Salvagedcircuit

I've been waiting to find one of these setups so I can CAD it up and clone it. The geometry looks pretty straight forward. It would be nice to have additional level of protection on that lil stainless steel rope wire crimp that holds the tire to the ratcheting mechanism.

Very Cool! Thanks for the photo I was guessing since I never saw the stamped steel valve cover before.

This is motivation to finally weld mine up!

Huh. I've never seen the inside of the HO version. It looks like some kind of sheet metal baffle insert that lines the entire top. Curious, are those plastic screw inserts along the perimeter of the HO valve cover? The HO one should weigh less if you are into weight reduction. I had to manually file my renix valve cover with a metal file and wet stone because the aluminum casting left a very poor edge quality from factory. The valve cover left a substantial indent in the nice $40 felpro reusable gasket. I had to grab another. I am curious too what other folks have to say!

From the REM manual, it states So I'd have to short the pressure switch worst case if nothing else works after all my tests. If I do this with the vehicle running and AC set on, it should kick on on the clutch and start the compressor temporarily. If it does not, the switch can be toast. I think you're right on the money about the fill port. The gauge on the A/C fill can showed "filled" within 3 seconds of plugging it in and pressing the trigger. Refilling A/c is not that quick. I'll try opening the valve first then filling it again. If it fills, then I'll try the A/C again. If it does not blow any cold air, I'll try jumping the pressure switch. I have a spare pressure switch and some O-rings on order. The A/C parts I ordered: - Four Seasons 38901 Expansion Valve - Four Seasons 35758 Low Cut-Out Pressure Switch Thanks

Looking for Tan seat belts. Passenger and driver side. Bonus points if you have the mating clips. Can paypal. Was going to buy new seatbelts, but don't want to wait 4 weeks for someone to create them. Thanks a ton -Anthony

You sir, are the right kind of bonkers! Excellent build. Well deserved!

Yeah, I'm going to replace the relays. When tested externally, one of them seems to be slightly slower than the others, but they seem fine otherwise. They had a good run. Stamped 1987, made in England. Quality Checked by the Queen herself

I'm thinking of making a clasp so I can put it on the keychain. maybe brass.

Excellence has arrived Many thanks to @fiatslug87 I would not have grabbed this if you didn't post it!

My Mj did not have functioning AC on purchase. The AC compressor wires were spliced 5 times which I replaced. I believe it's wired correctly now, but not 100% sure. There is no inline diode as shown in the electrical diagram in the 88 electrical manual. I spent time this weekend troubleshooting and it turned out my ac compressor clutch coil was completely shorted. I have replaced the ac compressor clutch and coil and recharged the low side of the system with a walmart ez-chill recharge kit. Surprisingly, the small gauge on the bottle shows the system is holding pressure, which is wild considering the front condenser looks very old and toasty. Unfortunately, the A/C compressor clutch never engages and the engine rpm never falls indicating there's a load from the A/C compressor. I tested the ac clutch separated from the comanche with a 12v variable power supply. The new clutch engages fine. I have an REM Renix module. It states "off A/C" which means the clutch signal is not active and the ECU is not allowing the A/C Compressor to activate. I have "max ac" on and the dial all the way to cold. It looks like there is an additional "REQ" setting for A/C diagnosis that I did not check yet. Tested: -A/C compressor clutch shorted (checked with multimeter) -no 12v signal to the compressor when max AC on (checked with multimeter) -A/c compressor never comes on, even after recharge and new clutch. -new A/C compressor clutch freewheels smoothly What I did: -new AC clutch. spacing within service manual tolerance. -new AC compressor wiring -recharged system Possible Culprit: -Failed Pressure switch -I accidentally removed the air temp sensor from the driver side engine bay. I think A/C system needs this? -ac expansion valve? -compressor has failed? Let me know if you guys have any input. I'm very new to A/C systems. Thanks!

Yep. Hk7 kit includes the o-rings. I think they are green in color. They are absolutely essential. These are gas-resistant o-rings, you cannot use hardware-store o-rings they will not work. Good luck with it!

You might find this thread helpful: I used the standard motor products HK7 fitting. It worked great.

I just checked. Yes, the radio LCD blinks when the hazard lights are on, just like above. The radio lcd blink is slightly less noticeable though. Well, I was hoping I wouldn't find these. More Duct-tape crimps. I originally thought this was PO work, but I remember reading threads about duct-tape crimps. I wonder how long amc / jeep did this. I finally figured out that orange blob on the wiring harness is some kind of diode bridge that's in line with the thermal sensor on the radiator.

Problem: The one nagging electrical issue left in my comanche is a quiet turn signal blinker and a synchronized blink of the radio backlight. My MJ came with a rats-nest in the center DIN slot as it was clipped off by the PO. He must have used an aftermarket set. I rewired it up for a stock radio connector. I noticed that the main gnd for the radio was melted and I removed as much of that wire as I could find. I added in a new gnd wire from C102 location (driver footwell) to the radio spade connector. My stock radio now functions well, but the backlight on the radio slightly dims with the blink of my turning signal. The backlight doesn't turn off, it just slightly dims. My blinker also does not seem very loud. Here's a video: Condition: - I have refurbished all the GNDs like the cruiser54 guides, except for the fuel pump ground. - I have not touched the c101 connector. - I currently have LED headlights, led footwell bulbs and incandescent bulbs everywhere else. - I refurbished the headlight connector 4 months ago with fiberglass pen and dielectric grease Troubleshooting: -I unplugged the entire front headlight harness via the plug and removed the footwell lights. The blinker sounds exactly the same, not faster or slower. This is essentially a low-load condition, there's no front lights being switched on/off when the connector is unplugged. -I removed the radio to see if the blinker sound changes. The blinker sound stays exactly the same. I'm not sure what's causing the issue, It's possible I wired the radio wrong, or that the melted gnd wire has shorted to another wire in the wire loom causing unknown issues. Otherwise, I'm going to check for any more stock duct-tape wire crimps in the stock engine bay wiring harness. I previously repaired 2 of them, but there may be more. Any other ideas?

Very neat teardown photos. Thanks!

Hell yess, an update!

OOooo So clean.

Aww yeah. Excellent use case

Thanks @fiatslug87 I got it for $65. I saw it 7min after you posted and offered. That's a steal in my book!

This I can toast to. otherwise, a very sad day indeed

Ugghhhh this is terrible. I purchased a bunch of parts from him a few months back, many I didn't even truly need because I wanted to somehow repay him for the invaluable information he's offered about renix jeeps over the years. It's also good to have spares. A true legend. What a terrible loss :/

Absolutely monumental all time classics

Thanks for the info. I just checked mine, its not rotted away it was just needed to be tightened up. no worries. thanks though!