DirtyComanche

They're different because the ECM reads the output from the crank position sensor (CPS) differently Renix vs HO. I don't know if there is other differences or not.

Unfortunately none of the replacement tanks are plastic. I purchased a Spectra Premium steel replacement tank for my shortbox, and I feel it is of acceptable quality and will probably last quite well. I did go to the effort to paint it for added rust protection though. For a plastic tank guys have been able to use Dakota ones, however the pump and sender are different and it would not be a direct bolt in.

To do everything over again I'd probably just order RCVs. But then again, I like spending money foolishly.

Yup, vent line, it is important.

Looks like you managed to get it all to fit nicely in the end. Too bad the ZJ booster didn't work, I wonder if they're all non-adjustable?

I bought ZJ CVs because I had damaged 260x shafts. So far I like them but don't have a lot of miles or abuse on them. I think they're probably all around better than the 260x shafts and aren't a lot of money. Personally I would never bother changing a set of 260x ujoints. Junkyard some newer style ones, or buy aftermarket.

In the FSM there is instructions on how to make it from straight 30W and limited slip additive, they were aware that even at that time that the oil would be hard to source. That is the common method of dealing with it now. I'm not sure if it is recommended to try the 'identical' spec oils that are listed in the post Hornbrod quoted. I haven't changed the oil on mine and haven't decided what I'm going to do about the truck as a whole anyways. The whole truck is pretty terrible and has been abused by hillbillys for quite some time.

It's probably as good as it ever was. Somebody with a Quadrajunk will want it. Actually, if I was stateside I'd be sending you money for it already. Since I do have one...

This is for the bushing at the axle end, which is not changed out when going to aftermarket or WJ arms. The plan is to build the UCAs using junk I have lying around, so the frame end would be drilled out to a 1/2" bolt at least anyways as I don't have any poly bushings or similar that use smaller bolts. Bolt failures occur right after you get away from the flimsy U-channel setup, the fact they are so flimsy is why the bolts survive. No, I don't anticipate having a problem, but the JK bushings are actually cheaper than the XJ ones with my account discount, so if there's a (potentially) better part that's cheaper then why not?

Has anyone tried using JK UCA bushings in order to go to a larger bolt? Allegedly the OD of the bushings are the same as XJ/MJ ones, but they use as 12mm bolt rather than a 10mm. It would seem it should be easy enough to open the hole up a tiny little bit in order to then run a 1/2" bolt if one wished.

Metric hardware? It was pricey then...

I haven't bought anything yet but I think a booster upgrade will be in order... Gonna have to check Rockauto.

Well? (Rather than the typical "What are you getting your SO" thread :rotf: )

You can buy rebuild kits or new ones and transfer the seals. If you're careful :D Rebuild kits won't help much if he snaps off a bleeder screw in the caliper. That's what an easy-out is for. Or weld a nut onto the broken bleeder... I've broken more than a few off and never trashed a caliper because of it.

If there's one thing I'd pull the bulb out of, it's that...

The 2dr XJ ones are smaller.

As long as you're careful you should be able to get the axleshafts in with a minimal amount of crap stuck to them. I always put a little light grease on the splines and seal surface as they will slide through the seal easier and be less likely to tear it.

Sucks about the tailgate and bumper. I can't stand having a manual transmission without a good working parking brake anymore, too easy to have that sort of stuff happen.

This is a pretty common swap in 'the rest of the world.' Curious if anyone has done so on the MJ/XJ platform and what problems they ran into? I seriously need to upgrade my brake booster, but just going out and doing something that's proven and easy would be boring... Plus I can probably snag a hydroboost and master for very little money from the 'yard. Nope, I haven't done even the most basic of research such as to check the MC bore size or what other MCs bolt to it, but I will later tonight.

I think I went back and forth on this. It appeared to not really matter at the end of the day. In my XJ I hooked the front chamber to the front of the prop/distribution valve, which would be for the rear brakes. I don't recall having to file anything to get my van MC to fit, but who knows, I did buy a previously enjoyed booster to bolt it to, so it's hard to say what is what. I have often stated that there is not one single part on that rig that actually bolted on without modification, and I suspect it was the same in this case.

I used the van one, looks identical to that, but it wasn't really an available part in my neck of the woods. If that one works the same it would be good to know for the future, since I can probably buy one locally instead of having to order it out of the US.

That's the 2500 van master cylinder then? That prop valve is very slick, I might have to buy one.

The HEI is much more simple. You don't need anything but one wire to run it.

You should do the Cruiser tips for the ground cleanups/upgrades/etc and probably even bypass the stupid bulkhead connector too. They cost almost nothing to do and will probably make a difference.

It's pretty much how I get all my oddball adhesives/sealers/assembly lubricants/etc as liability has lead to almost everything having a shelf life. It works for me!