DirtyComanche

Where did you get a new fusebox? Or was it a junkyard pull? Mine is destroyed (clutch master) and I would like to do something about it...

Gonna order a Zip... As soon as my Yukon guy takes my money.

SBC priming tool should work. Or throw some oil down the hole and slam the disty back in, as long as the gears are wet it will probably prime...

If the switch is bad you may well not get power at that fuse.

It was buy them or completely waste money on replacing garbage 260x ujoints, or not be able to drive the truck. If they blow up they blow up, I'll order something else if it happens.

The CV shafts I bought are an alternate P/N to the ones that you have. There was factory CV shafts for early XJs with the NP228 or 229 or whatever it was. Rare. They were very small. And not good at all. There was a P/N on Rockauto for a CV shaft that fit 84-89, and I was concerned that it would be a direct clone of that early CV. Thus I bought the ZJ ones. As per the usual, more research might have answered some questions ahead of time about how the ZJ shafts would fit in a Renix era axle.

Is this it?http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=43525&cc=1181472&jnid=426&jpid=1 Looks like the right one to me!

There is generic versions of that headlight switch available. Rockauto has them for about the $20 range, I believe.

That style headlight switch is a disaster waiting to happen. But that's not the only thing that will get you. There is a rather poor ground on the cluster. If the headlight switch isn't as awesome, combined with the less than ideal ground, it will light the bulbs so poorly that you won't know they're on. Also, the 'circuit board' on the cluster can corrode around the contacts for the connectors and the bulb holders, this will add resistance and make it even worse. Again, they might actually be lighting up, just so dim you can't tell. Take everything apart and clean it first, bench test the cluster by powering the pins for the lighting, wiggle the bulb holders to make sure they have good contact, and go from there. Do the relay upgrade on the headlights either way. The stock setup is terrible.

It's unfortunate there isn't more 'hard' data on these things. I could have bought CVs that would bolt in from Rockauto (they're for the NP228 setup or something), but the assumption was that they are not as strong as the ZJ/WJ setup. I don't know about the HO era XJ/MJ CV shafts. I really do like how they run, and I could tell you right now if I was building a truck to tear up the street I would use these with a NP242 and a pair of truetracs... I bet you could hit the autocross and make jaws drop.

It's kinda out of the price I wanted to spend on this. It was recommended to me by another person though. I can get a low thrills Viair kit for about $300 cnd, which should have no issues filling my little tires or running a locker, so that's pretty much what I'm looking at.

These are cheap enough you could keep whole spares with you... Which IMHO is the only way to go with ujoint shafts anyways, because if you really break the ujoint you will wreck the yokes. I've been told that you can drive on these even if they're broken, but I'm sure it's like any other steer CV where it may lock up your steering if the wrong parts wind up wedged in the wrong places.

And at this point I think the only functional difference (for me) between the current style (sealed bearing) early unit hubs (to 89) and later (90 until they changed the brakes in 99 or 00, or whatever) is that they deleted the seal that I have an issue with. But I still can't really confirm that as Renix stuff is now too old for most people to care about.

The shafts that were in there were the weak 260x junk, and the ujoints were blown right up along with their being a good chance the ears were worn. It would be good money after bad to change the ujoints in them. I have no 297x/760x stuff around, I gave away all my D30 stuff years ago, so I'd have to junkyard or buy a new set of shafts. The ZJ CVs have NOT been tested in any quantifiable manner, but there is plenty of guys running them in ZJ (and WJ, same but different) applications with 33" tires and a V8, so they are almost undoubtably stronger than the 260x setup, and I bet at steering lock they are still stronger than a standard 760x setup. But most importantly they were in stock at my local parts place and for not a lot of money, which assuming I could just bolt them in and go made them a better deal than screwing around at the junkyard or waiting on a set of aftermarket shafts. Truth be told, having run them, they are smooth. This truck is NOT a hardcore wheeler, I think they're probably a good fit for somebody who is mostly on the street and is keeping to smaller tires and not super abusive use. Unfortunately they turned out to be a little less bolt in than I had hoped.

Works great in Arizona, pretty much guaranteed death this far north. I'd run a spool over a lunchbox/autolocker in the rear, at least I know the spool is always trying to kill me and is doing so in a predictable manner. I actually used to run a front spool on the road on my old MJ, again, it was nowhere near as haywire as a front lunchbox locker because the spool is always doing the same thing. I originally just wanted a Truetrac, but I have no contacts that get good pricing on Eaton stuff. So I'm at about $900 frozen pesos for a Truetrac, and $1200 for an Elocker, I'd rather spend the extra for a real locker given that. I'm getting my guy to quote me on a Zip locker, and I'm going to go measure for a Viair setup in a bit... Might start a seperate thread to see what people have for non-A/C pump OBA setups. I think he will probably come in at about $700 US for the Zip, which still leaves some room to buy an OBA setup and be at the same price as the elocker. Frozen air lines do concern me. At work we have a couple poorly fitted fuel trucks with air over hydraulic brakes, and they freeze up all the time. Great fun.

I like the stance, it just looks right. Curious why you didn't go to a long arm setup of some sort at that height?

You're making huge progress. Front axle is looking great, and nice job making the ram spacer.

Cage is looking good so far! I'll be keeping an eye on that. I've delt with DMR before, small world. He cut me an absolutely killer deal on some chromo D60 axleshafts and ujoints, less money than I would have spent just for the ujoints locally. :thumbsup:

Do you use it much in the winter? I'd honestly rather not install a cable also, comparitively the elocker definitely wins in the ease of installation aspect. But I'm guessing it isn't too bad. Do you have pictures of your install? Edit, realized you said "I would go with" not "I went with" - sometimes I skim and miss things.

I bought Raybestos ones that crossed to that Dorman P/N for $1.10 each, FWIW. They are about 1/4" longer than the stock studs.

So you think the doorman stud would be stronger than the Rockwell American 7000 lb ? Equal to or stronger, yes. No hard numbers to back it up, but trailer axles do not see torque loading with the exception of what the brakes apply to them. Typically trailer parts are junk. Typically stuff sold at PA is Chinese junk with 'American' sounding names to try to mislead you. No, I don't know where that brand is made, no I didn't go to PA and price them out or look at them. Also, you could not pay me enough to run a trailer ubolt on my truck. Same for most of the junk included in lift kits. For the record I was almost killed by a failed ubolt.

Dorman 610-449, for the record. Gonna go look at them in person...

Nope. They're not the same knurl diameter. But studs off a LP front axle are, for some reason. NAXJA says 2003 Rubicon, front or rear, should work.

I also bought some RE LCAs to fix the caster a bit. Plus the current LCA bushings were pounded. I think I should buy a set of uppers too, and the bushings for the axle side mounts. They're also pounded. Somewhere in my pile of scrap beside the shop is a JK steering stabilizer, or so I think it is, I'm hoping I can use it. All in all the thing is driving WAY better than it ever was before. Still waiting for a gas tank and some other small parts though.

I don't trust any of their trailer stuff with my life. Some of it is fine, a lot isn't, and I wouldn't be comfortable using a trailer stud in a drive axle application. There's already a set of adapters on it. The problem is because the disk brake rotor is a little thicker than the drum brake hat was, so I have marginal thread engagement on the adapters. It isn't going to fall off, but it didn't make me feel as warm and fuzzy putting it together as it could have. So true !! If it's not in the computer it doesn't exist. I had to go to NAPA and look and compare. I did not record the specific part #. Take current stud and a caliper with you and ask the guy/gal to go through the actual BOOK with you. (HINT: look for the old guy). I found 2 studs, one 1/2" longer and one 3/8" longer, with the right size and length (and diameter) of shoulder. There wasn't anything we could find that was Jeep or Dana specific and actually fit like I wanted it. I went with 1/2" longer because I barely had 3/8" sticking out with new wheels on it. Unfortunately Dorman made their online stud catalog into a pain in the @$$, so I didn't have much luck with it. I think the one place here will still have the paper catalogs for this stuff, and I'll probably go see them. 1/2" longer would be great.