DirtyComanche

The Renix XJ and MJ fuel gauges use the same resistance range (0-88ohms) and are interchangeable. Later ones use other values and will not work. I think there was a thread on here somewhere about modding an XJ sender to more or less work? Also, the Renix gauge is fairly close to the old GM standard range (0-99ohms) and thus worst case I would believe generic GM parts could be used with either the gauge reading a little past full, or if the sender arm was bent correctly it might not be noticeable.

And this... Without knowing what is wrong I don't know what to say. If the sender is BER then it's a problem, everything else is either a wiring issue or you can steal a gauge from a junkyard. And somebody could correct me if I'm wrong, but the MJ sender assembly can be repaired using an XJ sender, you will just need to do some fabricoddling.

That cable I linked you is for a 90 model year and there would not have been a Peugeot option then. I have never tried that cable so if it doesn't work I would recommend sending it back and ordering the one I linked for the 88. The 88 one is longer than the stock cable and fits with an AX-15, it is the one I used in my 88, and will actually fit an 87-90. For some reason Rockauto does not list it as fitting a 90 though.

The D20 is pretty weak, much weaker than a NP231. And if you flip it, it will leak. I would not swap to one. Twin sticks is a fairly overrated mod IMHO, and that would be the only upside in your application.

And to answer the fuel gauge question I would ask first what you actually have on hand.

For an 88 4wd: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2950014&cc=1179839&jsn=407 For a 90 4wd: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4218006&cc=1179996&jsn=464

And has said oil filter failed?

The hole for the EGR in the intake manifold is already the correct size for IIRC a 3/8" NPT tap. Or maybe 1/2". One way or another it's super easy to delete cleanly between that and using a HO header without the EGR bung in it. You shouldn't smell gas much (or at all) if you delete the charcoal canister and run a vent, just make sure you leave the restricting orifice in the line. My XJ is set up that way. But if you don't need to ditch the charcoal canister then it isn't hurting anything, as said.

The first set of numbers is for the main leaf, and they are the same for both version. Unless I'm reading that wrong. I'm not mikaz, sooooo...

I'm fairly certain I did that in my original truck because the driver's seat was beat up. I know I put many different seats in it when I had it, and eventually it had 2dr seats, but I remember it being way easier to find decent passenger side seats so I'm pretty certain I used one in the driver's position for a while.

There's a few of them out there. I don't need the performance of one (this truck will probably never see the swaybar unhooked) and feel this OEM style bushing will last much longer. I really only drilled the 12mm out to 1/2" so it would take the same hardware as the other end.

MEK or Winsol will kill the spraybomb. Winsol is a little hard to find, but much less harmful than MEK. If you use MEK please wear gloves, be in a well ventilated area, and use an appropriately rated respirator... I'm surprised acetone didn't. It might have just needed some soak time. Try soaking a towel with it and laying it on the area you want to remove.

No mention of the MJ or SJ/J-truck. Screw 'em.

I will look in the Haynes manual. The guy blew me off on Sunday, so I blew him off today. I'm pretty certain this isn't the parts donor I want anyways.

I'll take my tester, but my guess is there won't be any. Gut feeling is the pump isn't running for some reason. It's a very minor hit and I'm surprised that anything mechanical would be left not working, but that is how it goes.

Googling seems to indicate there shouldn't be one. If resetting the key does not allow it to start, something is broken. Hmm.

I'm going to go look at a parts rig. It's a 98 XJ. He turfed it into a fence or something in the snow. It will no longer start after that, has spark and cranks, no damage to the engine. The only thing I would guess is it knocked a wire loose for the fuel pump, squished a fuel line (doubt it), or there is an inertia switch or a cutoff coupled to the airbag sensors or such. If so, how would you reset it? I doubt I will buy it either way, as it doesn't seem to be a terribly useful combination of parts to me (header panel and driver fender is smashed, driver door might be dinged up, all are parts I would want), but he might go for a real lowball offer...

Get some pics and post up a build thread and we'll help you out as you go.

On a SWB the shocks are mounted behind the axle. That said, I measured mine and I really doubt it would work. It might, but it will be either super close to the axle and cause some discomfort, or actually hit it. That said it looks like the hole is in the frame for the third strap.

The strategy of overpricing the Wrangler seems to have worked quite well though. There's millions of them here. My hand gets sore from all the waving.

I've got 265/75R17s on mine right now, or I think that's what they are. 17" JK Moab wheels and 1.25"? G2 adapter spacers. Definitely wouldn't fit at stock height with those.

I highly doubt it will fit. The 23.5 gallon tank is the same in the front as the 18 gallon, but it's longer in the back and takes another strap. 18 gallon is 29.75" long and the 23.5 is 36.5". The back end of the tank will be into the axle... If it miraculously fits, do let us know. I kinda think that one is a rebranded Spectra Premium (or comes out of the same factory). All the other ones on the market are painted.

Depending exactly what gauge cluster and wiring you use, you can reuse most of the gauge senders and make the gauges work. You will need some NPT bushings and other pipe fittings, but it's not a terrible task. For the tach you can buy a signal converter, or perhaps make your own (the factory did it with a potentiometer). It's really going to matter what XJ harness you use, and other parts. Keep in mind the power window wiring/switches changes over the years. For the ignition power for the HEI I didn't use a relay, I just ran it straight from the ignition switch. That is how GM did it for a very long time and the switch/column is essentially GM stuff. A HEI MIGHT pull 20amps for a very short time during initial cranking, but they normally are only a few amps running. That said, you could run a relay if you wanted, but it really isn't necessary. 12ga wire is recommended, some of the aftermarket harnesses and pigtails are 10ga though, however GM typically only used 14ga from the factory. It's kinda up to you how far you want to go with this. There is a ton of wiring that doesn't do anything useful, or can be clipped back or cleaned up, especially if you go to a stone aged engine. Even on my XJ, which retained most features and a Renix injection system, I was able to cut out a massive amount of stuff, and that was without really getting into the body harness. One thing though, if you tear your entire dash out doing all this stuff, look at your heater core and maybe change it while you're in there. :idea:

This is already getting interesting. I'll be following along.

That whole bezel blew apart when I took it off this time and I glued it back together with ABS pipe cement. I'm not sure if that will hold up but I'm probably going to look for a replacement. I like the bezel but it's been abused and I scraped off 3 layers of different glue/silicone (none of which worked) before putting the ABS glue on it. Typical though, can't do one thing without opening a can of worms. :doh: