DirtyComanche

So it's been 2 weeks or so, did you get your tank? And did it fit?

Are you going to buy some preformed floor pans or just make them?

Many have an arrow on the fuel gauge.

I think you can squeeze a 2.5L overflow bottle in by the airbox... Looked like a clean option, although I have been unable to confirm that it definitely fits with the factory 4L airbox. To me it makes zero sense to have the overflow up at the firewall like that (my MJ has a random bottle there from something, I hate it). Likewise using the 91-96? HO versions doesn't work well because it goes where the coil/ICM is on a Renix. The later one (97+?) is also stupid because it goes up by the blower motor or something and is just goofy by nature, plus you've got things that will be in the way already.

I'd paint it first and then bedline it. As to if you want to go over the rails, or to them, that's up to you. I'd go over, personally, but some people don't like the look.

Why? And how did you actually do it?

The reality is this isn't a 300+HP truck. I'd throw those 3.55 axles in. If you can find a set of 4.10 axles, sure, that might make sense, but not if it's a lot of money. If you're thinking about a rear axle swap/upgrade this is the time to do it. I don't know what size tires you have, but most likely going from them to 31s (which probably measure 30.5") will still be an improvement when going to 3.55 from 3.07 gears. Otherwise get used to downshifting to 4th when needed. Contrary to the oft repeated belief on many Jeep related forums, the transmission in a Jeep has multiple gears with the intention that in high load situations it will allow you to downshift and extract more power from the engine, and then allow you to again upshift when the loading is decreased. I know, the banhammer should swing and I become an unperson for dare saying such, but it must be said. The upgraded (Volvo) injectors may make a small difference, but IMHO you're more likely to see other improvements (easier starting, cleaner idle, slight fuel economy increase) rather than any butt-dyno certified power increase. They're worth it regardless and I meant to order another set of them, thanks for reminding me. Swapping to a bigger throttle body will help. I don't know about the intake. My XJ has a HO intake and TB on it, and I ported the TB, but the HO intake really doesn't line up that well on the Renix head so it's hard to say what the gains are there. I wound up doing a minimalist port match job on the intake, but without a dyno or flowbench you're just guessing at if you helped anything or not, and the end result left me less than warm and fuzzy feeling about the amount of gasket contact around the intake. There is some options if retaining the Renix intake, this guy did a vortec 4.3L throttle body swap: http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f64/throttle-body-swap-renix-70mm-6236/ A proper exhaust with a decent flowing muffler is worth a few ponies, especially if whatever is on there is half plugged. Another thing is the actual airbox doesn't have a big enough opening in it to flow nicely. Personally I'm a fan of cone filters and tossing the whole airbox in the trash, but some people prefer to keep it. Just make sure you run a quality filter either way, no oiled K&N type crap (unless you don't care that much about your engine, I admit there is an Edelbrock one on my XJ, but it's on the list of things to be replaced).

The body/chassis harnesses are not directly interchangeable. However it's pretty easy to modify an XJ one to work. I would pick it up of the price is right.

I want to do something similar. What rad are you using? And can you get an intercooler to fit?

Silly. But if it works for them...

But is legal to buy aftermarket lift pieces, etc?

Check the fusible link between the alternator and the ignition relay.

A renix will run without a battery providing the alternator is good. Won't comment on a HO. You've got issues and without a multimeter there is nothing to tell you beyond checking all connections for tightness and lack of corrosion or contamination.

I installed a set of Hanneman fenders on a Toyota. They're real people. Fit was pretty decent, but there was definitely some screwing around to get everything lined up, and some sanding and filler was needed just to make it look reasonably correct. It was painted over with bedliner, I forget what type (probably Hippo because it was tinted purple, and that's about the only tintable liner I can get locally), so that hid the majority of the imperfections. If you want it to be factory quality you're going to be in for a lot of work.

Looks to me like the rear flares are several inches short of extending to the bottom of the sheet metal -- which is exactly what I expected. I guess your definition of "fits just fine" is different from mine. Yeah, that bugs me. It's really too bad somebody wouldn't make some bigger flares, XJ guys that have cut out their wheelwells more would probably buy them too...

I can look for a P/N later if I have time. It's a very generic switch, looks the same on my 76 K truck as on the 2014 Silverado I was under the dash of last week.

If you don't have the spacer it just makes your pedal a bit higher... Depending if you're into that sort of stuff, it might be what you want. Oh, you'll have to roll the lip on the firewall too, but that's a 5 minute mod even to do it nicely. Since you have a Renix be prepared to bojang all sorts of stuff to make the brake light switch operate correctly. It's a very umm, odd, mechanism that it works on. Basically the end of the push rod needs to be ground flat, but you have to get that accurate to about 10 thou or it either won't put the brake lights on, or they will stay on constantly... And the switch isn't really adjustable. I ground mine very carefully and only had to do a little fiddling with the non-adjustable switch, many guys wind up grinding too much and resort to using aluminum/stainless tape to build the surface back up. I know other guys have gone to generic ('GM style') switches to avoid the hassle, and it's probably the route I would take if I ever do it again.

Looks good, glad to see it's out driving around. I rolled the edges of my cut fenders rather than using the trim material. It gave the fenders some rigidity back that way, otherwise they seem to flap in the breeze a bit.

There's probably a seized cable or 3 and somebody disconnected it.

Actually the chrome door handles rust slower than the plastic ones... There's a full XJ set in the boneyard I'm going to snag if it warms up when I have time.

You'd be jealous if he had ordered that stuff in chrome. :dunce:

Ditching the carburtooter for something designed less than a century ago is the real answer. But yes, I'd rather a manual choke with a cable... But I guess a customer might not agree.

I didn't do much. I did swap the dead steering stabilized for what I think is actually a TJ one, which at least isn't completely shot (actually looks to be low miles). Then I took the rear end apart to install the Zip locker (P/N YZLD44-3-30)... And surprise surprise, Yukon did what they're known for, and they drilled it for 7/16" ring gear bolts. 95% of 'normal' D44 applications use 3/8". Viper, Corvette, TJ Rubicon (which comes with a locker) and Rocky Mountain D44s, some aftermarket thick gearsets and gearsets packaged with "Super 44" kits also use 7/16" bolts, and I do believe this would be 5% of applications or less given the D44 has been in production since the late 60s. JKs also use 1/2" bolts, but the gears are different too so it's not really relevant. What's annoying about this is that originally they did not drill them to 7/16", and at some point in time (probably recently) changed to doing so. Thus their instructions clearly state that IF you have a ring gear that takes 7/16" bolts, you must drill the carrier to 7/16". I read the instructions prior to purchasing, and thus was very much lead to believe it would be drilled for the normal 3/8" ring gear bolts. Also, the vendor who I ordered from didn't mention it, as I don't think he knew, nor did he have the note on his site (because again, I don't think he knew)... Now if I had bought it from Randy's there was a note that you would need sleeves for the bolts that I may or may not have seen. 10 sleeves at $9.something list price each. So, $90 in sleeves that almost everybody is actually going to need to install this locker, which certainly cuts into the economics of purchasing it VS an ARB/OX/Elocker. IMHO they should have included the sleeves standard, or dual drilled it (the Elocker is), or left it the way it was before (drilled to 3/8", if you're in the minority that needs 7/16" you have to drill it yourself). Anyways, price notwithstanding (I think I wound up paying $4~ each for the sleeves through my dealer, he may or may not have felt bad for me) the whole thing is a typical Yukon PITA. It's also 2 weeks to get parts to me assuming they are actually shipped same day. The only good thing was since I had the axle apart and had time, I pulled the pinion out and found the inboard bearing was pretty much thrashed, so I replaced the bearings and the seal. And I bought new wheel bearings/seals. So the axle is going to have mostly new stuff in it at this point. Hotdog in a hallway:

How are those XJ seats for height with the tubing to adapt them to the MJ rails? Rather high?

Relocating that HO alternator is way easier than the Renix ones, definitely a worthwhile mod given you're going to electric fans. Who makes that header? Amazon or ebay special? Hows the clearance between it and the intake manifold?