HOrnbrod

Machine about a hundred of them. You'll sell every one in about an hour.... Here's another pic from Cruiser

OEM part number 6503520. M7x1.00x25mm (1" long). Good luck finding them....

For sure. I can't believe anyone would want to claim any rights over images of an obscure vehicle that 99% of the population doesn't even know existed. Much ado about nothing...

There's a better way. P/u a full gauge cluster from any 87-90 XJ/MJ and swap them out. It's plug 'n play. No rewiring, just stick it in the hole and connect the cables. Then swap out your coolant temp and oil pressure switches for the correct sensors, and you will have full gauges w. a tach.

Ah, okay. They look pretty good.

Were they leather Pete?

Looks great. Was the paint job done in Tecate?

^^ That's a good way to do it, but if your pressure and return hoses are still the originals it's a good time to replace them. Removing them makes short work of draining the system. I've heard of using ATF for power steering fluid but never tried it, so don'y know what the yeas or nays are for using it.

Fluid blowing out of the vent cap usually indicates a sticking pressure relief valve. Since your fluid obviously needs to be changed, try draining and changing it first. Clean PS fluid may free-up the valve w/o disassembly. If not you'll have to pull the pump, take it apart, clean it up, and replace any blown o-rings. Not hard - looks like this - only pic I could find.

The vacuum-controlled hot water valve was removed on the later XJs. Most people pull the water control valve, replace the heater hoses with 97+ hoses, then remove the water valve vacuum line. Makes for a much neater install and the all HVAC functions work as before. It does allow continuous water continuously circulation through the heater core, but and heat is blocked out of the cab by the HVAC doors. Unless there's a reason you want to keep the troublesome water control valve.

I had to look it up. There's no o-ring shown for either engine on the dipstick tube, but some of the later model dipsticks had an o-ring just below the handle. I use a later model dipstick and there's an o-ring on it.

No location, address, or phone number that I could find. "Futreca" doesn't come up anywhere as a legit company. No way I'd order anything from "them".

Those are $12.95 on Team Cherokee.

As I recall, that was the way my 91 was before I moved the vac canister into the cab.

Exactly. Burping never required in any of the six I've had. If everything is behaving as it should, when the temp gauge reaches 190* - 200*, the thermostat opens, the air is expelled into the expansion tank, the temp gauge drops ~20*, then slowly rises to normal operating temperature.

Up where?

Every time you disconnect the fan switch on the thermostat housing it triggers the aux fan 22 code. For me the only way I could get rid of it was to run through the ECU residual memory dump procedure. And it not the manual switch causing it either. I've had an inline manual emergency override switch on my aux fan for years.

Oh well, it was the thought that counted.

Try a restrictor like I did HERE, especially since you are using a Hesco hi-flow pump now. Easy to do and it really helped. I think I still have a couple laying around I can send you. Worth a shot.

She's crying for chrome mirrors and a chrome bumper.

Don't feel bad because you perhaps buggered up a job on your MJ. Everyone here has done the same, it's p/o the learning process. I strongly suggest you invest in a set of Factory Service Manuals (FSM's) for your 1991. It's the best tool you will ever own. I've had my 91 for many years and I always learn something from every job. Used FSM sets can be found used on Ebay for not much money.

mmmmm - chromed Ravines. Looks great with the rest of the shiny stuff.

As-is, with the bearing it's okay. Seems the OP got a lot of unintentional bum dope in this post....

Can you get the c-clip back on as-is? If so, then yes.