Salvagedcircuit

Has anyone determined how to remove the lower driver side dash cooler line below the steering wheel? I've been paying with plastic and metal tools and I cannot get it to separate from the lower dash. I've tried pushing in the tabs, piercing from the back side and prying, and even using flat head screw drivers to convince the parts to separate. Nothing seems to work. I really don't want to break it. Does anyone know how to properly remove this? Thanks!

woah, are those original stripes? I've never seen that style.

Looking good

The duct-tape crimps may only be a 87-90 AMC building technique. The crimps either went away with the engine harness c101 connector removal in 1990 or some chrysler engineers checked themselves into a local clinic after analyzing the cherokee / comanche assembly procedure. Good luck with it!

Very cool! You may find duct-tape crimps along your wiring harness journey. They look like the attached photos. They are indeed stock and vary in quality. Sometimes there is a brass ring that is compressed around other wires into a but-crimp. Other times its just 3 wires pinched together. The crimps are usually tight but sometimes there is a loose one. I de-taped mine and looked for any corrosion. If there was none, I just soldered over the crimp. I used paste flux and 63/37 solder. I then covered with liquid electrical tape. If there were signs of corrosion / cut strands, I just clipped off the region, added heatshrink and resoldered. Most of these wires are small enough gauge that a standard 70w hakko / weller soldering iron will do the business. Don't waste your time with the 35w and less irons, they are terrible.

If I had one in front of me, I'd CAD up the clip so anyone could 3D print replacement clips and plastic solder em in place. Mine are sadly a few states over :/

You can probably plastic weld the broken tabs from the inside with a soldering iron. I have not done it to the caps myself, but I've had success repairing other plastic parts across the comanche with that method. Worth a shot. If you don't have the broken bits, CAD something similar up and 3D print it in ABS, then try plastic welding. No one ever sees it, so it does not have to look pretty.

That's a lot of work. Nice job!

Woah, what a find. I had no idea. I gotta hunt down a new 1990 photo. Thanks for such a keen eye! Added! Thanks.

Thanks for the photos! Now I know what to expect whenever I do mine

Yeah, I remember your post in the other thread here. It's cool to know it at least "fits" in the dash. Preliminary comparison tests for both radios: -idle power consumption (on, no output) -quiescent power consumption (display off, in ignition off mode) -output audio signal comparison (going to look into FFT comparisons or use my HP 3585A Spectrum Analyzer) -lcd brightness (need to determine how to measure, may need to grab a lux meter) -USB power rail stability -unit responsiveness during 12v rail instability -component datasheet comparison Let me know if you guys have any other tests you want to see!

It piqued my attention when I saw the lotus thread on it. It has a built in amp and AM/FM tuner, so going off the specs, it should be more than capable of being a replacement radio, but we shall see

I ordered both and will be doing a teardown and comparison.

AWW MANN That's one cool truck. I was considering a syclone and then I found the comanche, and I was like, I could get ~8 comanche's in dubious condition for one syclone. The decision was made off that. If I told you I didn't want a syclone, i'd be lying Does the syclone still use vacuum lines? Does it have duct-tape electrical crimps? If the answer is no to both, you sir, scored. Awesome ride man. It looks righteous.

Awesome shot! Metric ton baby

Ooooh Shiny. Looks great!

I know what I got! Hahaha. I bet once you un-seize the engine, it'll turn right over like nothin' happened.

Nice work!

Absolutely! I've been doing sections of my engine bay harness and the old tape becomes dust when touched. I've had difficulty in finding good wiring harness sheathing for the engine bay. The gardner bender stuff I get locally melts from the heat of the engine bay. I redid my o2 sensor cable and the knock sensor, and the split loom was not having it.

Lookin good! How do you like the flexon? I grabbed a 5 pack of tessa automotive adhesive backed cloth tape and used it to redo my fuel pump wiring harness when I found out it was partially cut. I also used the same thing when soldering up the duct-tape crimps that fill the '88 engine bay.

I ran into this guy the other day: Power-Acoustik-CP-71W. $140 Slightly larger than 1din, looks like it would fit perfectly in the pre-97 dash's. Specs: 6.5" touchscreen LCD, 960x480 resolution -AM + FM -bluetooth 5.0 -OS unknown -ram unknown -internal storage unknown I have no idea who Power Acoustik is, but it seems like they make radios that look eerily similar to clonezone market radios. Their entire product line reflects this. Even though the CP-71W looks like a clone product, the specifications and enclosure are different. It's almost as if Power Acoustik found a Shenzhen clone vendor, asked for a slightly different variant, and had it produced in quantity. Maybe Power Acoustik is just focusing on providing a better software interface? Power Acoustik is a walmart exclusive as well, which is rather strange. I think it's worth investigating. Mainland China 6.86" Radio. $30-40 on aliexpress, $50-80 on amazon: Specs: -6.86" touch screen, 1280*480 resolution -4ch, 45w output per channel -FM -AM? -wifi bluetooth -1gb, 2gb, or 4gb ram, depending on weekday -32gb emmc storage? -Android 12 The clonezone units are dubious in quality. From reading reviews, they have every problem under the sun: Interference Tremendous noise above a specific volume. microphones that don't work. carplay, android auto, bluetooth cutting out after 5 minutes. 5-7min boot times. LCD swipes that can take minutes to register no customization. usb 5v rails that are not stable. FM / AM receiver that has terrible reception The clone units also vary from vendor to vendor. Some even run windows CE. I don't know how it's possible to produce a new device that runs windows CE in 2024. Windows CE was declared EOL in ~2010. Microsoft stopped producing licenses, killed the license servers. I am wondering if the Power Acoustik is a complete redesign from scratch. I am being a bit antsy here because the radio has complete access to your phone through android auto or apple carplay while connected. In terms of security, this is quite a risk. I'm debating purchasing both and investigating.

Awesome. I should replace mine all 'round.

Sweet!

Hahaha. I'll have to design the coin first

Oh man, the fender side markers make a comeback. Awesome truck!