DirtyComanche

I hope he's still working on this. He started the build when I was on here the first time...

They still show up on ebay now and then. Personally I think for the price that this is a hell of a deal. I will not be permanently installing mine, as I have multiple Renix vehicles and see it more or less as a diagnostic tool than something to play with while driving.

That tach is a total pile of garbage. Return it and get your money back, do not exchange it. And no, they do not come with an inductive pickup, but there is another P/N (for more money) that does.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/50450-my-88-swb/?p=526110 Boostwerks linkage is stupid.

If that is true and the XJ gauge will just plug and play, then it would only be a matter of adapting the XJ sending unit to the MJ fuel tank. The MJ gauge will plug and play with the XJ sender or vice versa, as long as your current gauge is a Renix one and it works (they're easy to test if in doubt) there should be no issues using it with a Renix XJ sender.

I could be wrong but I thought they made changes in manufacturing to all of their filters in 2012-2013ish? The problem with either blacklisting or enamouring a certain filter or oil manufacturer is that they periodically change the design, processing, or formulation of said products. Because it was bad last year does not mean it is bad now, because it was good last year does not mean it is good now...

A real glass shop should be able to template it and cut one out/frame it... Good luck finding a glass shop that good though.

The Renix XJ and MJ fuel gauges use the same resistance range (0-88ohms) and are interchangeable. Later ones use other values and will not work. I think there was a thread on here somewhere about modding an XJ sender to more or less work? Also, the Renix gauge is fairly close to the old GM standard range (0-99ohms) and thus worst case I would believe generic GM parts could be used with either the gauge reading a little past full, or if the sender arm was bent correctly it might not be noticeable.

And this... Without knowing what is wrong I don't know what to say. If the sender is BER then it's a problem, everything else is either a wiring issue or you can steal a gauge from a junkyard. And somebody could correct me if I'm wrong, but the MJ sender assembly can be repaired using an XJ sender, you will just need to do some fabricoddling.

That cable I linked you is for a 90 model year and there would not have been a Peugeot option then. I have never tried that cable so if it doesn't work I would recommend sending it back and ordering the one I linked for the 88. The 88 one is longer than the stock cable and fits with an AX-15, it is the one I used in my 88, and will actually fit an 87-90. For some reason Rockauto does not list it as fitting a 90 though.

The D20 is pretty weak, much weaker than a NP231. And if you flip it, it will leak. I would not swap to one. Twin sticks is a fairly overrated mod IMHO, and that would be the only upside in your application.

And to answer the fuel gauge question I would ask first what you actually have on hand.

For an 88 4wd: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2950014&cc=1179839&jsn=407 For a 90 4wd: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4218006&cc=1179996&jsn=464

And has said oil filter failed?

The hole for the EGR in the intake manifold is already the correct size for IIRC a 3/8" NPT tap. Or maybe 1/2". One way or another it's super easy to delete cleanly between that and using a HO header without the EGR bung in it. You shouldn't smell gas much (or at all) if you delete the charcoal canister and run a vent, just make sure you leave the restricting orifice in the line. My XJ is set up that way. But if you don't need to ditch the charcoal canister then it isn't hurting anything, as said.

The first set of numbers is for the main leaf, and they are the same for both version. Unless I'm reading that wrong. I'm not mikaz, sooooo...

I'm fairly certain I did that in my original truck because the driver's seat was beat up. I know I put many different seats in it when I had it, and eventually it had 2dr seats, but I remember it being way easier to find decent passenger side seats so I'm pretty certain I used one in the driver's position for a while.

There's a few of them out there. I don't need the performance of one (this truck will probably never see the swaybar unhooked) and feel this OEM style bushing will last much longer. I really only drilled the 12mm out to 1/2" so it would take the same hardware as the other end.

MEK or Winsol will kill the spraybomb. Winsol is a little hard to find, but much less harmful than MEK. If you use MEK please wear gloves, be in a well ventilated area, and use an appropriately rated respirator... I'm surprised acetone didn't. It might have just needed some soak time. Try soaking a towel with it and laying it on the area you want to remove.

No mention of the MJ or SJ/J-truck. Screw 'em.

I will look in the Haynes manual. The guy blew me off on Sunday, so I blew him off today. I'm pretty certain this isn't the parts donor I want anyways.

I'll take my tester, but my guess is there won't be any. Gut feeling is the pump isn't running for some reason. It's a very minor hit and I'm surprised that anything mechanical would be left not working, but that is how it goes.

Googling seems to indicate there shouldn't be one. If resetting the key does not allow it to start, something is broken. Hmm.

I'm going to go look at a parts rig. It's a 98 XJ. He turfed it into a fence or something in the snow. It will no longer start after that, has spark and cranks, no damage to the engine. The only thing I would guess is it knocked a wire loose for the fuel pump, squished a fuel line (doubt it), or there is an inertia switch or a cutoff coupled to the airbag sensors or such. If so, how would you reset it? I doubt I will buy it either way, as it doesn't seem to be a terribly useful combination of parts to me (header panel and driver fender is smashed, driver door might be dinged up, all are parts I would want), but he might go for a real lowball offer...

Get some pics and post up a build thread and we'll help you out as you go.