HOrnbrod

Almost don't count except in horseshoes, curling, and nuclear bombs.

I put a cut-down rack on my camper shell for hauling a boat. The rack was fom a Cervy Blazer, and it could be trimmed to a smaller size for the MJ roof.

The Mopar bed shims are NLA. The bed uses a 10mm bolt as I recall, so you'll need shims with a slot a little bit wider than that. They are called automotive body panel shims. Here's one place you can get them: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Body+Shim+U-Type+&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3ABody+Shim+U-Type+

Something like this, minus the rusty speed handle wrench and folding lug wrench.

Here's a good product that everyone needs sooner or later. NOS Mopar power steering pump - $76 shipped with discount. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-Mopar-NOS-Power-Steering-Pump-1991-1996-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-4-0L/382449998037?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Since you have a Camaro and an MJ, can't you measure them both? I'd sure like to know if they are the same lengths.

I think a fortune could be made selling a well-made well-fitting barn door bolt-on kit including interior trim to XJ owners. I'd buy it just for the uniqueness and to prevent splitting my gourd on the hatch...

Looks like your door outer weatherstrip is about due...

It was painted later on - see Pete's link. I do like it. Very much. Looks like how the factory should have done it. Except with a better paint job...

What's your location? Ae you looking for the US or Canadian DRL module version?

It looks like tilt column shifters are more common than I thought. And a useless feature that eventually causes problems, I agree. About as useful as an ECO light.

There were column shift MJs and XJs with tilt, but they were very rare. The only one I've ever seen (online) was in a 91 XJ Police model that had a front bench seat. So if you want tilt, you'll need to go to a floor shifter.

A guide table HERE.

Try this heat shield (p/n CBXCB060) below. I was getting some pinging and preignition on the stroker in the hot summer after installing the later manifold like you have. The shield was only three bucks from the dealer and it did help. I also quit using fuel with ethanol a while after doing this little mod which helps even more.

Is that a Grumman? I had an old 19 footer for years and loved it. Sold it a few years ago and got a more stable Alumacraft 14' so I could bring the dogs occasionally..

Ah - okay. When I had that mounting problem years ago I used the mid-range Wagner pads from Oreilly's. You could mount those either way. I don't see them anymore on their site; they were about the same cost and their house brand. I got rid of them later and went with some ceramics from Autozone. Those pads could only mount up the correct way. I really like them; no noise and no dust.

My son brought me brake best pads. I asked for cheap pads... So while diagnosing & repairing this problem I'm not destroying good pads. The best brake pads? They must have been Mopar then. Or maybe Brembo.

Interesting. What pads did you use?

Yes you can. Quite easily in fact depending on the manufacturer.

Agree. Probably stolen by some crackhead for resale.

I once had intermittent front brake drag and squealing that was caused by reversed caliper pads. 91-92 2WD's w. the combo rotor hub/disk use an inboard and outboard pad that are easy to install backwards. I know - I did it. HVAC sticking on defrost is usually caused by a cracked vacuum line up near the right front bulkhead where the hard plastic vacuum line passes through to the vacuum canister. The vacuum canister (round ball or football) is located behind the right front bumper.

Your link's don't work.

https://pensacola.craigslist.org/pts/d/jeep-comanche-parts-mj/6561500906.html Short Bed $50 Tail lights $100 Short Bed Tire winch $25

Happened to me a couple of times when I had my 01.

I guess you are trying to remove the u-joint from the driveshaft? See if this helps...