DirtyComanche

There's an extremely nice wooden topper on a truck that I see at Homodepot all the time. All curved surfaces and sanded perfectly smooth with some sort of hard gloss resin or stain on it. It's a cabinet maker or a finish carpenter that owns it, I can't remember which. I should snag a picture some time.

FSJ Network is the new IFSJA. IFSJA had some issues with hosting and the owners not really caring, so a lot of guys moved over to FSJ Network. http://www.fsjnetwork.com/ I've got a 66 Gladiator, 76 J10 and 76 J20, they're all pretty rough to say the least. Of the 66 I basically have only the cab, the grill, and the title... If it's an automatic it's probably a Quadratrac transfercase and is probably still configured for full time 4wd. Be wary of the potential to damage it, and the special fluid requirement for it.

It takes maybe a couple hours at most to swap door guts over. Nothing special is needed, just basic hand tools, other than you will need a drill/bits and some replacement rivets or 1/4" bolts and nuts to put the regulator and braces back in. If you really want it to be nice I would order some of the weatherstripping and the door lock gasket at the same time. Is it a new OEM door, or is it a repop? I don't know what the repop XJ/MJ doors are like, but I had some for a Chevy truck and they were complete garbage; nothing ever fit right in them and they were obviously thinner metal than the OEM doors.

Summit Racing sells a drop in one for $150. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-850047/overview/make/jeep I'm going to order one for my J-truck at some point.

Wow, you actually think something that not only has Renix parts on it, but isn't even chromed out, is actually nice! Way to see you're finally coming around on this stuff.

I had a sneaking suspicion it might have something to do with that. Sure looks like it's in nice shape though. :thumbsup:

I bought a 'Master' ball joint cup set from Astro Pneumatic, even with that I would up modifying a set of cups to do the BJs on the D30. Also, I bought an OTC BJ press after I got sick of blowing up the Chinese ones, it is much better and made in the USA. I believe if you buy this OTC kit you should be covered though: https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-8031-Ball-Joint-Truck/dp/B000O1E52E/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1487487111&sr=8-9&keywords=ball+joint+press (you can get it off amazon.com or a US retailer for much less) I bought all Moog steering, because I feel it is acceptable quality. I went with a V8 ZJ tie rod (you need the tie rod, the adjuster sleeve, and the tie rod end, all separate) as it is beefier than the stock junk. I always went with a later (97+ or something) XJ drag link, adjuster sleeve, and drag link end (at the pitman arm) as again these parts are something of an upgrade over the OEM early stuff. The Moog catalog for this stuff is IMHO quite confusing, I believe I put the P/Ns in my build thread, but otherwise I would recommend going to a parts store and piecing it together there to make sure it is all correct. However I ordered everything off Rockauto and managed to get it right, and I'm smart like dumptruck, so it is possible to figure out. Also I bought a 'flipsert' for the driver side knuckle, allowing me to put the tie rod on top of the steering arm. I got it from TMR Customs, IIRC, as they make the better type. It should be welded in, I certainly welded mine in, but you will hear of guys that just drilled the knuckle out and dropped them in. Anyways, it does a lot to correct the goofy geometry of the steering once you're lifted more than a couple inches. If you want to spend more money there is other options for full aftermarket steering replacement kits. If you go this route, don't get anything with Heim joints, they typically wear out super fast on the street.

Cast iron manifolds? Probably be fine...

I'm betting they will still be long enough.

It's kinda neither. It's a Renix that the computer is only controlling the ignition and there's a demand based propane setup on it. I said it before, I'll say it again, I would put a HEI on it and be done. Throw some lighter springs in it so it advances hard and don't look back.

That AW4 is different from the one in your 89, or what normally comes in an 89 at least, in that it has a different TV cable and the valvebody/internals are actually different in regards to that. It takes a different amount of throw to actuate it. The good news is if you go to the HO throttle body/intake/brackets/throttle cable it works perfectly.

I have Bilstein 24-188197 in the front. I like them. My rears are some super cheap Monroe gas shocks that have been relocated. I don't like them, but they were super cheap... Will upgrade to Bilsteins probably at some point. Or even just a better Monroe or KYB.

At least you can swap the booster without bleeding it... Rockauto has a reman for under $100US. Or a new one for not much more.

Hmm. Canada might not have mandated it at that point. Honestly, I don't recall if I've ever seen a MJ here with a bench and headrests, but it's rare to find one with a bench still either way.

I thought Motive did, but it looks like they only make the JK ones. No comments on installing JK gears in a normal D30; I don't recall if it was determined to be possible or not, at the very least it isn't a bolt in swap. Reid Racing used to sell thick D30 gears though, but it appears they have long discontinued them. They might have also only been for LP applications, and who knows where they were sourcing them from or getting them cut. I'm surprised nobody else has stepped up though, but the JK market really is the only market for light Jeep stuff that manufacturers care for anymore.

The D44 is a good axle, and if you're going to spend money on a locker it would be the one to put it in. If you want to be cheaper and get a Zip Locker (mine was cheap, I will admit that, I have a dealer that works hard for me) then make sure you order the sleeves for the ring gear bolts. In my build thread I think I posted enough information that a guy could order a Zip and not have a terrible time installing it. There was just a few unexpected things, such as needing the bolt sleeves, and no information on wiring the switch for the air valve, otherwise it was reasonably straightforward. Look at the Ox Locker too. I ruled it out because of pricing given I did not want to run the cable shifter, but honestly I feel it is a superior design to the ARB and Zip because you can actuate it to the locked position with the supplied 'bolt' if need be. It is a very strong design and comes with a bulletproof cover.

Above comment was made assuming there is no actual leaks in the system. Leaks are normally easy to find, so I would assume there isn't any.

IMHO those symptoms point to the seals in the master cylinder being shot and bypassing when the additional 'oompf' of the booster is applied. If you REALLY stand on the pedal with the engine off/vacuum bled, will it drop?

Maybe in the US market? My 89 didn't, and it was definitely original when I got it. I swapped to buckets immediately because of the lack of headrests.

IMHO 4.88 gears are asking for trouble in the D30 (at least the conventional D30). I would stick with 4.56 if you're going to spend the money. Gear contact gets dicey at ratios lower than that with a D30. 37" tires are at the outer limits of what a D30 can do. With that in mind I would either suggest leaving the front end open, or a good replacement case LSD like the Truetrac. I would also suggest spending the money on a truss. If you really have money to spend then RCV axleshafts are a good idea, as they run much smoother than conventional u-joint shafts and that does somewhat alleviate stress from the front end. You will either need a new carrier or to buy thick gears to regear the D30. The advantage of thick gears on a stock carrier is they do not deflect quite as much as normal gears would on a stock/replacement carrier, likewise a Truetrac is a very rigid design and will support the gears well even if you buy the (correct) one to run normal gears. Thick gears are also generally more expensive than normal gears, and not all manufacturers offer thick gears. I'm running a Zip Locker (air) in my rear. Yukon did not really impress me with it, and I would probably not purchase another one unless the price point was unbeatable. An ARB is more money but my experience with them is they are a more complete/better product. It all comes down to what you want to spend though. Yukon products can be had cheap if you know a dealer. Eaton is much harder to move on, but ARB can also be found for a good price at the right time.

^^^^ Didn't know that. It always surprised me that they got away without them before then too. Still, doesn't look like the type of seat I'd call comfy... Having a screwed up back and all.

True. I'd probably even take it through the car wash every now and then. The current rig loses paint if you wash it, so that's kinda out. Although in all honesty, I'd still be running a Mobil 1 or Quaker State full synthetic in it. :cheers:

mine died within 5 minutes of running dry... don`t do it... That's a long time in terms of not having fuel in the tank... Since you're not going anywhere at that point anyways.

I'm sooo jealous of that guy that swapped in a 60/40 bench from (I think) a dakota. :drool: it looked comfy as all get out. MJ benches are, well, basic. Basic, yes, that's a word that could describe them. And no headrests. I'm not exactly a safety Nazi, but I'd rather not break my neck because somebody hit me from behind.

There is nothing wrong with the coil pack ignition. If I was doing a full swap (which I would probably never do) I would have no qualms about going to it.