HOrnbrod

Ouch...

Losing the interior dimmer light circuit isn't my idea of an upgrade. I replaced all the bulbs that are not on the dimmer circuit, but I want to control the brightness inside the cabin. I can't stand lights that are too bright, but that's just me I guess.

Can you do them in Chrome?

This sounds just like HO injector heat soak, but I've never seen that to be a problem with Renix engines.

... on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/86-92-JEEP-COMANCHE-MJ-REAR-SPEAKER-BRACKETS-USED-GC-BIN-NR/173361548513?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Have you crawled under and looked? Check the driveshaft and u-joints for slop. Check the gear oil level in your rear diff.

1996 was the change year from OBD1 to OBD2, but the 96 models still retained some of the OBD1 sensors, like the MAP sensor for example. The 97 models were full OBD2.

Maybe the OP lives in the Outback where the gas stations can be 100km apart, close around 8PM, and there's no cell phone coverage 50% - 60% of the time.

Very much looking forward to this build G - long awaited. Been thinking about the Hesco CPS kit too, anxious to see the install.

Yes, they are all 3-wire mag pickups and are tested the same way. As long as the wires match the function, it will work. Test for 5V and ground at the existing connector to verify.

^^ This. Always use genuine Mopar sensors if available.

I have to agree with this. I've always run Champion copper cores for decades in my Jeeps and would never consider anything else. But one person on this forum raved about NGK's so much that I gave them a shot a few yeas ago. They performed about the same as the Champions, but where they really shine is at idle. Much smoother and steadier, even with the cam I have. Plus when I pulled them at 2K miles or so to re-gap they still look new, not eroded away as the Champions sometimes did. I'm an NGK convert....

Maybe, but I know nothing about how the Chinese aftermarket sender you are using is constructed, but this works for the Mopar senders The sender float follows the tank fuel level up and down, and acts as the slider of a variable resister called a potentiometer. To reverse the voltage output polarity to the fuel gauge, you will need to unsolder the potentiometer output wire and resolder it to the other side end the potentiometer, so the fuel gauge senses the ohm output going in the opposite direction that it is now, i.e. hight-to-low to low-to-high. Then your gauge will increase when the float rises, and decrease when it goes down. Wether it's accurate or not, ???

The only XJ/MJ manual window regulators available I've seen lately are in the junkyard. They are NLA new from any source, OEM or aftermarket, unless John knows something that I don't. Which is entirely possible...

You can if you have a Hesco aluminum 4.0 head. Makes camshaft changes eazy - peazy.

That rig looks to have just about every aftermarket MJ accessory known to modern man bolted to it.

"An AC thermistor is a type of temperature sensor that is commonly found on modern AC systems. They detect temperatures and send a resistance signal to the AC control module so that the automatic adjustments can be made to keep the cabin at the correct temperature. As they are basically ambient temperature sensors, they can be found both inside the cabin and underneath the hood of a vehicle. One of the first signs that an AC thermistor may be having a problem is that the AC will only blow cold air for a limited amount of time. If an AC thermistor is not operating properly, it cannot alert the computer of the cabin temperature. Therefore, the module will not be able to activate or deactivate the AC so that the correct temperature can be achieved. This may cause the AC to blow cold air in short bursts, or only for a limited amount of time. Another symptom of issues with a thermistor will be problems with the blower. Some blower motors use the signal from the thermistor to control their operation. If a thermistor is giving improper, weak, or inconsistent signal, then the blower motor operation may be weak, erratic, or may not function at all. As the blower is what blows the air from the vents, any problems with the blower, caused by the thermistor or not, will greatly affect the AC system’s ability to cool the cabin."

I don't know if the above meter load tests an automotive 12VDC battery under load or not; I suspect it does not looking at the rotary switch positions. And yes, a battery can read 12-14 DC at rest and still fail under a start load because it can not deliver sufficient amperage due to battery calcification. Calcification can cause one or more internally shorted cells or plates depending on it's construction and the battery fails to deliver it's rated CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) to overcome the load when starting. Sometimes you can "boil" a calcified battery free, but it requires at least a 20A constant current charge HD hooked up overnight with the cell caps pulled for better gas venting and disconnected from it's load. And always when charging the battery overnight with any charger, disco the negative cable.

I read all the pros and cons about wrapping headers when I got my Mike Leach header back in 03 and contemplated wrapping or not. I went not and fifteen years later still no problems. It looks a bit crusty but I can live with that. I don't have a supercharger either; maybe I would have wrapped if I did.

He quit quite awhile ago Jeff...

Had a snake incident just yesterday evening. Heard shrieking coming from the garage. The ladies discovered a snake under a vacuum cleaner and I went to look at it. Turned out to be a harmless garter snake which I calmly picked up and carried outside while the wife and daughter were going bananas yelling "kill it!". Nope, he lives on to continue killing mice and other vermin outside the house. No such thing as a "good" snake to them. We live on a lake so there's plenty of water snakes, even the occasional moccasin and copper head at times. Gus the Cocker usually dispatches them, but he's getting older now and isn't as sharp as he used to be. He's trying to teach our new poodle the trade, but that little designer semi-dog wants no part of them. Little POS.....

Sure does. Nice detail work.

Why is the spare in the bed instead of under the bed?

For sure. The closest I've seen are these, in polished or natural: 5 lug 15 x 8.5, 5.5″ lug pattern.