DirtyComanche

At least you've got shop space now. A/C sure is nice in lots of parts of the world too...

I kinda shelved it for the time being, and haven't done anything about it. I was trying to snag a Ford unit and an Astro unit to try fitting up, but both of the ones I was going for slipped away on me. I also want to get my other chassis over to try fitting it on, since I am daily driving my MJ right now. As for the pump I was probably just going to get the 01-04 V8 WJ pump, it fits nicely onto the Renix or early HO brackets (you need to either swap the pulley or mill about .300" off the bracket, I milled the one in my XJ when I did it). This pump is factory ported and has the best flow characteristics of any TC pump, plus the reservoir has dual return ports. I believe at least the GM hydroboosts use the same fittings as an XJ/MJ, so the XJ/MJ pump outlet fitting in the WJ pump should allow you to run GM pressure hoses. There may be some messing around to get ones that fit well, I was going to look at my plowtruck at some point since it runs a GM hydroboost although it is the more typical P pump setup. If all else fails Vanco sells fittings and hoses for generic installations. I would do some costing prior to actually purchasing anything other than mockup parts. Getting a WJ booster and master is probably a more economical swap. It is only $125 for a reman booster, or $150 for a new one off Rockauto (Canadian pricing), and $85 for a new master cylinder with reservoir. Junkyard parts should be cheaper.

It probably has to do more with which transmission you have than anything, and perhaps how the engine is aligned or how bagged out the engine/tranny mounts are. AFAIK the firewalls are all essentially the same (save changes for the steering column and small things) from 87 and on. And yes, a CPS that doesn't work when it warms up is on its way out. But you really need to put a multimeter on it to confirm it. A dying coil can do that too.

There's a cup with a cutout in it for doing that one. I posted an OTC kit a couple days ago, pretty certain it comes with the correct cup. But yes, you can just mod yours. If you're using a cheap kit with cheap (thin) cups they will distort over time, modded or not, be prepared for it.

How do you explain the 0331 head?

No idea. The Spectra Premium I bought was popped in Canada I believe, it had a "Made in Canada" sticker on it at least. It is coated with terne. The Dorman one comes painted, along with a couple of the eBay brands and the Platinum Pro; I don't know the COO of them, but I don't think they came out of the same factory given that they are painted and not listed as having any other anti corrosion.

Yeah, Dorman, Spectra Premium, and Platinum Pro.

Yeah, there's 3 options for each tank on there, plus the straps.

How did he mod them to fold forwards? I'm having no luck finding early 2dr seats and want to mod mine. I did swap a rocker seat into my old MJ with the MJ brackets, and it sat high/goofy. I don't know if the XJ brackets for them are equally shorter than normal XJ brackets, I have a feeling the front one might have been even shorter than the back one. I suppose I could look at the ones in my XJ and the spare seats I have, I might be able to tell. Either way, I wound up raising the back bracket when I had them in my MJ, so the seat just sat high in general, it was nice for visibility while wheeling, but it felt odd because of the loss of headroom.

Will WJ arms work with a 3 inch lift? Thanks They aren't any longer. They're better in every other way though. So yeah, you can use them, but they're a bit short for 3" lift, but you can buy a factory style caster shims (and the forks if you break the studs off them) and shim to get the correct caster.

5785967451589078 Good until April 23rd. 5%.

Good decision, IMHO. It will get you up and running reliably, and the stock power level is really quite decent. I would still suggest just swapping a known good motor in, even if you can't do the work there might be a local Jeep club that would be willing to help?

The fun thing about bending up a cage is you get way better as you do it, so by the time you're done you normally hate all the stuff you did at the start...

Is there power at pin 30? If there isn't, there's probably a fuse feeding it that's missing or blown. Taillights look really good like that.

I have high regard for Luk clutch components and would not worry about it. And as said, those UHMW plastics are very durable and make an excellent self lubricating bearing.

I bought fixed RE ones. They do what I want. If I wanted better performance for off road use it would probably buy the TMR ones with Johnny Joints on each end, but they're expensive and those joints don't last like an OEM style bushing. You need to define want you intend for the truck to do before I could give you a better answer.

Allegedly some of the renix blocks were thicker around the cylinders too and could be bored out farther. But IMHO it's not terribly relevant to anything.

I think the 4cyl trucks are a great starting point for swapping another powertrain into. I'd buy a 2wd 4L truck and swap it to 4wd before I would really consider a 4cyl. Before I bought the pair of trucks I have now I did look at a 4cyl, but the owner had 'rebuilt' the engine to the tune of about $1000, so he wanted way too much for the truck given its condition. IMHO he threw good money after bad rebuilding that engine (no idea what sort of quality the rebuild was anyways, his body work wasn't very good either). Some people love their little 4 banger, I just find the thing so lackluster in power that it isn't worth it.

Is that where PSC recommended tapping the box? It works, but it's not the normal way, you're better off doing it closer to the input/orbital part of the box IMHO.

The closed system should never vent and the XJ/MJ system doesn't really have provisions to do so. Some modern vehicles with closed systems have provisions to vent, but it is a design feature that only comes into play in the event that the system has been overfilled. Overfilling is something that will cause problems on the XJ/MJ system. The open system doesn't open THAT much, it pukes maybe a liter or two into the overflow/recovery tank, depending on temperature and system capacity. If you don't saturate the cooling system, IE it's cold out and you don't really load the engine up, it won't even be that much. System capacities between the two are essentially the same. There's a couple more liters of coolant being recirculated in the closed system (not less), but that's about it. Radiator dimensions are for all purposes the same. Since the closed system radiator is harder to source, there is many closed system rigs running around with an open style (with rad cap) radiator, they just have the overflow plugged, and it works fine. I don't know if the design similarities hold true for all vehicles that can be had in both an open or closed cooling system configuration, but looking at modern GM trucks (closed system) I would say they did not skimp on the radiator/radiator tank capacity in any way. I guess if you had a massive radiator/tanks/pressure bottle and ran a real hot thermostat, you might be able to get the coolant in the engine to above boiling before the system pressure built high enough to prevent it, but I'm not aware of anything having that issue.

Those would be XJ cables if they were still on the axle, they're not the same as MJ ones. Or at least they aren't if it's a newer XJ, older ones are very similar to the MJ cables (about 54" long), the newer ones use one long cable and one short cable (I believe about 70" and 30" respectively). Kinda irrelevant for the OP, unless he wants to buy two of the newer style XJ long cables. I stand by my statement that they should be long enough. Mine worked, I'm SOA. I bought brand new MJ cables when I put the axle in. Of course I happen to have Isuzu brake calipers, so it's not a direct comparison, but still, there was a lot of slack left. If you're worried about it I guess you could get the newer XJ cables or just an older XJ cable, I'd assume either will hook up fine.

That transmission will bolt up. Make sure you retain the flex plate from your current trans. The wiring might not be the same though, and the TV cable and internals are not. You can make the TV cable fit, but it's tight, I think I could pull up a picture of how I did it on my XJ if you want. It would be more ideal to find a later XJ that is being parted out and steal the trans/tcase/front driveshaft/shifter/linkage.

The correct one off Rockauto is only $32 cnd, before the discount... So that's like $25 US?

Rockauto has most of the seals and such listed. Be prepared to spend a few bucks if you buy it all new.

Yeah, I can't find good metal as easily as other people can. I'm pretty fast at swapping door stuff around, I think I did all 4 on my XJ in 2 hours. Yella is throwing out stuff that I would be running. :rotfl2: