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About HellCreek

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    New Albany, MS

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  1. Hi, Sorry, I have been off the forum for a while. If you need a quicker response, our regular e-mail is tlaher@hellcreeksuspensions.com. To answer your question, all of our springs are made to order, but it only takes about a week to make them. MT springs are stock and have the OEM measurements. We have since adjusted the center bolt on the lifted springs to move the axle rearward. All of our lifted springs are the 1440 lb. capacity, which is just short of the 1700 lb. capacity of the metric tons. Thanks, Tom
  2. Hi, Pete, An extra hole would make a weak spot in the main leaf. That is the weakest place on the spring. As a rule of thumb, if a leaf springs breaks through the center bolt hole, it is because the u-bolts were not tightened properly. Thanks, Tom
  3. Metric Ton springs generally lift the rear of a non-metric ton truck about 1-1/2 inches. Since factory springs raised the rear about 1-1/2", this would result in your truck being about 3" higher in the rear. They sell for $387.96 each, less the 10% club discount. Thanks, Tom
  4. As you can see from the 97-571 print posted by Don, the division length is 26" on the front of the spring and 31" on the rear of the spring. These are factory measurements on a stock Metric Ton spring, and also on all of the other MJ factory springs. Our division lengths on the 4.5" lift spring is 26-1/4" on the front and 31-5/8" on the rear - not that much different from the factory dimensions. My MJ, pictured on my avatar, has the prototype 4.5" rear springs installed, and they have the offset mentioned by saveevryjp1998 at rest, but, when the truck is loaded the wheels go back in the wheel well as they go up into the wheel well. That's the nature of a lifted spring. We could move the centering pin back about an inch, if everyone thinks that is where it should be, but at full flex, they may hit the rear of the wheel well. We are open to the forum. What do you think we should do? Thanks, Tom
  5. I have not been on the forum for a while, but I wanted to remind you that we are still offering a 10% discount to all Comanche Club members on our complete lift kits and individual springs - in fact everything on our website. We have the following for MJ Comanches: 3", 4-1/2" and 6" Lift Kits. These combine our rear leaf springs with Rough Country parts. 3", 4-1/2" lift springs and stock Metric Tonne rear leaf springs All of our Hell Creek leaf springs are Made in the USA. It takes about a week to manufacture them after you order. To get your Comanche Club discount when buying on our website, just enter the code - ComancheClub - in the space provided on our 1st checkout page and click the "Recalculate" button. To get your discount by phone, just mention that you are a member of the Comanche Club. For you members who have Jeepsters, XJs FSJs or any other 4WD, we have kits available for those as well. Thanks, Tom Laher Hell Creek Suspensions, Inc. (662) 538-5676 http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com tlaher@hellcreeksuspensions.com 1989 Comanche 2WD Sport Truck 4-1/2" Hell Creek Lift 1991 XJ Cherokee 4WD - stock for now 1984 CJ-7 - 4 inch Hell Creek Lift 1986 Bronco - stock
  6. Hi, Virginia, I bought a complete pump and sender assembly, so mine had a pigtail with a plug that attached directly to the wiring harness -- no wiring involved. Dirty and Don, i removed the schrader valve from the rail, attached a hose and pumped gas into a coffee can while I cranked the engine. No problem there, but I removed the injectors and the fuel rail and flushed them anyway. The injectors were a little dirty, but seemed to function o.k. They shot a stream when activated. The rail, however was another story. When I flushed it, flakes of crud came out. It took a large can of carb cleaner to flush it completely. I reassembled everything, switched the key about 7 times to prime the system, and it started on the second revolution. I was thinking of adding a can of Seafoam to about 10 gallons of gas in the tank to finish cleaning out the system. Does anyone know if that is a good idea or of something better than Seafoam? Thanks for all of your help. This forum is AWESOME !!
  7. Hi, Don, Yes, the fuel pump runs then shuts off normally. The tank and pump and brand spanking new from the parts store. I also flushed the fuel lines from the rail back to the tank (with the hoses disconnected. Dirty, It ran when I first got it; then it sat up for about 10 years. The tank and pump were ruined, so I replaced them with new parts. What bothers me is that it will run on starting fluid sprayed into the throttle body, so I think that would eliminate, spark, timing and pretty much anything not fuel related. Also, on the starting fluid, it starts up on the first revolution, so -- not hard starting. I suspected the injectors were not firing so I got a NOID light set and verified that they were. It might be clogged ingectors, but all of them?
  8. I have a similar problem. I replaced the fuel tank and pump on a 1991 with a 4.0L. I have 30psi at the rail. The engine turns over fine, but it will not start. I tried starting fluid in the throttle body, and it will run only as long as fluid is squirted. I attached a noid light at the injector connectors and they are receiving pulses. Any suggestions? At first I thought that it might be the CPS, but it wouldn't run even with ether if there was no spark.
  9. I did a search and didn't find anything related, but I am re-doing the duct work on my Comanche, and I can't find any suitable foam material to use for the gaskets on the plenum doors. What started all of this is that my heater core started leaking, so I had to remove the entire dash and everything related to replace it, so I thought I might as well re-do everything as long as I have it out. Does anyone know where I can get some thin foam with an adhesive backing? On a side note, I am also having to repair the passenger window regulator (manual). I think I have found a source for the nylon tape gear, and I am going to try to just replace that. I will let you know how that turns out. Thanks in advance for the help, Tom
  10. Hi, Guys, It has been a couple of weeks now, and I would like to report that the problem seems to be fixed. Renewing the grounds and connections was a good idea, but I think the real problem was a weak CPS. As I stated earlier, the old one was producing a little over 3 volts, while the new one is putting out 5.5 volts. Thanks to everyone who helped on this, especially Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips. Thanks, Tom
  11. Hi, Cruiser, The old CPS did not look like a magnet with metal dust on it, if that's what you mean. The metal tip was a little rusty, but that's about it. I did not drill the upper mounting hole after I didn't find the ground splices, because I was afraid that might only apply to the 4.0s, and I didn't want to ruin a $32.00 part. Since I am getting 5.5 volts, do you think I need to remove it and drill the hole? Yes, I removed the braided strap and refreshed the grounds on that as well. Thanks, Tom
  12. O.K., here is the update. I have refreshed all of the grounds, including the tail light ground. I went back today and even removed the dipstick ground stud (aptly named by the way) and cleaned the mounting surface on the block and the back side and front side of the dipstick mount and the back side of the stud, itself and reassembled. I disconnected all of the electrical connectors and sprayed them with electrical contact cleaner. Also, my wife used to do ceramics and had a small, 1/8", nylon spiral brush, like you would use to clean a rifle barrel, only smaller. It was perfect for cleaning the female end of the connectors. You might find one at Walmart in the craft section or Hobby Lobby. I was going to upgrade the sensor grounds and remove the wire splices, but for some reason my 2.5 did not have any splices in the brown with white tracer wires. They were solid all the way to the dipstick stud. That may be a 4.0 thing. I checked the sensor grounds per Cruiser's Tips #5 and got 0.00 ohms with no fluctuations at all. On to the CPS. I voltage-checked it per Cruiser's instructions #7 and got 3.3 to 3.5 volts, so I replaced it. It's much easier on a 2.5 with a 4 speed manual transmission. I could easily reach my hand to the bolt heads while laying on the ground and didn't have to use an extension longer than 2 inches. I voltage-tested the new CPS and it gave off 5.3 to 5.5 volts. I hooked up everything and started the engine. It took the obligatory 4 to 5 turns of the crank shaft, but otherwise started right up. I'm not sure if the problem is fixed, or at least I'm not completely trusting it quite yet, since it would start sometimes before; only time will tell. I will post again after a couple weeks and let you know whether it is really fixed or not. Thanks for everyone's help, and especially Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips. Tom
  13. Hi, Cruiser, I was doing them one at a time so that I could pinpoint the cause. If I did them all at once, I wouldn't really know what the problem was or what fixed it. So far, I have refreshed the grounds and the coil connections. I am leaning on the CPS next, as 54bobby suggested. Since the engine was warmed up this morning when it wouldn't start, I can rule out cold start as an exclusive issue. As I said, I don't have a C101, so I can rule that out as well. I will keep you posted. Thanks, Tom
  14. By the way, What is the flat center terminal on the coil used for?
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