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hakukamana

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About hakukamana

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    Comanche Fan

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    Big Island, Hawaii

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  1. No emissions testing at all. We have a "Safety Check", if the wheels stay on the car you pass and $25 for the inspection. I think that fitting might be a M22x1.5. Went through my sizing gauges and the OD only fits M22, the only two M22 size thread pitches are 1.5 fine, 2.5 course. Thread distance measurements look to be 1.5. Now which way to go with the EGR?
  2. Anyone know the fitting size for the EGR tube fittings? I am in the process of installing a Pacesetter header on the Eliminator, and of course the new EGR bung on the exhaust manifold has moved causing an issue with the installation of the EGR tube. Not sure about doing the EGR delete versus trying to fab up a new EGR pipe. I did try to fab a pipe out of a extra EGR pipe I had, but could not get it air tight, had some leaks. I took it to a weld shop and so far they are not having much success either. I saw some flex pipe that would take the heat but no real way to make the fittings work. You need a flange at the end of the pipe to seal when the fitting is tightened up and a straight length for the fitting to swivel when installing. It appears that this simple modification has turned into a nightmare. Any ideas would be welcome.
  3. Glad to hear you got her running again, Look up Dover Gray Poly Metallic. Its an OEM color for that era. Its kind of a cool color.
  4. No problem, glad to help, it all comes down to a passion for the trucks, and keeping them running.
  5. #1/BLU, #2/LT GRN, #3/TAN, #4/YEL, #5/WHT, #6/BRN Hope this helps
  6. Injector harness wiring diagram. Color codes correspond, to the injector #
  7. Did you find a head? I have one! The problem I see is its probably cost prohibitive to ship to you from my location. Let me know if you want to pursue that option.
  8. Good luck, up to 90 will work, Cherokee, Wrangler. What ever is available. Call your local machine shop. They may have a head, from someone who dropped one off, and didn't want to pay for the work.
  9. At this point, remove the head. Pull the entire rocker arm assembly. Keep things in order, don't mix things up. The valve train is worn specific to it's current location. You need to look at the lifters, once the heads off. Keep them in order, check #1 intake and exhaust for visible damage. If you have a valve spring compressor tool, pull the keepers off and pull the springs. You may have broken a spring. Once the springs are off if the valves are straight, you should be able to move them up and down in thier bores without much effort. If not well you know, the valve stem is bent. Depending on how severe the damage is a replacement head from the bone yard might be the best choice.
  10. A stuck valve, a hole in the piston, a collapsed lifter are all causes of a bent push rod. You probably should remove the push rods to see if you have more than one that is bent. Hard to eye ball if they have a slight bend but they are no good if they do. Best way to check to to roll the push rod on a piece of glass and see if it wobbles. It also allows you to see the area that is bent. Lifters require the heads to be removed. Probably a good thing because you can check to see if #1 has a bent valve as well. If the valve stuck or bent, the cam pushes up on the lifter and then the pushrod and it doesn't want to go any where so it bends. Not catastrophic, but not like changing a spark plug. If the valves are bad rebuild the head. Don't just drop a valve and a push rod in you probably should replace the lifters as well. Good luck, been there done that!
  11. I would check the rocket arms, and the entire valve train. Pull the head and look at the valves, might have a collapsed lifter.
  12. Have you pulled the valve cover?
  13. Run a compression check on the motor. Then post the results. Check your oil level.
  14. Any ideas on where to purchase "New" AW4 solenoids. I have Googled and I keep seeing the solenoids for 87/2001 for Cherokee's, 90-93 for Comanche's. I know no 93' Comanches thier info not mine. Any body found a reliable USA based manufacturer of these components. I want to do all three.
  15. The LTFT numbers I guess indicate less fuel required to hit the stoic magic number of 128. Pulse width closed loop after warm up and at idle is about 5. to 5.1 ms
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