DirtyComanche

At least you can swap the booster without bleeding it... Rockauto has a reman for under $100US. Or a new one for not much more.

Hmm. Canada might not have mandated it at that point. Honestly, I don't recall if I've ever seen a MJ here with a bench and headrests, but it's rare to find one with a bench still either way.

I thought Motive did, but it looks like they only make the JK ones. No comments on installing JK gears in a normal D30; I don't recall if it was determined to be possible or not, at the very least it isn't a bolt in swap. Reid Racing used to sell thick D30 gears though, but it appears they have long discontinued them. They might have also only been for LP applications, and who knows where they were sourcing them from or getting them cut. I'm surprised nobody else has stepped up though, but the JK market really is the only market for light Jeep stuff that manufacturers care for anymore.

The D44 is a good axle, and if you're going to spend money on a locker it would be the one to put it in. If you want to be cheaper and get a Zip Locker (mine was cheap, I will admit that, I have a dealer that works hard for me) then make sure you order the sleeves for the ring gear bolts. In my build thread I think I posted enough information that a guy could order a Zip and not have a terrible time installing it. There was just a few unexpected things, such as needing the bolt sleeves, and no information on wiring the switch for the air valve, otherwise it was reasonably straightforward. Look at the Ox Locker too. I ruled it out because of pricing given I did not want to run the cable shifter, but honestly I feel it is a superior design to the ARB and Zip because you can actuate it to the locked position with the supplied 'bolt' if need be. It is a very strong design and comes with a bulletproof cover.

Above comment was made assuming there is no actual leaks in the system. Leaks are normally easy to find, so I would assume there isn't any.

IMHO those symptoms point to the seals in the master cylinder being shot and bypassing when the additional 'oompf' of the booster is applied. If you REALLY stand on the pedal with the engine off/vacuum bled, will it drop?

Maybe in the US market? My 89 didn't, and it was definitely original when I got it. I swapped to buckets immediately because of the lack of headrests.

IMHO 4.88 gears are asking for trouble in the D30 (at least the conventional D30). I would stick with 4.56 if you're going to spend the money. Gear contact gets dicey at ratios lower than that with a D30. 37" tires are at the outer limits of what a D30 can do. With that in mind I would either suggest leaving the front end open, or a good replacement case LSD like the Truetrac. I would also suggest spending the money on a truss. If you really have money to spend then RCV axleshafts are a good idea, as they run much smoother than conventional u-joint shafts and that does somewhat alleviate stress from the front end. You will either need a new carrier or to buy thick gears to regear the D30. The advantage of thick gears on a stock carrier is they do not deflect quite as much as normal gears would on a stock/replacement carrier, likewise a Truetrac is a very rigid design and will support the gears well even if you buy the (correct) one to run normal gears. Thick gears are also generally more expensive than normal gears, and not all manufacturers offer thick gears. I'm running a Zip Locker (air) in my rear. Yukon did not really impress me with it, and I would probably not purchase another one unless the price point was unbeatable. An ARB is more money but my experience with them is they are a more complete/better product. It all comes down to what you want to spend though. Yukon products can be had cheap if you know a dealer. Eaton is much harder to move on, but ARB can also be found for a good price at the right time.

^^^^ Didn't know that. It always surprised me that they got away without them before then too. Still, doesn't look like the type of seat I'd call comfy... Having a screwed up back and all.

True. I'd probably even take it through the car wash every now and then. The current rig loses paint if you wash it, so that's kinda out. Although in all honesty, I'd still be running a Mobil 1 or Quaker State full synthetic in it. :cheers:

mine died within 5 minutes of running dry... don`t do it... That's a long time in terms of not having fuel in the tank... Since you're not going anywhere at that point anyways.

I'm sooo jealous of that guy that swapped in a 60/40 bench from (I think) a dakota. :drool: it looked comfy as all get out. MJ benches are, well, basic. Basic, yes, that's a word that could describe them. And no headrests. I'm not exactly a safety Nazi, but I'd rather not break my neck because somebody hit me from behind.

There is nothing wrong with the coil pack ignition. If I was doing a full swap (which I would probably never do) I would have no qualms about going to it.

As long as you lubed the o-ring when you installed the sending unit, it's about a 10 minute job to pull the pump... Not that I have any sort of leg to stand on when it comes to telling people that they should work on their junk.

00-01 has a crappy head, assuming it's a 4L, if it isn't already cracked (kinda unlikely at this point). Also the front axle is low pinion at some point there, meaning it is something of a downgrade from the other D30 options.

Good enough could be achieved at a much lower cost. Yes, there's a Castrol diesel 5w30 that performed very well, plus a couple other 'diesel and gas' oils. The Castrol oil is also a 'diesel and gas' oil, if you read the fine print. The next one on the list is an oil that is not DPF compatible. Diesel engines are typically much larger and beefier than gas engines, thus they have larger bearing/wear surfaces, and using an oil that isn't as good isn't a big deal, plus they are tailoring the additive packages to being DPF friendly and managing different carbon contamination/combustion byproduct issues. The diesel oils that actually score well are designed for much more modern or European style diesel engines, which are built lighter, run much tighter clearances, and see much higher point and thermal loading than something like an old Cummins 6BT. There is approximately 140 viable options that are better than the Rotella. Many of which are conventional oil, or more value oriented options. That's not exactly amazing. Is the Rotella going to be a problem? No, not at all, this engine is an obsolete design with large bearings and big clearances, it just isn't going to care one way or another.

Welcome. Not sure why you would want to go to a bench seat. They suck. If you really want a bench I'd look at something like the second row out of a minivan, most of them are narrow enough to fit, are actually comfy, and have headrests.

Sounds like DOA pump. Pull it back out and make sure the connections are good. Try driving it with a battery/leads out of the truck, but if you have voltage while cranking (8v is reasonable because of starter draw) the problem should not be with the truck's wiring (unless it is phantom voltage, which you could rule out by putting a light bulb across the pins or using a test light). They can run dry for a long time before overheating.

Fram redesigned most of their filters around 2011-2013. They were aware there was problems and they did eventually address it. The ones we would be using were included in that. The quality is now better, not amazing, but better. Both oil and filters tend to be redesigned or reformulated on a regular basis. What was good yesterday may not be today, and what was bad yesterday may not be today. Even with the crap Fram filters there was relatively few failures, just once it became known fingers would ALWAYS point at the Fram filter if there was a failure of any sort. I'd run one if it came down to it, but I prefer not to.

if I remember right, the 2.8 v6 MJs had a mechanical pump at the engine. And the resistance range for the sender will be wrong. By using the ZJ parts he will be keeping everything the 'same.' Personally I'd probably throw an el-cheapo electric pump off the stock tank and use it as an aux tank to transfer into the ZJ tank, but gas stations are kinda scarce around here.

Good news, the chances are those cheap oils you are using are fine, and actually are possibly better than some of the more expensive oils that people throw in the 4L. Any source on this? I find it hard to believe cheaper oils are better than more expensive. Maybe not worse, but why would they be better? Because guys use all sorts of weird stuff that isn't for a gas engine, or isn't the right weight (or even close), or race oils that aren't designed for long life, or has way too much zinc in it, or they throw crap additives in that are at best not helping anything. https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ Shell Rotella T6 ranks #162 on the list, yet guys love running it. Spend a day reading that if you want. I stand by my first comment that cheap oil is totally fine. He should probably be changing it more often, but the economics are totally up to him, and if his leak/burn/filter change rate is high enough will be fairly new anyways.

I hear what your saying but I just feel like it's a lot of work for something that comes stock in a jeep at that point it would literally be cheaper to buy a 4.0 Comanche and swap my lift and 4.10 rears over But the reality is that a 4.0L (or a stroker) swap is a LOT less work than a V8 conversion from another make. Yes, you can actually just go to a wrecker, or on CL, or the classifieds here, or even a parts store, and buy parts to do the swap that will just bolt on and fit. Once you do something beyond the OEM, you can wind up with everything being custom, modified, or one-off...

Good news, the chances are those cheap oils you are using are fine, and actually are possibly better than some of the more expensive oils that people throw in the 4L. Also, by topping up the oil and changing the filter, you effectively refresh the additive package, which does mean you can eek some more miles out of it before the oil has noticeably degraded. And you're in Florida, you don't even know what a cold start is, so no need for fancy stuff there.

What's it doing? Most parts stores can sell you the fuel pressure regulator, many will even have it in stock. The vacuum line might be a little harder, but I believe it is available... You can also make one using generic vacuum elbows and line.

I'd probably buy it and park it in the line of all the other Jeeps that need attention. YMMV