DirtyComanche

Looks like those floor pans fit pretty decent. It's coming along nicely. :cheers:

Check Youtube for tear down videos? Not all the ARBs are built exactly the same, and honestly I've never taken one apart. I'd pull the air collar off and if there is ANY scoring or damage on the sealing surface I'd walk away... Unless you can get it cheap enough to risk not being able to repair it.

That's some interesting info. For a Renix application a guy would have to make a hole/mount for the CPS, or get one of the now non-procurable CPS relocation kits, or perhaps there is some other option. Looking at it, it looks like it would be something of a PITA to swap in a transmission that I honestly don't feel is much better than the AX-15 or NV3550. If they had actually made it a double OD transmission I would be more likely to try it. Now, that said, I COULD put it in my severely underpowered J-truck that currently has a 258/Turbohydraslushomatic-400/CyBorgWarner Quadrainsanity combo. I am debating picking it up either way as if nothing else it can live in the shed (it can keep my spare AW4 company) and be a spare for my JK.

I hate to break it to you, but Novak is wrong as often as they are right. They also don't mention anything about this application (3.8L). Edit. They do mention the 3.8L. My bad. They don't mention anything useful though, other than it will bolt to it with the correct bellhousing. Which could imply that the 3.8L used it's own bellhousing, or that they don't have a clue and didn't want to get pinned down on that one...

I suppose if you defined your goals for the truck that would also be helpful.

If you're feeling play in the pinion either the yoke has backed off, the bearings are shot, it has ate a shim, the races have spun, or a combination thereof. Tear it apart and asses fully. If it's been used hard, or not had the oil changed, I would not be surprised if every bearing is shot. IMHO I'd put a Truetrac in any day over the Trashlock. The 3.73 and down version is inexplicably more expensive though. Gears and a setup kit aren't that bad of a deal if everything is trashed anyways. So you might as well go with a set of 4.10 gears so you can buy the cheaper Truetrac. I used a hybrid of Isuzu Trooper calipers and Ford Explorer rotors for my disk conversion. I do like the results, although it is something of an oddball setup. I also converted to EB 9" wheel bearing retainers, mostly because mine were screwed and I wanted to be different.

I'm getting some conflicting info on this, is the JK 3.8L NSG370 the same pattern as the 4L/TJ applications, or is it the same as the KJ 3.7L applications? I found a low mile JK NSG370 for dirt cheap... No, I don't really like the NSG370, but it could be worth exploring.

The EGR is of little use, IMHO, and was not included on later models... There isn't much running it anyways, just a line from the manifold to the solenoid, and a line from the solenoid to the valve. Either way it's junk under the hood. Yes, my MJ still has it, but it's long gone on my XJ (which is running a HO intake and exhaust). The intake air preheater setup is also of little use. I live in a rather cold climate, and I turfed it on both my MJ and XJ. No noticeable difference in cold starts. That's what another one of those lines is for.

Sooo... Some things I observed. -These tires suck for this, and running studded tires is about to become a no-no anyways. I need some decent mud terrains or something like that, 265/70R17 or 235/80R17 probably -The air line for the rear locker is leaking, durr -My front tow hooks are garbage because they don't have keepers, so at least I will have to track down some keepers -My rear bumper still looks like crap, and the hitch is seized in (not handy) -Most of the canopy clamps fell off on the washboard -My clutch won't disengage, ordered a new master and line for it to try before ordering a clutch... Hasn't shown up, so I can't determine if I need to order a whole clutch or not at this point. -Really need to get off my @$$ and build up and swap out the upper control arms, and a bad motor mount, both are super noticeable on the washboard

I went for a little drive today... Just off the highway on Willow North: It varied from being solid (as pictured) to seriously sloppy and wet. I left the rear unlocked in hope that if I buried it I'd be able to back out. Turned out there wasn't anything too terrible and walked through all of it. Ran into some dude doing a little gold prospecting on the way. Grey day, but the willow is moving some water: Went to St Marie, then figured I'd pop over to Opatcho, this is the little lake along the way to Opatcho. Not sure what it's actually called, Otipemisiwak? It was easy to get into. Flexing out on a stump at Opatcho. Rawr! : :) Opatcho was a little sloppy to get into, but certainly didn't need or use the rear locker. I then figured I'd try to go to Narrow, because that's a more interesting way to get home. I turned off into Ispah on the way, but it was probably not going to end well with 32" snow tires. If there was another vehicle I would have gone for it though, was mostly worried I'd get down to it and not be able to get turned around and enough momentum to get back up. Just before Pitoney the road deteriorated badly. And then I ran into this guy... He was screwed. Nothing with him, was using a broken piece of a pallet to try to dig himself out. When I took the picture I had actually dragged him a bunch already, and there was some grade there, and just that crappy wet slushy snow. I got to the point I couldn't maneuver well, plus my towhooks suck for tugging, so I resorted to digging him out with a shovel and using a comealong to drag him back to me. I turned around after I got him out, I felt like I could probably make it farther, but likely I would get in trouble and be unable to get through Narrow to the Bowrun FSR. Stopped and took another picture at the bridge over the Willow:

Krustyballer's hitch is designed basically the same as the other ones that used to be commercially available. They don't have gussets because there is no space for them, and they aren't terribly rigid until bolted to the frame. At work we use expanding foam to pack odd shaped items. Basically wrap the item in plastic, throw it in a box, add foam around it until it takes up the void space. Okay, there's a little more to it, but it's costly, so not a great option. I'd add some strategic pieces of wood to them and wedge them into a box. If it can't move around in the box, and the mount ends are blocked so they won't punch through the sides of the box, I don't see it causing any issues.

Looks good with some lift. :thumbsup:

All 91-95 HO map sensors are firewall mounted and can be used on a Renix. The 96 only MAP is TB mounted but has the same outputs and the earlier MAPs. The 97's and up MAPs are all TB mounted and have different outputs than the earlier MAPS. Okay, thanks for the correction, I thought all the TB mounted ones were the same. Silly for them to change them.

The Edlebrock head doesn't flow any better than a ported stock H.O.head according to posts on the Jeepstrokers site. Or even as well as the old HESCO aluminum head.(I have one in my stash of old parts). I would have said the Hesco head, but they're not exactly available. IMHO the head is worth it for the heat dissipation and detonation avoidance. But once the 300HP number is thrown out there, there isn't a cheap way to do it. Save that he could just file the ring gap right out, buy a progressive nitrous kit, and spray n' pray...

It's really only a full rebuild if you open it up, for the time it takes to get that far replacing all the wear parts is only what makes sense. The rebuild kit isn't terribly costly from what I recall, but people want an arm and a leg to do it. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4723188&cc=1181720&jsn=375 Not sure if there's better kits out there or not. That one is listed for an A340, but it shooooooooooould be correct.

Picture of the new pulley setup vs old?

IMHO, you'll want the Edlebrock head. I'd get a later block for convenience. I'd run the coil pack ignition. No idea how achievable 300HP is N/A, probably not easy short of building a big stroker and I'm not sure what reliability is going to be like...

Early HO and Renix ones are the same. Along with GM TBI applications. The later HO ones are different in how they mount (directly to the throttle body) but still have the same logic/output. I'm not Mopar-or-Nocar, so I'd get an ACDelco one... Pretty certain the brand new spare I have on the shelf is ACDelco.

What's the goals of the engine? Boost? Big power?

The Renix intake fits the HO head better than the HO intake fits the Renix head... Neither is optimal. The Renix exhaust header fits the HO head fine, or it should, as you can get a stock HO header to fit on a Renix head with no issues. The exhaust ports are in the same location. I'd get the later HO intake and adapt the Renix controls to it. Should be good for a few ponies, between giving you a large throttle body and better flowing intake manifold.

This is a good idea but I plan on having A/C and it has cruise so along with the overflow bottle and fuse box there really isn't space there. I understand. I don't have A/C. None of my wiring is anywhere near where the factory put it (plus that's a Renix), and my overflow bottle is actually where the factory should have put it (on the driver's side). I doubt you could get my tray to work with A/C though, to say it is tight is an understatement.

I'd put it where the coolant reservoir is on a Renix instead. Image Not Found Image Not Found This is a single battery setup, but you get the point... It's void space, might as well fill it, and it's on the correct side for shorter cables.

I just used a grinder to grind down the intake manifold enough to fit. And as I said before, that won't fix an issue with the tubes fouling on the intake runners. The Renix intake has the runners much lower on it than either of the HO style intakes. If the header tubes have too gentle of a radius out of the exhaust ports they will hit the intake runners, and a grinder isn't going to fix that (not in a way that works). A stock HO header, no big deal, do a little clearance work on the flanges if need be. But why run a stock header? You're referring to the late late models with the swooped up intake manifolds that take that header. Correct. That won't work. But. get one for a 91 to 96 and you're fine. The header I just posted will fit an early HO intake (or later, would fit the later one better) but can't possibly fit a Renix intake.

I haven't, but it's been done. Same problems apply as with the earlier HO intake, plus the usual problems for going to that intake. I don't know if it's a terribly worthwhile mod without reworking the intake ports on the head or going to a HO head (would be the route I would go if it came up).

I built my own downpipe. 2.5" cheap 409 stainless. Image Not Found Image Not Found I never took a picture of it installed for whatever reason, but it's very tight, and that's with running an axle that offsets the pinion about 2" farther left than stock...