HOrnbrod

Looks like Won Hung Lo got it wrong - again....

Sigh - don't care anymore..

Me too.

This article explains it pretty well. Pressure Differential Switch There's a lot of stuff going on in the brake combination / proportioning valve.

It's still a normally open pressure switch that closes when there is a loss of hydraulic pressure. What those pressure thresholds are though, .

What centering pins? There is only one pin, and that is 5" offset from the numerical center of the spring's length.

Depends on whether he uses a YJ prop valve or plumbs the F/R lines independently. If using the YJ valve, just one brake fault light is needed.

SB3824 ( 3/8 x 24) is the correct speed bleeder size for both front and rear. http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm

Why not have one sensor for each? Just plumb it in with an additional "T" in each line. It's just a NO switch that applies a ground to the dash brake light when it senses low pressure. You could even parallel the two switch outputs to the existing dash brake light. If/when it illuminates you know there's a pressure problem you'll have to isolate either way.

Adding a signature to your settings so we know what you are driving would help for recommendations: https://comancheclub.com/topic/51707-cc-members-create-a-signature-to-describe-your-mj/

Perhaps some states might not give a damn about the brake warning light on a 25+ year old vehicle but that's not the point. The point is that you can hurt yourself, your rig, and others if you don't know your brakes are defective. Removing the cat and/or an EGR system are not valid comparisons.

1. No, you can't swap gears from different manufacturers. Chrysler axles only fit Chrysler axle housings, Dana gears only fit Dana housings, etc.. 2. You can use the XJ 8.25, but you'll need to remove the XJ spring perches and weld in new perches for the MJ. They have different spacing.. 3. Regearing the MJ D44 is the best option I think, but re-perching the 4.10 8.25 would be cheaper. Both axles are good, but I prefer the D44's.

Yep. I'd want a low brake pressure switch plumbed in for sure. Would only require the addition of another inverted-flare "T" fitting or replace the existing "T" with a cross fitting.

Is that a hockey puck that you used?

You might enjoy THIS Gog. It seems they were only produced in 1993 and all had the 4.0.

Look for a tag on the diff cover and the gear ratio will be stamped on it. If it's never been opened up, there's a good chance the original tag is still there. This one is a 4.10. Other options could be 3.07, 3.55, & 3.73. The numerically higher the ratio, the better, especially for a 4-banger.

Forces of acceleration? The OP has a 2.5.

Junk. C.R.A.P. part.

Buying C.R.A.P. (Chinese Replacement Auto Parts) auto parts will yield crap results. Especially with sensors/senders. You will have to learn for yourself not to cheap out with C.R.A.P. parts; they will cost you more in the long run.

What size tires and what axle ratio do you have?

T0739789

Amen. I wouldn't want to be a cop in today's society.

Will do.