Salvagedcircuit

Woah boy is that clean! nice finish!

Luckyyyyy Dog!

The mighty has awoken

Nice job on saving her from the scrapper! Nice score

That's a great photo! it deserves a spot on the Comanche's Earning Their Keep Thread

Nice work! I should check mine. I think mine is a bit wet back there...

Sounds like someone won the best uncle of the year award. Nice Job Pete

It sure sounds like it ended up in the right hands. Congrats on the new ride I'm sure you will enjoy her

Man this guy's got it. Dang. If I ever had the budget to make a stroker street comanche, I'd definitely get an engine combo from him. crazyyy.

If you do get new door gasket material, keep in mind it makes closing the door take more effort. You will need to apply more force to close the door until the new gasket ages a bit and deforms from being under pressure. In the short run, you may actually be better off getting a decent looking gasket from a junk yard like the guys mentioned above. Sorry I forgot to mention this earlier

Maybe try reaching out to steelerubber or Precision Replacement Parts and they will sell you the very generic door rubber moldings cut to size. worth a shot! I just did the door gasket on my comanche and the one on my astro van. The gasket material was nearly identical from two different places.

Oh no. That's unfortunate. I'm still logged in and everything seems to be working fine otherwise.

This just showed up on facebook marketplace and I couldn't believe it. I read about comanche's being used as dealership parts trucks, but I've never seen one myself, especially one belonging to the dealership my folks got their grand cherokee from. From what it seems this comanche was retired just recently and it was replaced by a sprinter van. I called up the dealership to find out why they had it so long and they told me it was because it would not die and that it did not need commercial plates. It worked great moving the big items back and forth between locations. Gosh I wish I had known earlier, I would have grabbed it. Time to call up some nearby dealerships

@AZJeff excellent, excellent build Your Comanche was the inspiration and tipping point for my MJ build. Before I was a member here, I read the averagesquad writeup and told myself, yep, I'm doing that. It took me a while to realize this was your build

Ooof. Try and clean everything up with degreaser and an old rag and check for damage again, It may not look as bad as you thought. Definitely check the brake lines and make sure there are no nicks or dents in them.

I first grabbed the yellow euro-style retrobrights from an ebay seller who had the pair up new open box for $90. Well worth it. I just got the clear ones used from someone on marketplace and they are well used but at least I don't have to be concerned about getting pulled over now. There's no rule I could find against yellow colored lights in NH or NY state, but it's one of those things where you don't want to give them a reason. Frankly I hate the look of morphed alien head style aliexpress import headlights, so these were a great alternative to the original sealed bulb design. I believe they are just yellow DOT lenses. Forgive my lack of worldly-ness but I don't know what ECE means Is it an outside US approval body?

If you have any questions, I have two sets of the retrobrights. One is the 5x7 euro style, one is the clear style. The led module is made out of aluminum with a copper heat pipe running through it. The led module is removable with 2 torx screws. There is an o-ring seal and it seals against the front outer housing. There is thermal paste between them. One of mine has a little less thermal paste than I would have liked, so I added more. What is strange is the outer housing is a fused combination of a clear Polycarbonate lens and a plated dicast housing. The housing has weight like it's cast zinc or something similar but has the look and feel of metalized plastic. The die cast part is also silver painted. The silver paint does rub off with an eraser and is not very scratch resistant. I asked holley how they made the euro versions, they actually dyed the Polycarbonate yellow. There's no way to make a yellow lens clear. I can post some photos if you are interested. Otherwise I'm happy with them.

Thread Revival! Has anyone seen this guy's round light conversion: I just discovered the Jeep Casablanca concept yesterday and I think it looks the closest so far. It still looks a bit strange, but I don't know if that's because of the amazon alien-head headlights or that it makes the front look too wide. I feel like I should give this a shot using a scrap 97+ header panel from a junkyard and a Wrangler JK blinker

you want to check the 1988 electrical manual which is here. page 89-91 shows the information you want. On page 89 it shows the O2 sensor is on the injector harness that directly connects to the C101 engine control harness. This should not be that hard to find as every cherokee and comanche from 87-88 had this harness. 1986 did not have a 4.0L in either cherokee or comanche. page 90: Engine control harness page 91: Engine harness

This is the stuff I used for my power steering fluid. Valvoline 602241. It cross referenced to the original gm fluid for the Saginaw box. You can get it at any auto parts store. It's red in color.

That looks great! I mainly use toolboxes to carry all my tools, but this year my newly acquired ratcheting open end wrench tool pouch has been worth it's weight in gold. It's definitely the little things that matter. Back in ~2007 my grandfather gifted me a small clam shell set of standard craftsman sockets and wrenches. It was toward the final years of USA production. He's since passed and I think of him every time I use that kit.

Excellent work! My PS cap was completely broken when I got my MJ. I replaced it and I noticed it was was wet every time I used the jeep. it was strange. I was thinking of rebuilding my power steering pump, but it seemed too daunting of a task so I decided to just flush it out. I used (3) bottles of power steering fluid and it has not bubbled up or left a wet cap since. Part of me still wants to rebuild it, because it can probably use it, but it's certainly nice to know that it's do-able

It is extremely likely the dorman header is identical to this and sourced from the same supplier. Something you want to check is how flat it actually is. I have a renix jeep, so I just went with a renix header (it was less work) but I had to literally take a metal file to the internal and external edges because there were burrs. I then took it to a granite surface block and some 400grit sandpaper. The renix header is really a trash design. Just look at how the pipes are welded inside. it's a complete welding disaster. The baffle style header you selected is a better design, but it would have required me to redo the entire down pipe that I *just* replaced. I bead blasted mine, blew off with an oil-free air compressor, cleaned with alcohol, blew it off again then brush painted it with VHT high temp paint. The paint flaked off in like 30 hours. VHT paint is truly garbage.

1) That could be part of the front CAD axle vacuum tubing (there's a grouping of 3 aluminum 1/8in tubes to the front axle on the US passenger front side) or part of the return brake lines from the rear prop valve. send photos if you have them. 2) From 87-88, the 4.0L engine wiring harness has a connector, "c101" on the US drivers side of the firewall. It may be easier to disconnect that instead of cutting a harness in a junk yard. The other wiring harness also has a connector on the drivers side firewall, further towards the bottom, that's the entire harness from the inside fuse panel. 3) Not sure.

If it's on the drivers side and you drive on the left side, it's your O2 sensor! Here's one with the same style slots on the o2 sensor.