HOrnbrod

Disagree. You can get a couple of bucks for it at the scrap yard.

The wiper arm assembly is sometimes called the transmission. New motors are still available. Why are you asking? Are your wipers flopping around and over the windshield side moldings?

Dana axles from D30 to D80 all had 10-bolt covers.

Err, good plan.

If you ran different tire sizes front and rear it would work w/o generating much diff-killing heat. For example with a 3.07 front ratio axle w. 27" tires and a 3.73 rear ratio axle w. 33" tires, calculated engine RPM would be 2483 RPM vs. 2469 RPM, a difference of only 14 RPM. I think you could run forever with no problems that close.... Would look funny though unless it was a gasser..

Looks like you done good Griff. Congrats and welcome to the club.

If you didn't buy it, it looks like it's gone..

THIS is what I did. Works great.

Yes, Mr. Old Man Emu hisself. I tested a bunch of grilles, but eventually settled on the 10-slot.

Marchals for me.

Ah, I see. Very cool.

You're like a kid in a rust-free candy store.

The Hella 500s are very popular for the "rally" car driver look, like on BMWs, Austin Healys, etc. They should sell quickly.

That valve on the bottom of the airbox is the hot air intake for cold starting. As the engine warms up, it's supposed to open and allow cold outside air into the airbox and filter. I don't know how you have it rigged up now, but it looks like you are sucking hot air from the engine bay all the time now. The hot air intake went away when the HOs came out..

I did. I really like this show, but though it was a lot better when Edd China was the mechanic guy. He got much deeper into details and you could actually learn something when watching. The new guy is an actor playing a mechanic.

The 500's look too large for an XJ/MJ IMO. Mo betta are the Marchal 750's like Mike (Fiatslug87) has..

M10x1.50x30.00

Very cool - haven't seen those before. Thanks Greg. Now I have to find a set in gray or black.

Had an interesting electrical problem that was a bit weird so I'm posting it up so no one has the go through the same ordeal. I'd been burning more fuel than usual for the last couple of weeks, and had a sketchy idle. Plugs were due, so I changed them out - no help. Finally checked for fault codes, and I was getting a code 22, "Coolant sensor or circuit. Check temp sensor and wiring". The sensor involved that causes this code is the one on the thermostat housing that sends coolant temp data to the ECU. I had a new Mopar sensor, stuck it in, cleared the codes, and drove it for a couple of days with no improvement. Same damn code 22. Pulled the 60-pin ECU connector and checked for continuity from the sensor connector to the ECU and all was well. Then measured the sensor resistance across the sensor pins, connector off, both with a cold engine and then at operating temperature, resistance changed as it should within specs. WTF?? Happened to glance in the 2-wire connector on the sensor harness, and one of the female pins was recessed just a tiny bit more than the other, just enough so that it wasn't making good contact with the sensor male pin. Luckily I had another connector, spliced it in, cleared the codes again, and the problem was gone. Moral: Check the physical connection to the sensor first. If you suspect an air gap problem, replace/repair the sensor connector.

They be the same.

How did you do that John? Pics?

Off Topic: Frank, what's the story on your avatar? An underwater Boston Terrier?

Two quarts is correct. It looks like the cover has never been off, and the original tag is still there. Do you know the gear ratio? Be sure to verify it by counting the ring and pinion teeth when you pull the cover for future reference.

No, not the MT package. It has the standard 3+1 springs.

What happened to the original steel lines from the tranny?