DirtyComanche

What hole rains tranny fluid when you try to move it? Where you filled it from? There should be a tube and a dipstick in it. There should also be a tranny cooler somewhere, that A/C condenser is not it though, trace the lines off the tranny to see where they go. Disclaimer, I am not any sort of an expert on the 86 and earlier XJ/MJs.

I would probably find the temperature of an average day in 'Bama to be extreme. :rotfl2: If you previously cleaned up the connector for the ECM (or other ones) I would start there again. They're supposed to have a light film of corrosion preventative grease on them (typically of the dielectric type) and removing it can cause troubles down the road. Give the IAC and throttle body a cleaning too, for the few minutes it takes it rules out what can turn into some tail chasing.

Get a fine gasket scraper and pound it gently into the edge. A drywall putty knife will work too if it is stiff enough, many aren't. Or you can put a block of wood against the pan and go at it with a sledge (turn the block sideways to spread the load) but that's a bit more destructive.

Roger. I will need to check some things before I swap them, and maybe burn this tank of gas off to try to get a better idea of current fuel economy. In the meantime I guess I'll go googling to see if there is any other info out there.

Hmm. Wonder if it's better or worse? Any documentation on such? Run them and see how it goes?

According to that they have the same flow rate as the 710. But what else might be different? Coil impedance?

They were advertised as being the Ford '710' injectors, which are plug and play swaps for Renix applications. The 710 isn't considered to be as good as the 746, but they're still an upgrade from the stock ones are they are a 4 hole design with the one piece body. Edit, basically the seller sent me something that is a different P/N than what I ordered. If I dispute it I will win. I want to know if it's worth disputing, or if these are actually the same and to just run them.

I'd pull the head and oil pan at that point. See what's on the bottom of the oil pan. My guess is you'll find some obvious carnage relating to #6.

I bought some injectors off fleabay... They're supposed to be the Ford 710s. Not the best, but for the 15 minutes it takes to swap them I figured they would be worth the upgrade from the OEM ones. This is what I was sent: Image Not Found P/N is 0 280 155 700 What the hell are these? Any idea on specs? I'm thinking I should dispute and send them back, but just want to make sure they aren't an equivalent/interchange P/N.

What RC parts did you wind up with? Some of the stuff they make is better resold than used, even if it was cheap/free.

I'm assuming they aren't DOT approved, which is too bad.

Supply and demand. If there is demand with no supply, be prepared to PAY. I'd happily drop $500+ for a bed if I needed it and it was in good enough shape.

He means non-C Clip style, aka conventional semi-floating, where the axle is retained by a retainer plate against the wheel bearing/seal at the end of the axle tube. I believe a 1989 D35 will use that style of axle shaft retention. I don't know if there's any obvious way to distinguish one from another, save pulling the cover off and looking for the lack of C Clips on the axleshafts, or actually taking the retaining plates off.

Does the pump still work? Just pull the fuel line off the filter and redirect it into a jerry, then put a jumper from the ballast resistor right to the battery and pump it out. (Do this at your own risk, but it is how I do it)

I do that with any P/N that has high shipping, not just Crown/Omix/whatever. There can be good deals on Amazon...

Most of them are longer... Do your homework before buying to ensure you're getting the right ones. I have pretty much sold and installed ALL brands and they are NOT any longer unless they are adjustable when talking Jeep XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ... Stock and aftermarket are 15.75" I think if memory serves me correctly today... I have RE ones. I recommended RE ones. RE ones are 16", which is .25" longer than stock. You are correct that 15.75" is stock. I will not comment on other arms as I have only ever measured RE fixed ones.

The difference in polarity is NOT a MJ vs XJ thing. It's a Renix vs HO thing.

Even on a Renix you shouldn't need to pull the oil filter adapter off, but if the bolt has never been flipped around and shortened you will have to pull the filter...

Why do you need a rev limiter? What has been done to the engine?

To clarify, you had Ford 710 injectors and swapped them for Volvo 746 injectors? And the results were actually noticeable?

Most of them are longer... Do your homework before buying to ensure you're getting the right ones.

You need to define what you're doing with the truck, what has been done to it as far as mods, and what you intend to do in the future as far as usage and mods. You don't normally need frame stiffeners. They might be a good idea depending on usage. When I had rock sliders I welded them on. Just two fairly large plates (probably about 4"x4"x.188" thick) that went on the side of the uniframe with rosette welds and stitch welds around them. I would probably not weld it that way again, but the basic concept was fine. Self tapping screws, threaded inserts, and bolted through sleeves are other common methods of doing it.

Slip Yoke Eliminator Which is a kit that converts the slip yoke on the rear driveshaft/transfer case output into a fixed yoke on the output. Then you need a new driveshaft. Most people opt for a double cardon "CV" type driveshaft at that point, but with a MJ you could actually run a single in most instances, although part of the nice thing about going to a double cardon setup is you can angle the pinion up and protect the driveshaft and pinion yoke some. I'm running the AA HD kit in my NP231, and I have a retubed front driveshaft. The driveshaft is a little wimpy for that much length, but it's been doing fine; there is rock rash on it from when I ran it in my last MJ so it will need to be replaced eventually anyways. I would not run a retubed front driveshaft in a LWB though.

I have those but just with the "OEM style" poly bushings. I don't care if it flexes amazing, I just want it to last.

Stronger than the Links? They're stronger than the stock channel arms. Not stronger than probably any of the aftermarket ones.