RynoMJ

I’m running a Spartan in the front and a Detroit in the rear. I don’t drive it on the street though so I can’t comment on that but I can tell you the Spartan has held up great over the years no complaints.

Interesting, that's definitely in the future so not sure what I'll do when I get to that bridge. Been reading through the XJ/MJ/ZJ master cylinder thread on pirate, lots of good info in there and most guys that comment with HB really like it. I was originally just looking for an easy swap to get a better pedal. I'll have to do some more reading up on the hydroboost but right now it would require alot more to get it set up, new reservoir new lines, new master and booster. Vanco seems to have a fairly complete kit but reading that most people have luck with junkyard stuff too. Decisions decisions.

The thought has crossed my mind as one of the guys I wheel with has hydroboost. I’ve done a little reading on it and seems like it works really well for some people or horribly for others. I’m concerned the rest of my system (hydro assist) pump and what not are up to the task.

Thank you for the info I’ll look into that a little further.

I can always swap back to an XJ dual booster that’s not a big deal. Just looking to make this as easy as possible bolt up wise. What year 2500 is your master out of?

Checking on rock auto looks like Fronts are 2 pistons per caliper at 2.12” Rear 2 pistons per side at 1.77”

I have an 88 MJ with Dana 60's front and rear. I upgraded to a WJ MC and booster when I originally did the axles swap for the better brakes but I really have to push the pedal down pretty far to get this thing to stop. It does stop and holds on an incline but i really don't think the WJ master is enough for the larger brakes. Does this sound right? Is there a MC I can swap in to help with the bigger calipers. What I'm currently running: WJ booster and master load sensing valve deleted Single line ran to the rear brakes wilwood prop valve for the rear (had issues with the rear calipers getting stuck) All new brake lines combo of steel and flexible stainless Thoughts?

Going to pull everything apart flush the system. Looking to replace the MJ block with something like this? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179

So keep the stock MJ distribution block just add a prop valve before the rear. Does it send too much pressure to the rear or something? I’ve been trying to read up on this there’s alot of different information or thoughts.

I have a dana 60 in the rear and a WJ master. I've deleted the rear prop valve and currently have one line running to the rear then split at the axle. Stock distribution block. The last few times out I've had issues with my rear brakes locking up. I crack the bleeders and they loosen up so I'm believing its not a caliper issue. I'm guessing it has something to do with the stock distribution block? Any thoughts on how to correct this. Use an after market prop valve maybe? Thanks in advance.

Some of it yes.

In October 2017 I added 2x6 to the rockers. Still have problems twisting my rear drive shaft.

In September I decided I wanted to bob the bed. I ended up taking 8" out of it.

I took it on a few trips from January to August 2017.