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USAFAGumby

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About USAFAGumby

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    Male
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    Pensacola, FL

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  1. I'm also taking this opportunity to start my new modification and maintenance log to this thread. Everything done in the rebuild will be documented and edited back onto this thread for my records. Frame flapwheeled and POR15 Eastwood interior frame coating Various seams welded Wheel wells cut and new metal welded in Bed sandblasted and POR15 with internal coat New bed mounting hardware and shims 18gal Comanche diesel gas tank XJ fuel pump JKS 1in lift rear XJ shackles Grade 8 spring hardware Hellcreek Metric Tone rear springs with 1 leaf removed ECGS SOA conversion perches, ubolts Rustys double shear shock mounts Yukon 8.8 c-clip eliminator 31spline kit ECGS calipers, rotors, pads, soft lines, and backing plates with ebrake hardware. Solid 8.8 diff cover Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  2. It's been 1yr and 7months since the truck went into the garage and it has officially met the halfway mark! POR15 the whole set up then duplicolor bedlined a top coat on. Solid rear cover installed and truck is officially turned around and back in the garage to start on the front half!! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  3. Under the truck!! It's about 8in of lift right now and I was shooting for 6in so I'm going to take one leaf out from the HellCreek metric tons. Those are 31in tires right now. Next is run the brake lines and weld on their mount tabs, pull it out, and paint it! The Yukon 8.8 C clip eliminator installed great too. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  4. Disassembled, cleaned, pressure washed and cut off the tabs and perches from the axle. Got around to mounting it up under the truck and tacking the perches and shock tabs on. I am pretty happy with angle. I got it straight to where the double cardon CV should be after the SYE is installed, about 1 to 2 degrees low for axle wrap. I centered the axle down to 5/100 of an inch from wheel base measurements. The pinion is definitely offset from the output shaft of the transfer case because it is a Ford 8.8, but from what I have read that 9/16 offset shouldn't cause binding or vibrations. Gonna have a professional come finish the welds, cause I don't trust my Hobart 150 to penetrate 1/4". Then reassembly with the Yukon axles, mount brake lines, paint and install! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  5. Back from my first deployment and have a ton of parts waiting for me. I got HellCreek metric ton rear leafs and new JKS 1" lift rear shackles installed today. The leafs are super beefy and absolutely would recommend HellCreek. They also have Comanche 4.5" lift springs for a SUA. JKS sent me one wrong bushing so I'm waiting on that, also the sleeves are probably exactly 9/16 so I had to use some force. The shackles flex toward the rear when I compress the spring they just look backwards in the picture cause they are hanging. Next stop building a beefy Ford 8.8! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  6. Finally installed the new comanche diesel gas tank. I used the diesel tank because it does not have baffles inside which provides clearance for the use of a stock intank XJ fuel pump. Next waiting on funds for new springs! If you want to buy the old tank or fuel sender unit off me let me know, the tank did not leak and the unit was working fine last spring when I pulled them.
  7. Bed back on today! Body lined up really well and the wheel wells didn't have any major warping which I am very happy about. I am a bit worried about the pushpins I used to hold the shims to the frame. The bed is resting on them instead of the shims so they may shift with time. I'll just keep tightening down I guess. Very excited with how the rear is coming along. Starting to look like a truck again!!
  8. I'm trying to keep the blue paint you see in the pictures, It's nothing specific just a blue that MAACO had at the time. If it gets too damaged during this rebuild I may repaint it but for now it is fine.
  9. So long since I have updated but a lot of work has been done. First I cut and welded in some new wheel wells. They are aligned the best I could but I suspect the bed sides will be crooked when I finally get it back on the truck. More fender body work to follow for certain. I was trying to save as much of the body paint as possible. Still worried about mounting flares. Then i sent it off to be sand blasted. They sprayed one line onto the paint on the side of the bed, but otherwise I am very happy with the results. Found some more pin holes that I welded closed. The metal may be a little thin but it isn't a critical spot on the bed so I think it is fine Finally the big day! First metal prep then 2 coats of POR15 on every surface I could get a brush on. I also prepped the cab side of the bed and POR15 that just like the back of the cab to get rid of all the previous red on the truck. I even got down in the tail light holes. After that was done I used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating with the 360deg wand to get into the frame rails of both the truck and the bed as well as under the wheel wells. I used 4 bottles total so several coats. I'm pretty sure rust will no longer be a problem for me! In a few days it will go back onto the frame with all new hardware! Hopefully it looks good and all goes well. Next step is springs and rear axle!
  10. Just ran into the same problem myself. They are bed spacers. I'm going to use this set. https://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-144-Piece-Body-Shim-Assortment/dp/B00YN6XZAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1529531084&sr=8-1&keywords=body+shim+kit&dpID=51bbAdsE86L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
  11. Anyone know where to find some new bed shims or what they are called? Ive looked for bed pads and spacers too and got nothing. If i can't find any new ones i might have to make some i guess. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  12. Very scary but necessary day today. Plan is to make my own wheel wells and make them smooth so even if there is rubbing it is safe. Also plan on going with the Notch Customs flares as I won't have to paint the bed sides since the flares go all the way up to the body line. POR15 on the bottom of the bed next after new custom wheel wells!!
  13. They are bushwhacker flats for a 2door cherokee. Fronts fit perfect but the rears leave a bit of a gap near the body line. Take your time and line them up better than I did and they will look great! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  14. Finished grinding the frame and bought a welder. Made a quick welding cart for practice and pretty happy with how it turned out! Didn't bother with the degreaser because I ground away so much crap. Used about a quart or two of metal prep and rinsed it off. The directions aren't super specific about how to apply it but I think the idea is to make sure any loose residue is washed off. Finally POR15 day! Used maybe 1 quart of paint overall for 2 coats so I would not recommend buying the 2 gallons that I bought but I'm super happy with the results. It dries almost paint gun smooth even though I brushed it on which I think is due to the curing process. Hopefully I did good enough prep work and I will have a solid platform for years! That last picture was about the worst of the rust which I also couldn't really reach an angle grinder in there or much wirebrush. The POR15 looks like it adhered well with all the prep I did and I believe two coats is enough. Next step is the bottom of the bed which needs significant rust repair, wish me luck
  15. Bought a pressure washer and cleaned out the frame. Evicted one old mouse nest and pounds of dirt and rust. Still some in there but I'm happy enough to move onto my next step. Next plan is to finish grinding down the rust to a relatively smooth surface. Then I'm going to weld some of the joints, suspension mounts and such for reinforcement. Not sure if i want to get the T&M frame stiffeners or not. Finally I'm getting eastwoods rust inhibitor spray with the frame rail nossle to get deep into the frame. Then POR15 everything I can reach. Any tips are appreciated! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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