DirtyComanche

I'd pull the head and oil pan at that point. See what's on the bottom of the oil pan. My guess is you'll find some obvious carnage relating to #6.

I bought some injectors off fleabay... They're supposed to be the Ford 710s. Not the best, but for the 15 minutes it takes to swap them I figured they would be worth the upgrade from the OEM ones. This is what I was sent: Image Not Found P/N is 0 280 155 700 What the hell are these? Any idea on specs? I'm thinking I should dispute and send them back, but just want to make sure they aren't an equivalent/interchange P/N.

What RC parts did you wind up with? Some of the stuff they make is better resold than used, even if it was cheap/free.

I'm assuming they aren't DOT approved, which is too bad.

Supply and demand. If there is demand with no supply, be prepared to PAY. I'd happily drop $500+ for a bed if I needed it and it was in good enough shape.

He means non-C Clip style, aka conventional semi-floating, where the axle is retained by a retainer plate against the wheel bearing/seal at the end of the axle tube. I believe a 1989 D35 will use that style of axle shaft retention. I don't know if there's any obvious way to distinguish one from another, save pulling the cover off and looking for the lack of C Clips on the axleshafts, or actually taking the retaining plates off.

Does the pump still work? Just pull the fuel line off the filter and redirect it into a jerry, then put a jumper from the ballast resistor right to the battery and pump it out. (Do this at your own risk, but it is how I do it)

I do that with any P/N that has high shipping, not just Crown/Omix/whatever. There can be good deals on Amazon...

Most of them are longer... Do your homework before buying to ensure you're getting the right ones. I have pretty much sold and installed ALL brands and they are NOT any longer unless they are adjustable when talking Jeep XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ... Stock and aftermarket are 15.75" I think if memory serves me correctly today... I have RE ones. I recommended RE ones. RE ones are 16", which is .25" longer than stock. You are correct that 15.75" is stock. I will not comment on other arms as I have only ever measured RE fixed ones.

The difference in polarity is NOT a MJ vs XJ thing. It's a Renix vs HO thing.

Even on a Renix you shouldn't need to pull the oil filter adapter off, but if the bolt has never been flipped around and shortened you will have to pull the filter...

Why do you need a rev limiter? What has been done to the engine?

To clarify, you had Ford 710 injectors and swapped them for Volvo 746 injectors? And the results were actually noticeable?

Most of them are longer... Do your homework before buying to ensure you're getting the right ones.

You need to define what you're doing with the truck, what has been done to it as far as mods, and what you intend to do in the future as far as usage and mods. You don't normally need frame stiffeners. They might be a good idea depending on usage. When I had rock sliders I welded them on. Just two fairly large plates (probably about 4"x4"x.188" thick) that went on the side of the uniframe with rosette welds and stitch welds around them. I would probably not weld it that way again, but the basic concept was fine. Self tapping screws, threaded inserts, and bolted through sleeves are other common methods of doing it.

Slip Yoke Eliminator Which is a kit that converts the slip yoke on the rear driveshaft/transfer case output into a fixed yoke on the output. Then you need a new driveshaft. Most people opt for a double cardon "CV" type driveshaft at that point, but with a MJ you could actually run a single in most instances, although part of the nice thing about going to a double cardon setup is you can angle the pinion up and protect the driveshaft and pinion yoke some. I'm running the AA HD kit in my NP231, and I have a retubed front driveshaft. The driveshaft is a little wimpy for that much length, but it's been doing fine; there is rock rash on it from when I ran it in my last MJ so it will need to be replaced eventually anyways. I would not run a retubed front driveshaft in a LWB though.

I have those but just with the "OEM style" poly bushings. I don't care if it flexes amazing, I just want it to last.

Stronger than the Links? They're stronger than the stock channel arms. Not stronger than probably any of the aftermarket ones.

At least you've got shop space now. A/C sure is nice in lots of parts of the world too...

I kinda shelved it for the time being, and haven't done anything about it. I was trying to snag a Ford unit and an Astro unit to try fitting up, but both of the ones I was going for slipped away on me. I also want to get my other chassis over to try fitting it on, since I am daily driving my MJ right now. As for the pump I was probably just going to get the 01-04 V8 WJ pump, it fits nicely onto the Renix or early HO brackets (you need to either swap the pulley or mill about .300" off the bracket, I milled the one in my XJ when I did it). This pump is factory ported and has the best flow characteristics of any TC pump, plus the reservoir has dual return ports. I believe at least the GM hydroboosts use the same fittings as an XJ/MJ, so the XJ/MJ pump outlet fitting in the WJ pump should allow you to run GM pressure hoses. There may be some messing around to get ones that fit well, I was going to look at my plowtruck at some point since it runs a GM hydroboost although it is the more typical P pump setup. If all else fails Vanco sells fittings and hoses for generic installations. I would do some costing prior to actually purchasing anything other than mockup parts. Getting a WJ booster and master is probably a more economical swap. It is only $125 for a reman booster, or $150 for a new one off Rockauto (Canadian pricing), and $85 for a new master cylinder with reservoir. Junkyard parts should be cheaper.

It probably has to do more with which transmission you have than anything, and perhaps how the engine is aligned or how bagged out the engine/tranny mounts are. AFAIK the firewalls are all essentially the same (save changes for the steering column and small things) from 87 and on. And yes, a CPS that doesn't work when it warms up is on its way out. But you really need to put a multimeter on it to confirm it. A dying coil can do that too.

There's a cup with a cutout in it for doing that one. I posted an OTC kit a couple days ago, pretty certain it comes with the correct cup. But yes, you can just mod yours. If you're using a cheap kit with cheap (thin) cups they will distort over time, modded or not, be prepared for it.

How do you explain the 0331 head?

No idea. The Spectra Premium I bought was popped in Canada I believe, it had a "Made in Canada" sticker on it at least. It is coated with terne. The Dorman one comes painted, along with a couple of the eBay brands and the Platinum Pro; I don't know the COO of them, but I don't think they came out of the same factory given that they are painted and not listed as having any other anti corrosion.

Yeah, Dorman, Spectra Premium, and Platinum Pro.