DirtyComanche

A renix will run without a battery providing the alternator is good. Won't comment on a HO. You've got issues and without a multimeter there is nothing to tell you beyond checking all connections for tightness and lack of corrosion or contamination.

I installed a set of Hanneman fenders on a Toyota. They're real people. Fit was pretty decent, but there was definitely some screwing around to get everything lined up, and some sanding and filler was needed just to make it look reasonably correct. It was painted over with bedliner, I forget what type (probably Hippo because it was tinted purple, and that's about the only tintable liner I can get locally), so that hid the majority of the imperfections. If you want it to be factory quality you're going to be in for a lot of work.

Looks to me like the rear flares are several inches short of extending to the bottom of the sheet metal -- which is exactly what I expected. I guess your definition of "fits just fine" is different from mine. Yeah, that bugs me. It's really too bad somebody wouldn't make some bigger flares, XJ guys that have cut out their wheelwells more would probably buy them too...

I can look for a P/N later if I have time. It's a very generic switch, looks the same on my 76 K truck as on the 2014 Silverado I was under the dash of last week.

If you don't have the spacer it just makes your pedal a bit higher... Depending if you're into that sort of stuff, it might be what you want. Oh, you'll have to roll the lip on the firewall too, but that's a 5 minute mod even to do it nicely. Since you have a Renix be prepared to bojang all sorts of stuff to make the brake light switch operate correctly. It's a very umm, odd, mechanism that it works on. Basically the end of the push rod needs to be ground flat, but you have to get that accurate to about 10 thou or it either won't put the brake lights on, or they will stay on constantly... And the switch isn't really adjustable. I ground mine very carefully and only had to do a little fiddling with the non-adjustable switch, many guys wind up grinding too much and resort to using aluminum/stainless tape to build the surface back up. I know other guys have gone to generic ('GM style') switches to avoid the hassle, and it's probably the route I would take if I ever do it again.

Looks good, glad to see it's out driving around. I rolled the edges of my cut fenders rather than using the trim material. It gave the fenders some rigidity back that way, otherwise they seem to flap in the breeze a bit.

There's probably a seized cable or 3 and somebody disconnected it.

Actually the chrome door handles rust slower than the plastic ones... There's a full XJ set in the boneyard I'm going to snag if it warms up when I have time.

You'd be jealous if he had ordered that stuff in chrome. :dunce:

Ditching the carburtooter for something designed less than a century ago is the real answer. But yes, I'd rather a manual choke with a cable... But I guess a customer might not agree.

I didn't do much. I did swap the dead steering stabilized for what I think is actually a TJ one, which at least isn't completely shot (actually looks to be low miles). Then I took the rear end apart to install the Zip locker (P/N YZLD44-3-30)... And surprise surprise, Yukon did what they're known for, and they drilled it for 7/16" ring gear bolts. 95% of 'normal' D44 applications use 3/8". Viper, Corvette, TJ Rubicon (which comes with a locker) and Rocky Mountain D44s, some aftermarket thick gearsets and gearsets packaged with "Super 44" kits also use 7/16" bolts, and I do believe this would be 5% of applications or less given the D44 has been in production since the late 60s. JKs also use 1/2" bolts, but the gears are different too so it's not really relevant. What's annoying about this is that originally they did not drill them to 7/16", and at some point in time (probably recently) changed to doing so. Thus their instructions clearly state that IF you have a ring gear that takes 7/16" bolts, you must drill the carrier to 7/16". I read the instructions prior to purchasing, and thus was very much lead to believe it would be drilled for the normal 3/8" ring gear bolts. Also, the vendor who I ordered from didn't mention it, as I don't think he knew, nor did he have the note on his site (because again, I don't think he knew)... Now if I had bought it from Randy's there was a note that you would need sleeves for the bolts that I may or may not have seen. 10 sleeves at $9.something list price each. So, $90 in sleeves that almost everybody is actually going to need to install this locker, which certainly cuts into the economics of purchasing it VS an ARB/OX/Elocker. IMHO they should have included the sleeves standard, or dual drilled it (the Elocker is), or left it the way it was before (drilled to 3/8", if you're in the minority that needs 7/16" you have to drill it yourself). Anyways, price notwithstanding (I think I wound up paying $4~ each for the sleeves through my dealer, he may or may not have felt bad for me) the whole thing is a typical Yukon PITA. It's also 2 weeks to get parts to me assuming they are actually shipped same day. The only good thing was since I had the axle apart and had time, I pulled the pinion out and found the inboard bearing was pretty much thrashed, so I replaced the bearings and the seal. And I bought new wheel bearings/seals. So the axle is going to have mostly new stuff in it at this point. Hotdog in a hallway:

How are those XJ seats for height with the tubing to adapt them to the MJ rails? Rather high?

Relocating that HO alternator is way easier than the Renix ones, definitely a worthwhile mod given you're going to electric fans. Who makes that header? Amazon or ebay special? Hows the clearance between it and the intake manifold?

I hope he's still working on this. He started the build when I was on here the first time...

They still show up on ebay now and then. Personally I think for the price that this is a hell of a deal. I will not be permanently installing mine, as I have multiple Renix vehicles and see it more or less as a diagnostic tool than something to play with while driving.

That tach is a total pile of garbage. Return it and get your money back, do not exchange it. And no, they do not come with an inductive pickup, but there is another P/N (for more money) that does.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/50450-my-88-swb/?p=526110 Boostwerks linkage is stupid.

If that is true and the XJ gauge will just plug and play, then it would only be a matter of adapting the XJ sending unit to the MJ fuel tank. The MJ gauge will plug and play with the XJ sender or vice versa, as long as your current gauge is a Renix one and it works (they're easy to test if in doubt) there should be no issues using it with a Renix XJ sender.

I could be wrong but I thought they made changes in manufacturing to all of their filters in 2012-2013ish? The problem with either blacklisting or enamouring a certain filter or oil manufacturer is that they periodically change the design, processing, or formulation of said products. Because it was bad last year does not mean it is bad now, because it was good last year does not mean it is good now...

A real glass shop should be able to template it and cut one out/frame it... Good luck finding a glass shop that good though.

The Renix XJ and MJ fuel gauges use the same resistance range (0-88ohms) and are interchangeable. Later ones use other values and will not work. I think there was a thread on here somewhere about modding an XJ sender to more or less work? Also, the Renix gauge is fairly close to the old GM standard range (0-99ohms) and thus worst case I would believe generic GM parts could be used with either the gauge reading a little past full, or if the sender arm was bent correctly it might not be noticeable.

And this... Without knowing what is wrong I don't know what to say. If the sender is BER then it's a problem, everything else is either a wiring issue or you can steal a gauge from a junkyard. And somebody could correct me if I'm wrong, but the MJ sender assembly can be repaired using an XJ sender, you will just need to do some fabricoddling.

That cable I linked you is for a 90 model year and there would not have been a Peugeot option then. I have never tried that cable so if it doesn't work I would recommend sending it back and ordering the one I linked for the 88. The 88 one is longer than the stock cable and fits with an AX-15, it is the one I used in my 88, and will actually fit an 87-90. For some reason Rockauto does not list it as fitting a 90 though.

The D20 is pretty weak, much weaker than a NP231. And if you flip it, it will leak. I would not swap to one. Twin sticks is a fairly overrated mod IMHO, and that would be the only upside in your application.

And to answer the fuel gauge question I would ask first what you actually have on hand.