hakukamana

Perfect, thanks for the update gives me everything I need to know about exploding the aluminum casting. No seriously the part number is a life saver. The process is also greatly appreciated. I really don't want to do this more than once in the life of my Eliminator.

Ok, its not really the water pump bearing, but the AC bracket, mechanical fan shaft bearing assembly. The shaft is pressed into the aluminum bracket has a bearing and a shaft the hub for the mechanical fan rides on the hub and has 4 studs. I have a squeal from the bearing and need to replace the bearing. Checked online and got a reference to the part as the water pump bearing. It has nothing to do with the water pump. The only one I saw was an Omix Ada part number 17104.83 but it does not (supposedly fit and 89' Comanche). The reviews are also pretty bad, longer shaft, sloppy bearings, some have died in less than 100 miles. I tried to remove one from an old bracket I had only to break the housing in the press. Any insight for a part or replacement? Also how about a service procedure, if any no reference in the FSM.

1989 Eliminator 282000

The 89' Eliminator is pushing the 280K mark and I know that at some point in time I am going to have to either rebuild or replace the engine. I have a couple of issues. I live in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, only 2 machine shops on the island, one will do a rebuild of the engine, the other will only do the machining no assembly. The local part houses have various suppliers that I have researched but not one has a really good review on quality, service backup, or warranty support. I have Googled a number of engine remanufacturers but its hard to tell the quality levels based upon a webpage. I don't need a stroker, (Hesco) and really don't need the extra HP or the use of 92 Octane, just a solid well built stock 4.0L that will give me another 280K or more. The plan is to drive it till it dies but I would like to have my backup on hand so the downtime is minimized. Have search here on the Forum but not a lot of info regarding remanufactured engines and suppliers, any experiences or suggestions would be appreciated.

3 times the price of the other solenoids.

This appears to be what is in the transmission

Here's what I ordered, its suppose to be (2) shift solenoids and (1) lock up solenoid. These are not going to fit in the existing solenoid positions, or be able to be mounted correctly.

I have an AW4 in an 89' Eliminator, I ordered the 3 pack solenoid kit for the AW4 for the correct years. I get into the trans and the solenoids are not even close to the correct ones. They won't mount correctly they face the wrong direction, the connectors are wrong. Verified the order with the vendor, nope those are for your 89 AW4, but that's not whats in the transmission. Anybody got a clue?

Try PB Blaster, a little tapping on the bolts, and either a 14mm or 15 mm for the bolt heads. Never had the starter bolts seize. If all else fails use a MAP gas torch on the heads after a good soaking of the PB Blaster, between the heat and the rust eater they should come out. Be patient the last thing you want is a snapped bolt head. Good luck

Lights turn on with key off. Blinkers only work with key in the run position. I think that that 12ga red wire from the link might have been as Ohm indicated for the fog light relay. there are no wires in the loom for the fog lights nor are there any wires to support a fog lamp relay.

Ohm, thanks for the 87' manual, I have the 88' but didn't know if there were differences between the two. So this one should get your head scratching, fuse link J has a splice to the front lighting harness and says to the headlights. The wire was cut at the link, I traced it to the front lighting harness connector.The 12ga red wire goes through the front harness in the engine compartment from the J fuse link and ends in the connector for the front light harness, and it connects to nothing, there is no receiving wire that the 12ga red wire routes to in the front lighting harnessconnector. I have no clue...…..

OK, Ohm this one a 87' has no ballast resistor, nor can I find wires in the harness usually Org/Blk with tab connectors to plug into the resistor. I looked at an 88' that I have and it shows the double green link as in picture (3) having one red wire on one link, and three red wires on the other. Do I have to many fuse links in the harness? (2) org/green links, one Green link to a 2 Red, maybe 3 red and One double green one side cut and one side connected to a red.

This is one of my latest projects, 87' 4.0L Shortbed Pioneer 5 speed manual no AC. I started to look at the wiring harnesses and noticed that I had some cut and splice work going on. All of my other MJ's have a 4 tab starter relay, this one has a 3 tab relay. The relay also has the normal ringed fuse links but two of them have been cut and one has a splice connector. The links are not identified on the insulation, so I am using the elimination technique. The alternator, the battery, and the two org/grn double wire fuse links are in tact. The double green link, is cut with no indication of a cut wire in the harness that it would attach to, based upon the length. The double green link looks like a factory link. The single green link with the little rubber tab at the ring terminal, seems to be the 3 wire red feed to the ETR fuse, the fog lights(which I don't have) and the engine compartment light (which I don't have). That link to me does not look link a factory link. The question is whats the best way to determine what goes to what????? I have both schematics for the starter relay.

Worn brushes was the culprit. I took it to my local alternator/starter rebuilder in town, we tore the case down and there was little to nothing left of the brushes. New Mitsubishi starter, works like it did before the issue. I wonder how long the brushes last? Thanks for the help guys, never had this issue happen before so was not clued in to the brush issue with the starter.

Ohm, it looks like approximate cranking amps is 160 based upon the 88 electrical manual. They are using a S-VAT-40 meter its the old style carbon pile load tester and a CCA tester. I have a load tester but not like the S-VAT-40 tester, I also have a Fluke 88 meter so I have some good electronic instruments, I have a clamp on amp tester but I don't know what that would show. Amp draw during cranking from the battery or the starter relay ????? Shouldn't the voltage draw and the amperage draw be the same during cranking from the B+ battery post and the starter relay feed ?