Cherokees having this issue from the factory.