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Hey, all the info on the HP vs. LP is much appreciated, but I still have questions about leaf springs. Currently it is SOA on a Chrysler 8.25 - it still sags a bit compared to the front. Should I do an add a leaf or a shackle to straighten it up. Should I put a load of stuff in it for camping I would like to not have to cut the fenders for it to not rub on 33s. Looking at Bilstein 5125 shocks. How do I make sure I have the travel and length measurements correct?

Any tips on swapping gears? I wouldn't mind the effort if I felt comfortable with it. Looks like it involves a press, which i don't have. Since I have a manual, I think the 4.1 will be just fine with the 33's.

Weren't those aluminum dana 44s?

Thanks for the info on the TJ Axle! I just read that they bolt in, didn't realize it was low pinion. My front pinion is leaking, thought a new one would be easier than rebuilding it. I haven't pulled it yet, so I will keep looking for a 4.10 off an xj, or regear mine. Looking to swap the rear axle for the disc brakes from the explorer and for funsies. I work in finance, I am doing this stuff because I find it a fun hobby, even if it doesn't come second nature to me. I want to keep the 33"x12" tires that came with it and size the lift to fit and ride nicely with that. I have the 4.0 renix with the Peugeot 5 speed. The truck will be used for overlanding/hunting and an occasional trail in Utah as I am a few miles away. Mainly trips to the hardware store and taking the mountain bike to the trailhead.

I have had my MJ for 4.5 years now and I finally have some time/money to fix some things from the prior owner and have some questions. Thankfully I have only driven it sparingly on the weekends, but now I have the means to do something great with it. Previous owner put an XJ chrysler 8.25 under it and did spring over. They didn't move the spring perches and it rides horribly. The springs also bottom out easily when you load up the bed -It came with 33" wheels. I pulled a 4.10 Ford 8.8 from the junkyard and found a dana 30 from a '97 TJ manual 4 cyliner - Also 4.10. The truck is getting brand new axles! I am adding a lunchbox locker up front and looking at an OX locker for the ford 8.8. The current front springs have some spacers in them. I bought Rubicon Express 4.5" springs with lower control arm lowering kit to hopefully improve the ride. I want to do the rear springs right. Do I keep the old twisted stock springs that were converted to spring over? Do I stay spring over with the new Ford 8.8? I don't mind buying new springs, but I wouldn't know which ones to get with the new axle so the height is right to match the front. Is there a way I can get an inch or so of rear lift with an add-a-leaf? Just put in a shackle? I want to use the bed fairly frequently as it is a long bed so I want the springs a bit stiffer. More of an overlanding build than a rock climbing build. PS, I plan on using the iron rock off road swap kit. https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xj-ford-88-axle-swap-kit-w-truss.html There is an option that comes with a truss, but I will have to trim it down to fit the width of the MJ spring perches. I was planning on doing this. Any thoughts on why that wouldn't be a good idea?

My heater stopped working last year in the middle of a December Elk hunt, not very fun! Looking to replace the heater core, and was thinking ... how hard would it be to add air conditioning at the same time? Are the 91-96 systems compatible with my '88 4.0 Renix?

There was a short in the alternator. I am going to once again go through Cruiser's list and check all the grounds. I left it at a mechanic in a small town to sort it out. I will be dropped of Friday and drive it back.

Some updates. I have the updated cables that cruiser has mentioned. The 150 amp stereo fuse on the cable to the alternator blew. There is a short somewhere in the system that is drawing a lot of juice. This is beyond me, but luckily I had a buddy in the area that highly recommended a mechanic. It might be a short in the alternator itself. Who knows.

Update, now it won't start. Hear clicking from the starter, but it doesn't engage/turn over. I am stranded.

I am currently driving to Moab (live in Salt Lake). Previously my blinkers wouldn't work. I replaced the blinker solenoids, blinker switch, worked electrical connectors etc. Nothing worked. After a while and much frustration they started working again. I drove the truck several times prepping for the trip and today made it about half way when they went out again. This time headlights are also really dim and cabin lights are out, making it dangerous to drive at night. It was raining. The high speed wipers don't work, but the low speed do, but REALLY SLOW!. Any ideas for the gremlins here? I had replaced wiring with the aftermarket kit suggested on the site that someone makes. Hoping everything starts working again and I am not stuck on the road. Maybe it is a moisture issue? Anyone have something similar?

I am having very similar issues. I have replaced the blinker switch, the 2 round relays and cleaned out the connector. What are these blinker sockets and where can I get them. I heard of people using Ford sockets. Is that better? I think after this I need to see if there is a ground somewhere with the wires. My hazards work, but my blinkers do not.

Feel like the dumbest millennial. I had the whole steering column broken down when I noticed the actual lever sticking out of the column. I was thinking it was something on the inside. The previous ignition cylinder was so loose, it turned without it and I never used the lever! The new one worked and then the lever became effective and I never knew it was there!

Man! I wasn't sure if it was an original 5 speed or not, and it was. It is just the center console mount is loose and looks like it was messed with. I bought it from a kid that bought it from a guy that worked on it. What isn't original is the 4wd (I think). I know they put a chrysler 8.25 on it, but I just looked up the VIN in a decoder (Not always accurate) and I found that it was a 2wd and ... that it was originally a big ton? Does that mean that the previous owner pulled out the d44 for the 8.25? Crazy if so. You searched for VIN : 1JTMW66F8JT106516 This vehicle's data: Country of Manufacture United States Manufacturer Jeep Corporation Vehicle Type Truck Engine 4.0L, I-6, MPI Powertrain 5-speed manual, floor gear shift, 2 W/D Body Type Jeep Comanche, 2-W/D Pickup, 7.0 foot bed, 120 inch wheel base Gross Vehicle Weight Comanche, Base, Metric Ton, Big Ton / Comanche, Custom, Metric Ton, Big Ton = 5001 - 6000 lbs Assembly Plant Toledo, Ohio, USA Model Year 1988 Read more: http://www.jeepz.com/forum#ixzz4ShSBF8wj

There is a mechanism. The column for a manual tranny has a release lever to allow the cylinder to turn to the final OFF/REMOVE position. For the automatics, this was done with a cable from the shifter. This is the same mechanism that locks the steering wheel -- does your wheel lock? If your truck is a manual, and you don't have the release lever, it probably is a column from an automatic, and whoever installed it didn't bother to create a way to release the key. Thanks, I don't think the wheel locked. I will try to find a way to work this out. Previously the cylinder returned all the way and I could remove the key.

AMC86Kid, that actually helped. On mine the rod that controls the steering wheel lock etc. is stuck. It doesn't stick out with the wheel steering wheel off and without it moving back to where it sticks out with the wheel off, the key won't release from the cylinder because it is not in the right position. I haven't seen any other write ups that talk about that rod. I will try to get to it from underneath the dash and see if I can figure out why it is sticking.