Salvagedcircuit

Woah, I really need to get some new injectors. I think the best I've seen is 17-18 mpg. That and install my tonneau cover, add rear wheel skirts, and maybe I should just take the plunge and get one of these and custom print an entire lower body splash guard / air diverter. Then I should hopefully get into the 20s lol

Update: The new 23.5gallon tank with new fuel lines, breather hoses and rollover valves solved gas-squirting-out-the-fill-port at gas station problem. Frankly, it was quite a bit of work and like $400 but it solved the problem What worked for me: New gates barracuda EFI lines fuel lines and vent tube lines. 5/16, 3/8 and 1/4. unlabeled cherokee rollover valves from amazon dorman straps (but I bent them properly) Liland $130 gas tank from rockauto 1/4in to 3/16 brass barb adapter new sheathed hose clamps I purchased new dorman straps and bent them identically to the original straps. They fit just like the originals. You just really need to take your time and use a pair of knipex smooth jaw pliers to make the bends. The dorman gas tank straps are a bit thinner, but they are pre-painted and new metal. the old ones felt compromised a bit and were relatively easy to bend for the material thickness. A nuissance is that AMC loved using custom molded hoses. The roll over valves require 1/4in tubing, but the entire comanche vacuum lines are 3/16, so you need to make a hose barb adapter to make everything work. I went with 1/4in EFI line and a 3/16 to 1/4in adapter. I reused: original J-bolts. Fuel fill hose from tank to gas flap Fuel fill fuel breather hose from gas tank to gas flap The fill hose set I purchased that was for a cherokee did not fit. The fill hose was nowhere near the right diameter. The vent hose was the correct size. The lack of labeling on the rubber hoses did not install confidence, so I used the original hoses. The original J-bolts were rusty but came out but messed up my j-bolt perches in the bed sheetmetal. these were easy to fix with a hammer and pliers so no worries. I did purchase newly manufactured j-bolts which were identical to the oem ones, but the thread quality was like 90% as good as the OEM ones. It works otherwise! I'll add some photos when I have more time, hopefully this weekend. I added this because I found too much conflicting info online.

I have the annoying 16 gallon gas tank. I'm upgrading to the 23gallon but I need the correct Long Bed 23 gallon Fuel pump sender/pickup assembly. Can paypal asap Thanks!

Thanks! Now I need to find a 23gallon sender/pickup assembly so I can have a reasonable fuel gauge lol

My long bed 16gal tank does this and I'm debating moving over to the 23gallon tank with new rollover valves, hose lines and vent lines. I purchased all the gates fuel injector barricade MPI lines so they are actually rated for ethanol fuel, not the misleading "fuel line" rated fuel line that is a gimmick. Do you think this will solve the fuel overflow problem? Has anyone solved it? Thanks

The b-pillar plugs are a slightly different size. when I cad'ed up some for my interior, the ones on the A-pillar did not fit snug in the b-pillar. I have the cad somewhere. its been a while.

Nothing but the best. Excellent work.

To put this problem to a close: it was my muffler tube hitting into my crossmember. I forgot to replace the exhaust hanger insulator block on the crossmember when I replaced the aw4 insulator and that was a big mistake on my part. Part# 53000101 is anyone is interested. I torqued down a band clamp around it for the time being but will find a more permanent solution soon enough

Added! Good eye!

Aww yeah, aluminum valve cover looking good

Looking at this some more, this highlight / reflective stripe faded / miscolored after staying in the ultrasonic too long. could have been from heat or isopropyl alcohol.

Nice work!

I have been wrestling with the AMC panel alignment gods to finally get my comanche in paint-worthy state. However, the marker lights have been a weird one. I noticed the clone turning signal lights, marker lights, front fascia pieces etc.. have a terrible fitment with oem front panel pieces. I grabbed some used OEM marker lights but some have a yellow stripe towards the grill while others do not. Which is correct? did the style / paint line change over the 1984-1996 years?

I installed new precision door seals on the driver side of my mj. I think it's been about 1.5 years installed. driver door bounces unless i slam it. its very annoying. it did not get easier to close. I did not change my passenger side door and I don't plan on it.

Please tell me there's manual window cranks Hahaha. Enjoy the new ride! Looks great.

Excellent!

Same thing just happened with my anderson front screen door handle. 1/8in of the roll pin sheared off and caused the handle to wobble. just needed a new roll pin. She'll be right!

Diesel MJ bby

Hell yeah. Rollbar support!

If you ever take it apart / remove the cover to clean it, I'd Love to see how the headrests were implemented. I wonder if there was a custom welded in bracket in the back. I bet its covered in foam though. It would be neat to see though. The headrest bench seats are so dang rare

Awesome truck, now get to that front diff!

My Dude is out here speaking the truth. Spraying silicone lube in my manual worm gear is like a 5% improvement. Its embarrassing to roll down my driver window and it sounds like a 1980s kitchenaid mixer missing a few teeth on low. You rock for the suggestion.

Awesome adventure. Thanks for taking us along!

is there anywhere to get the pins for the factory harness? I don't mind making one, I just assumed the pins for the 10 pin connector are unobtanium at the moment, so I'd just buy one that exists and modify it. This is the 10 pin fully populated harness. I was going to buy this one but I think it s for HO though because it has (2) relays https://www.ebay.com/itm/406152753401