DirtyComanche

Well? (Rather than the typical "What are you getting your SO" thread :rotf: )

You can buy rebuild kits or new ones and transfer the seals. If you're careful :D Rebuild kits won't help much if he snaps off a bleeder screw in the caliper. That's what an easy-out is for. Or weld a nut onto the broken bleeder... I've broken more than a few off and never trashed a caliper because of it.

If there's one thing I'd pull the bulb out of, it's that...

The 2dr XJ ones are smaller.

As long as you're careful you should be able to get the axleshafts in with a minimal amount of crap stuck to them. I always put a little light grease on the splines and seal surface as they will slide through the seal easier and be less likely to tear it.

Sucks about the tailgate and bumper. I can't stand having a manual transmission without a good working parking brake anymore, too easy to have that sort of stuff happen.

This is a pretty common swap in 'the rest of the world.' Curious if anyone has done so on the MJ/XJ platform and what problems they ran into? I seriously need to upgrade my brake booster, but just going out and doing something that's proven and easy would be boring... Plus I can probably snag a hydroboost and master for very little money from the 'yard. Nope, I haven't done even the most basic of research such as to check the MC bore size or what other MCs bolt to it, but I will later tonight.

I think I went back and forth on this. It appeared to not really matter at the end of the day. In my XJ I hooked the front chamber to the front of the prop/distribution valve, which would be for the rear brakes. I don't recall having to file anything to get my van MC to fit, but who knows, I did buy a previously enjoyed booster to bolt it to, so it's hard to say what is what. I have often stated that there is not one single part on that rig that actually bolted on without modification, and I suspect it was the same in this case.

I used the van one, looks identical to that, but it wasn't really an available part in my neck of the woods. If that one works the same it would be good to know for the future, since I can probably buy one locally instead of having to order it out of the US.

That's the 2500 van master cylinder then? That prop valve is very slick, I might have to buy one.

The HEI is much more simple. You don't need anything but one wire to run it.

You should do the Cruiser tips for the ground cleanups/upgrades/etc and probably even bypass the stupid bulkhead connector too. They cost almost nothing to do and will probably make a difference.

It's pretty much how I get all my oddball adhesives/sealers/assembly lubricants/etc as liability has lead to almost everything having a shelf life. It works for me!

I ran a HEI, so not quite the same. I think you might be able to mod the CPS enough to get a decent amount of timing out of it, but that's about it AFAIK. If a guy wanted it to be dual fuel they could probably mod the CPS by leaving the factory sensor where it is, then putting a second one on in as far of an advanced position as possible, then run it through a high quality DPDT switch with shielded wiring. But either way you should be able to dump enough gas to it with a primer to get it to start. Typically propane doesn't start terribly easy, or has a long cranking time, because the regulators are demand based and it takes a while for it 'sense' demand given that cranking RPM just isn't that high.

We have a shelf life on it, so normally there's a little left over that is best to be used up elsewhere rather than pay disposal. It's extremely forgiving to shoot and will stick to anything.

I have been tidying up a few things. I got the ebrake cables installed and working. No pictures, but I had to mod the brackets on the calipers a bit to hold the Comanche cables correctly. Also, my 'splitter' bracket on the chassis was all screwed up and I had to weld part of it back together. Anyways, the ebrake is now working. I fixed the backup lights so they now come on when in reverse, and shut off when not in reverse. I found my JK? steering stabilizer. Just need to swap it on. I also ordered a Zip locker for the rear... Yeah, me stupid. And a little Viair compressor. My gas tank showed up. I was just going to slam it in, but it was unpainted (but coated in a preservative grease type goo), and I decided I couldn't just do it... It's very thin, already had a dent from shipping, so I figured I'd better give it a chance against rusting. Tank: Koropon primer and lacquer topcoat: I cleaned up the fuel level sender while I had it out, and I can now trust the fuel gauge. It's been quite cold but I've been driving it around and the truck seems to be doing okay. I'm not sure if the block heater actually works, and it has the wrong tstat in it so the heater isn't a good as it could be. Also the poorly welded door hinge/door trying to fall off is getting a little annoying, so put that on the list.

Get a primer solenoid. Mine had no issues starting on propane with one.

I can't possibly imagine demand for those consoles outpacing the supply. The yard here crushed most of their XJs about a month ago (he didn't call me first, grr), and I'm betting 95% of those XJs still had the console in them when they got crushed. The 3 he has left all have them, or did when I was there a couple weeks ago.

It probably won't change much noticeably. Your alignment might be a bit toed in, but extremely minimally. And you're going to lose a little bit of caster. You might want to buy some shims to adjust caster and check the alignment with a tape measure. But that would be being picky, at least by my standards.

The XJ Cherokee center console fits perfectly. I don't know if it's the same P/N as the MJ one or not, but functionally and visually it's the same. They're very easy to source. Edit, assuming full console. The half console is hard to find from an XJ, it's also the same though.

I'm very interested in how #2 works. I've been looking for another set of 2dr XJ seats, but they're pretty hard to find if they're actually in okay shape.

Might have been random. Not likely, but it could happpen. Nor is it likely that it was a 'Dodge hater.' You would have to be pretty much insane to sabotage a person's truck just because you didn't like the brand. So yeah, if the only person he pissed off was that guy, kinda makes it likely it was him... I find it odd the water sensor didn't pick it up before it detonated the engine. I guess a FASS with a water block filter and a locking fuel cap might be a worthwhile upgrade for the next one. The FASS is a good upgrade for any diesel, IMHO.

I have to disagree. The factory had so many problem with the donut spares and limited slip differentials that they long ago stopped using the donuts in vehicles with a limited slip. The limited slip vehicles always came with a full-size spare. The size difference causes rapid wear on the clutches. This would not be a problem with a TrueTrac, gear-type limited slip, but I don't know how that type would react to different size tires. Probably one tire size difference wouldn't be an issue, but a 33 with a 31 or a 30? I would be cautious about trying that. I meant to add "assuming you have open axles" for the 30" or 31", I wouldn't try that with a LS. Not even a Truetrac.

A 32" spare isn't an issue if you have open axles, or even if you're just limping a short ways with a LS axle. You could even go with a 31" or 30". The XJ donut spare was tiny, maybe 24", and there was no issues using it with the factory 28"ish tires as long as it was just to get you to the next town. I rarely find the need to change a tire on the road. Blowouts are just not that common, and a leaking tire can be limped, and having a basic plug kit and a cheap 12V compressor will take care of almost all road damage. And you know what, I have a BCAA (AAA) membership and I'm more than willing to use it, and I recommend anyone that owns Jeeps get one... Offroad is a complete different matter though, if you're going to wheel it or even just run around on the gravel I would recommend a real spare.

Any idea who makes this?