DirtyComanche

Lots of anger in this thread. I have had good luck with the high end Moog. I don't think I've ever got an ACDelco part that was substandard in any way. Fel-Pro makes some good stuff, along with standard/cheap stuff. I've even bought lots of Dorman junk for not a lot of money, and found it to be acceptable. I don't have high regard for Crown, Omix-ADA, and BWD electrical (I don't know if that's a brand you would ever run into). There's probably a lot of other brands that I don't have high regard for, but I just don't buy that stuff and don't think about it. Generally if it's a brand I feel is suspect I treat everything on a case by case basis, and try to see the part prior to buying it. I basically can't buy dealer parts, and most eBay stuff is out of the US ($$$ shipping), so most of what I use is aftermarket or junkyard.

Please do tell me anything else you remember about the issues with this truck - besides the engine. It may help me avoid a problem or two on the road. Thanks, JJ The engine and the body was all I discussed with him. I literally have every other driveline part available or procurable as a spare, and thus didn't care. I wanted a clean body, and it wasn't perfect, and once I started getting into the issues regarding it pressurizing the cooling system I realized it wasn't a simple fix to make it drive. I bowed out from there. I think you'll find most of the front axle, steering, and suspension is worn out though. It's at that point in it's life. But those are all parts you can just buy from a parts store, Rockauto, Summit, Quadratec, etc. IMHO no big deal. The truck seemed solid from talking to him on the phone, save the engine being roasted.

Mine was in the driver's door on my 89, and I've found a few there.

Thanks. Wasn't sure if it was different in 84-86 as I never have to deal with that stuff.

Why do you need a double Cardan joint with a SYE? Double Cardans are used when the operating angle exceeds what a single u-joint can handle. It's necessary on the front because the drive shaft is so short. It's not necessary on the rear unless you've got a very tall lift -- and even then I doubt it's necessary with a long-bed MJ. I said 'normally' because every (or damn near) SYE kit out there comes with a yoke/flange for a double cardan joint. You can put a normal single 1310/1350/1410/whatever yoke on if you can find the correct one (I believe I have a couple that work, but no driveshafts that would work with them either way). That said, there is still a huge advantages to the double cardan joint in it allows you to rotate the pinion up a fair whack, thus potentially saving the pinion yoke and driveshaft from damage, also as it keeps 95% or so of the driveshaft mass at a nearly constant velocity you have less likelihood of vibrations AND shaft critical speed is not as big of a factor, and lastly the double cardan assembly is stronger at a like operating angle VS a regular u-joint, and since the u-joint at the pinion is now only operating over a small handful of degrees it is also effectively stronger. The setup has downsides in that it typically costs more money, unless you're welding perches onto the axle you must run shims to correct pinion angle, and it is more complicated and has more wear parts in general. Anyways, going full circle, the 'need' comment came from the fact that 'normally' the SYEs come with the incorrect yoke or flange to run a standard single u-joint. You still need a slip shaft to be built if you go with a different yoke, and IMHO at that point the cost difference of having a double cardan shaft built would be a wash. A more conventional slip yoke and fixed length shaft with single u-joints would be the cheapest, and if somebody is happy with that then that's what they should buy.

It's a common problem, that might be something of an extreme case. I was very close to hopping on a plane to go get this thing when it was a few owners back. Discussion with the then owner lead me to realize it had much more major issues than it appeared on the surface. At least it's now with somebody that will fix it. A TDI should be pretty freakin' awesome in one of these trucks, and I've definitely thought about it for my own 86...

Why exactly do you say this? I've been considering going to CVs but only in the name of the NP247 in my basement... I have ZJ CVs. They run a lot smoother, which is nice since I also have an autolocker in the front. There is some debate as to of how strong they are. Time will tell.

It will be fine. Don't run it up to 120mph. Pretty certain the shaft in the rear of mine right now is a retubed front, which is even smaller. Well, more like 100% certain, since I had a shop do it. It's even got rock rash on it, no issues. Being .120" wall (the 'heavy' stuff according to anything but off-road driveline shops) it helps. Is there an advantage to running a re-tubed front? Or is it part of a SYE? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk You need a 1310 double cardon type joint and a slip shaft with a SYE. Or at least normally you would. I blew up an expensive Tom Woods shaft and got a junkyard front retubed for the replacement as it has a 1310 double cardon and slip shaft on it. Is it the best solution? No. Also mine is a SWB; I would never consider it with a LWB, if anyone with a LWB reads this. The shaft critical speed is well beyond anything I'd ever dare do with the truck.

What's the resistance range on an 86 XJ/MJ fuel sender? Still 0-90ish omhs? (0-88ohms) I scoured the internet and can't find it anywhere.

It will be fine. Don't run it up to 120mph. Pretty certain the shaft in the rear of mine right now is a retubed front, which is even smaller. Well, more like 100% certain, since I had a shop do it. It's even got rock rash on it, no issues. Being .120" wall (the 'heavy' stuff according to anything but off-road driveline shops) it helps.

I'm assuming that short driveshaft you've got is out of an XJ. You could have it retubed if need be...

The crossmembers are the same. Speedo gear will need to be changed if there was a gear ratio or tire size change. If there's both a ratio and tire size change sometimes it works out. There's charts out there showing which one is needed given tire size and ratio. There is differences regarding the style of the gears and the gear holders, I don't know the rhyme or reason to it and just keep spare early style gears on hand because that's all I ever use.

Thanks for the link. That's very informative.

Yeah, the front driveshaft will work fine. Rear will need to be shortened. If you're at all considering a SYE, now is the time to do it; it isn't really needed on a MJ but I run one for reliability and convenience reasons. Depending on what speedo setup is on it you may just be able to unthread it and thread the speedo cable on without having to pull the gear out. It was the case for the 93? tcase that is my MJ. However there's a good chance you're going to need a different gear and to index the gear differently anyways.

I thought it would barely clear the floor when clocked that way? It used to be somewhat common for guys to drill to the YJ/TJ clocking, or swap the trans, as it gave you a lot more belly clearance. Or maybe you need to massage the floor? I don't recall, I always just raised the tranny mount. At 6" you need a real lift kit for the front. Lower control arms/upper control arms (or long arms of some sort), track bar + bracket, shocks, swaybar links, brake hoses, springs, the steering should be upgraded, etc... It will be undriveable and a public hazard if you half @$$ it at that height.

If you go spring over you're going to have a lot of lift for 31" tires. Or do you mean switch the XJ axle to spring under? They're spring over from the factory (but the spring perches are in the wrong place, don't try just bolting it up). For gears you will want something low. If the 4L XJ is an auto, it will have 3.55s, if it's manual it will be 3.07. Neither would be terribly desirable. 4.10 or 4.56 would be better. Also the clocking on the tcase out of the Wrangler should be higher, IIRC, it's the transmission that's drilled differently either way.

Nope. WJ axle is wider, shafts are thus longer.

I'm resistant to this only because of the loss of space associated with doing so. I guess there might be some creative options for where to install an adequate sized sub and enclosure, more research would be needed. I should pull my interior out and check what's in there either way. I guess I could just try fading them out and letting the better Polks do the majority of the work too. I agree on the sub, it takes up way too much of the MJ's meager dry storage space for me to bother. Adding an amp (even a small relatively cheap one) will give you some more bass to work with. I don't know how much homework you've done on this so you may be aware of this already, but I wouldn't bother with adding a bunch of "sound deadener" like Dynamat and the others. It doesn't really stop sound from coming in, it just makes panels heavier to cut their resonant frequency. I put almost half of the "bulk pack" of Dynamat in my truck - on the floors, roof, doors, almost everywhere, and I was very disappointed. The only change I noticed was the doors made more of a "thunk" than a "clang" when closing them from the inside. No noticeable decrease in anything else. A much better way to go to cut road noise would be to add something like 1lb/sqft mass loaded vinyl below the glass line. A little more involved than rolling Dynamat everywhere, but it depends on how far you want to go. Yeah, I'm aware the Dynamat type products don't really do a lot. I haven't done much research on it and wouldn't go ordering anything willynilly. I'm guessing this stuff is what you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Vinyl-Square-Acoustic-Barrier/dp/B007N3356S Fixing my door hinges and seals would probably be the most bang for the buck starting point... Or even going to new style doors with the one piece glass as they seem to seal better in regards to the window.

Last tank of gas was 430km and 58.5L to fill, tank before then was 380km and 52L to fill. So that's about 20mpg if I converted it right? I should probably check my odometer calibration based on that... I don't think it's spot on.

I also should probably order some sound deadening and pull the entire interior out and go to town with that. Plus fix the door hinges and striker on the driver's door. Cutting down the road noise would probably do wonders.

I'm resistant to this only because of the loss of space associated with doing so. I guess there might be some creative options for where to install an adequate sized sub and enclosure, more research would be needed. I should pull my interior out and check what's in there either way. I guess I could just try fading them out and letting the better Polks do the majority of the work too.

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-83502745-Fuel-Repair/dp/B00B8X56RA These won't work? Maybe. You tell me. I had a good P/N for the dealer and they told me it was no longer good, I never found a cross reference for it, the one they had was definitely not right. The pictured setup is not 100% the same as the OEM, but it may or may not be close enough.

Not specific enough. What lockers? What LED headlights? Is the light bar straight or curved? 1989 is a transition year, do you have an AX-15 or a Peugeot 5spd? What colour is your interior? Do you like gladiator movies? Okay, kinda just bustin' your balls there. Your sig is better than most. :thumbsup:

Mine's harder. With the 01 intake and the 04 TJ steering pump, there's very little wiggle room for the fuel lines. I had to bend the fuel rail nipples slightly to fit them in. Thus I disco the fuel lines when changing injectors. Last time I disconnected the fuel lines from the rail in my RENIX Jeep, it cost $25 to put them back together. The FSM says to replace those little plastic fittings if you disconnect them, it is a "disposable" seal. Guess what, those little plastic thingies are out of production, last I heard.... My last engine swap, the fuel rail was hanging off to the side, still connected to the fuel lines. No leaks there, yet. Guess what, I got spares. The ones you use are actually available. The Renix ones aren't. They're really close to a GM part, which I believe I managed to make work, minus that the backup ring (goes between the o-rings) is not available. IMHO the quick connect is a weakness and should be deleted. In a perfect world, that is. On my XJ I wound up just using FI hose and FI clamps, since I put a bunch of HO junk in a Renix chassis and something had to give where the fuel lines met (or didn't meet, initially). Much cleaner would be some AN adapters and some better hose.

I don't even have a 'bama cat on my XJ. Just a tiny little "Pypes" muffler tucked up by the rear axle. It's 2.5" stainless all the way too. Performance wise, who knows, 37s with 4.10 gears and about 1000lbs of extra axle and suspension parts means I'm clawing for every HP I can get.