DirtyComanche

Yeah, the front driveshaft will work fine. Rear will need to be shortened. If you're at all considering a SYE, now is the time to do it; it isn't really needed on a MJ but I run one for reliability and convenience reasons. Depending on what speedo setup is on it you may just be able to unthread it and thread the speedo cable on without having to pull the gear out. It was the case for the 93? tcase that is my MJ. However there's a good chance you're going to need a different gear and to index the gear differently anyways.

I thought it would barely clear the floor when clocked that way? It used to be somewhat common for guys to drill to the YJ/TJ clocking, or swap the trans, as it gave you a lot more belly clearance. Or maybe you need to massage the floor? I don't recall, I always just raised the tranny mount. At 6" you need a real lift kit for the front. Lower control arms/upper control arms (or long arms of some sort), track bar + bracket, shocks, swaybar links, brake hoses, springs, the steering should be upgraded, etc... It will be undriveable and a public hazard if you half @$$ it at that height.

If you go spring over you're going to have a lot of lift for 31" tires. Or do you mean switch the XJ axle to spring under? They're spring over from the factory (but the spring perches are in the wrong place, don't try just bolting it up). For gears you will want something low. If the 4L XJ is an auto, it will have 3.55s, if it's manual it will be 3.07. Neither would be terribly desirable. 4.10 or 4.56 would be better. Also the clocking on the tcase out of the Wrangler should be higher, IIRC, it's the transmission that's drilled differently either way.

Nope. WJ axle is wider, shafts are thus longer.

I'm resistant to this only because of the loss of space associated with doing so. I guess there might be some creative options for where to install an adequate sized sub and enclosure, more research would be needed. I should pull my interior out and check what's in there either way. I guess I could just try fading them out and letting the better Polks do the majority of the work too. I agree on the sub, it takes up way too much of the MJ's meager dry storage space for me to bother. Adding an amp (even a small relatively cheap one) will give you some more bass to work with. I don't know how much homework you've done on this so you may be aware of this already, but I wouldn't bother with adding a bunch of "sound deadener" like Dynamat and the others. It doesn't really stop sound from coming in, it just makes panels heavier to cut their resonant frequency. I put almost half of the "bulk pack" of Dynamat in my truck - on the floors, roof, doors, almost everywhere, and I was very disappointed. The only change I noticed was the doors made more of a "thunk" than a "clang" when closing them from the inside. No noticeable decrease in anything else. A much better way to go to cut road noise would be to add something like 1lb/sqft mass loaded vinyl below the glass line. A little more involved than rolling Dynamat everywhere, but it depends on how far you want to go. Yeah, I'm aware the Dynamat type products don't really do a lot. I haven't done much research on it and wouldn't go ordering anything willynilly. I'm guessing this stuff is what you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Vinyl-Square-Acoustic-Barrier/dp/B007N3356S Fixing my door hinges and seals would probably be the most bang for the buck starting point... Or even going to new style doors with the one piece glass as they seem to seal better in regards to the window.

Last tank of gas was 430km and 58.5L to fill, tank before then was 380km and 52L to fill. So that's about 20mpg if I converted it right? I should probably check my odometer calibration based on that... I don't think it's spot on.

I also should probably order some sound deadening and pull the entire interior out and go to town with that. Plus fix the door hinges and striker on the driver's door. Cutting down the road noise would probably do wonders.

I'm resistant to this only because of the loss of space associated with doing so. I guess there might be some creative options for where to install an adequate sized sub and enclosure, more research would be needed. I should pull my interior out and check what's in there either way. I guess I could just try fading them out and letting the better Polks do the majority of the work too.

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-83502745-Fuel-Repair/dp/B00B8X56RA These won't work? Maybe. You tell me. I had a good P/N for the dealer and they told me it was no longer good, I never found a cross reference for it, the one they had was definitely not right. The pictured setup is not 100% the same as the OEM, but it may or may not be close enough.

Not specific enough. What lockers? What LED headlights? Is the light bar straight or curved? 1989 is a transition year, do you have an AX-15 or a Peugeot 5spd? What colour is your interior? Do you like gladiator movies? Okay, kinda just bustin' your balls there. Your sig is better than most. :thumbsup:

Mine's harder. With the 01 intake and the 04 TJ steering pump, there's very little wiggle room for the fuel lines. I had to bend the fuel rail nipples slightly to fit them in. Thus I disco the fuel lines when changing injectors. Last time I disconnected the fuel lines from the rail in my RENIX Jeep, it cost $25 to put them back together. The FSM says to replace those little plastic fittings if you disconnect them, it is a "disposable" seal. Guess what, those little plastic thingies are out of production, last I heard.... My last engine swap, the fuel rail was hanging off to the side, still connected to the fuel lines. No leaks there, yet. Guess what, I got spares. The ones you use are actually available. The Renix ones aren't. They're really close to a GM part, which I believe I managed to make work, minus that the backup ring (goes between the o-rings) is not available. IMHO the quick connect is a weakness and should be deleted. In a perfect world, that is. On my XJ I wound up just using FI hose and FI clamps, since I put a bunch of HO junk in a Renix chassis and something had to give where the fuel lines met (or didn't meet, initially). Much cleaner would be some AN adapters and some better hose.

I don't even have a 'bama cat on my XJ. Just a tiny little "Pypes" muffler tucked up by the rear axle. It's 2.5" stainless all the way too. Performance wise, who knows, 37s with 4.10 gears and about 1000lbs of extra axle and suspension parts means I'm clawing for every HP I can get.

I wouldn't pull the fuel lines off the rail. If you do you need new clips for them or they might blow off on you, and you will probably burn the truck down if that happens. I'd just pop the rail loose, pull the injectors off it, and stuff the new ones on. Lube the orings with something slick, I use thin silicone grease, but WD-40 or clean oil works fine. For that matter hitting each end of the injectors with WD-40 before trying to pull the rail makes it a lot easier to get them out. I also paintpen mark the injector electrical connectors rather than taping them, but that's me. Also, I have no idea why one would remove the fuel cap as suggested in that writeup?

I'd like some good rear speakers to try to get my MJ's stereo to sound better. Currently I have some Polk 6.5" coaxial in the doors, I don't know what's actually installed in the back but they don't seem too awesome. I'm guessing they're low end Alpine to match what was in the doors. I'm lead to believe that 6x9s will fit with minimal issues? What's a good quality and intelligent choice speaker for the rear? Ideally I'd like to get a bit more bass out of the system.

The good news is that Aqualu can build a tub and box for you if you just want to make one.

It is pronounced "Willis" - However I don't say that because nobody knows WTF I'm talking about. That saw attachment at 6:30ish is scary.

They're an idea that deservedly went out of style because they suck.

I don't carry that type of stuff. If you need it, it's probably not going to be within reach, or in this case it wouldn't work anyways. All my Jeeps have crank windows... Works fine unless you lose the crank. And the only truck I ever really rolled conveniently blew the driver's window out anyway.

Track down some 70s 2wd Chevy springs and try them SOA. They're within 1" in total length, and the center pin hole was only 1" out, IIRC, so with an offset perch it would be the same. No, I have no idea how well it will work. My bagged out 2wd springs wound up being about the right height, so I never bothered to find such springs.

Really? What info? Like what I already posted?

:waving: Welcome. Just try to break your posts into separate sentences. :no:

Krustyballer16 sells a nice bumper on here. I thought it was a good deal and would order one if the shipping wouldn't kill me.

I thinks you have a ground problem.

On this note, what is the resistance on a stock Renix injector? I guess I could measure mine.

I measured the resistance of the coil at 14.4ohms. I believe the 710s are stated as being 14.3ohms, so let's call it the same. There is another P/N on them, F4SE-A1B, a Ford P/N, which I'm getting some info is also on the 710 injectors... Meaning they're going to be basically the same, the 710 might be something of an updated P/N on Bosch's part, but not different enough to warrant a superseding P/N for Ford.