Salvagedcircuit

Looking for Tan seat belts. Passenger and driver side. Bonus points if you have the mating clips. Can paypal. Was going to buy new seatbelts, but don't want to wait 4 weeks for someone to create them. Thanks a ton -Anthony

You sir, are the right kind of bonkers! Excellent build. Well deserved!

Yeah, I'm going to replace the relays. When tested externally, one of them seems to be slightly slower than the others, but they seem fine otherwise. They had a good run. Stamped 1987, made in England. Quality Checked by the Queen herself

I'm thinking of making a clasp so I can put it on the keychain. maybe brass.

Excellence has arrived Many thanks to @fiatslug87 I would not have grabbed this if you didn't post it!

My Mj did not have functioning AC on purchase. The AC compressor wires were spliced 5 times which I replaced. I believe it's wired correctly now, but not 100% sure. There is no inline diode as shown in the electrical diagram in the 88 electrical manual. I spent time this weekend troubleshooting and it turned out my ac compressor clutch coil was completely shorted. I have replaced the ac compressor clutch and coil and recharged the low side of the system with a walmart ez-chill recharge kit. Surprisingly, the small gauge on the bottle shows the system is holding pressure, which is wild considering the front condenser looks very old and toasty. Unfortunately, the A/C compressor clutch never engages and the engine rpm never falls indicating there's a load from the A/C compressor. I tested the ac clutch separated from the comanche with a 12v variable power supply. The new clutch engages fine. I have an REM Renix module. It states "off A/C" which means the clutch signal is not active and the ECU is not allowing the A/C Compressor to activate. I have "max ac" on and the dial all the way to cold. It looks like there is an additional "REQ" setting for A/C diagnosis that I did not check yet. Tested: -A/C compressor clutch shorted (checked with multimeter) -no 12v signal to the compressor when max AC on (checked with multimeter) -A/c compressor never comes on, even after recharge and new clutch. -new A/C compressor clutch freewheels smoothly What I did: -new AC clutch. spacing within service manual tolerance. -new AC compressor wiring -recharged system Possible Culprit: -Failed Pressure switch -I accidentally removed the air temp sensor from the driver side engine bay. I think A/C system needs this? -ac expansion valve? -compressor has failed? Let me know if you guys have any input. I'm very new to A/C systems. Thanks!

Yep. Hk7 kit includes the o-rings. I think they are green in color. They are absolutely essential. These are gas-resistant o-rings, you cannot use hardware-store o-rings they will not work. Good luck with it!

You might find this thread helpful: I used the standard motor products HK7 fitting. It worked great.

I just checked. Yes, the radio LCD blinks when the hazard lights are on, just like above. The radio lcd blink is slightly less noticeable though. Well, I was hoping I wouldn't find these. More Duct-tape crimps. I originally thought this was PO work, but I remember reading threads about duct-tape crimps. I wonder how long amc / jeep did this. I finally figured out that orange blob on the wiring harness is some kind of diode bridge that's in line with the thermal sensor on the radiator.

Problem: The one nagging electrical issue left in my comanche is a quiet turn signal blinker and a synchronized blink of the radio backlight. My MJ came with a rats-nest in the center DIN slot as it was clipped off by the PO. He must have used an aftermarket set. I rewired it up for a stock radio connector. I noticed that the main gnd for the radio was melted and I removed as much of that wire as I could find. I added in a new gnd wire from C102 location (driver footwell) to the radio spade connector. My stock radio now functions well, but the backlight on the radio slightly dims with the blink of my turning signal. The backlight doesn't turn off, it just slightly dims. My blinker also does not seem very loud. Here's a video: Condition: - I have refurbished all the GNDs like the cruiser54 guides, except for the fuel pump ground. - I have not touched the c101 connector. - I currently have LED headlights, led footwell bulbs and incandescent bulbs everywhere else. - I refurbished the headlight connector 4 months ago with fiberglass pen and dielectric grease Troubleshooting: -I unplugged the entire front headlight harness via the plug and removed the footwell lights. The blinker sounds exactly the same, not faster or slower. This is essentially a low-load condition, there's no front lights being switched on/off when the connector is unplugged. -I removed the radio to see if the blinker sound changes. The blinker sound stays exactly the same. I'm not sure what's causing the issue, It's possible I wired the radio wrong, or that the melted gnd wire has shorted to another wire in the wire loom causing unknown issues. Otherwise, I'm going to check for any more stock duct-tape wire crimps in the stock engine bay wiring harness. I previously repaired 2 of them, but there may be more. Any other ideas?

Very neat teardown photos. Thanks!

Hell yess, an update!

OOooo So clean.

Aww yeah. Excellent use case

Thanks @fiatslug87 I got it for $65. I saw it 7min after you posted and offered. That's a steal in my book!

This I can toast to. otherwise, a very sad day indeed

Ugghhhh this is terrible. I purchased a bunch of parts from him a few months back, many I didn't even truly need because I wanted to somehow repay him for the invaluable information he's offered about renix jeeps over the years. It's also good to have spares. A true legend. What a terrible loss :/

Absolutely monumental all time classics

Thanks for the info. I just checked mine, its not rotted away it was just needed to be tightened up. no worries. thanks though!

Sounds like the beginnings of an excellent project! In case you were wondering what the rest of the sheet looks like, I scanned mine a few months back when I found it behind the passenger side door card. Now to just finish documenting my build lol https://salvagedcircuitry.com/docs/build-sheet.jpg

Excellent work! Looks like one helluva journey!

Before you go further, do you have a spare throttle body gasket? Since the throttle body has not been removed in a while, it will pull the gasket off and likely tear it. The renix 4.0L throttle body is only held on by those 3 bolts. If you have a spare gasket, just twist the throttle body slightly or just tap it with a rubber mallet and It'll come right off. You'll end up having to scrape off the old gasket from both surfaces.

Sounds like an all around excellent adventure. Excellent job

I just finished flushing the old grease from my wiper motor gearbox, added new grease and a separate ground. The performance is identical to before the work. I have the non intermittent wiper stalk. Does anyone know if the gearbox gear ratios changed on the new gearbox vs old? Seems like I wasted 2hrs and should have just purchased a 97+ motor.