DirtyComanche

I just used a grinder to grind down the intake manifold enough to fit. And as I said before, that won't fix an issue with the tubes fouling on the intake runners. The Renix intake has the runners much lower on it than either of the HO style intakes. If the header tubes have too gentle of a radius out of the exhaust ports they will hit the intake runners, and a grinder isn't going to fix that (not in a way that works). A stock HO header, no big deal, do a little clearance work on the flanges if need be. But why run a stock header?

easy to address. I have photos. I meant certain aftermarket ones. The tubes foul on the intake runners.

The newer knuckles are stronger.

It's an availability thing. Not all HO headers will clear the Renix intake manifold. I found that out the hard way.

A 91 up trans still isn't a bolt in, even if you swap the tcase or the tcase input gear. They used a different TV cable on the later ones, and the actual TV itself is different. Wiring also changed some at some point. It can be made to work, but don't expect it to just be a bolt in and go. And as always, be sure you retain your Renix specific flexplate.

Yup, the orings will dry out if they've been sitting for a long time. Get some new ones on there, use a dab of clean oil, WD-40, or something like that to lube them on install with the new injectors. You might want to change the one on the fuel pressure regulator at the same time, it's the same oring as the injectors themselves.

The first ones are Ford 710 (or 700, as I found), the second are the Volvo 746. The 746 are said to be better, but nobody has a straight answer as to why. Either is an upgrade. If you're seeing smoke it likely is fuel being vapourized. It's probably just the orings that are shot, but the Renix injectors are a two-piece design and are known to split and leak. Yes, you can burn your truck down with this stuff...

Moog K3128 is a pair of them. Mevotech MK3128 is a pair. AC Delco 45G8088 is a single. Personally I'd drill your arms out and go to the larger bolt, as long as they have the meat on them to allow you to do that. Up to you though. I'm betting those are JK bushings you got from Rusty's though.

On that note, if I order a clutch I will probably go with this Luk: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4694283&cc=1179996&jsn=500and the matching Luk Flywheel http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4697202&cc=1179996&jsn=540 It appears to me that it comes with a new pilot bearing, but I can't find anywhere on the interweb that specifically says it does. Looks like it's right there in the picture though. Anyone know for sure? I'm going to just order the master and line for now. They will be there about the time I get back from work. If that doesn't work (which it probably won't, it doesn't seem like the issue) I will proceed to ordering the entire clutch, I won't likely have time to do it right away anyways. Interestingly enough, the master cylinder and line that is installed looks different from any of the ones listed/pictured on Rockauto. :dunno:

On an auto the two connectors that look similar to that one near the dipstick are the NSS and TCU connectors......... That's what I think they are too... Might have an auto harness swapped in (perhaps with an engine swap), or the truck was originally an auto.

Yeah, might as well order one too. That's a good point.

You bought JK bushings, most likely. They're sized for a 12mm bolt. I'll look the correct moog part number up for you later today if I get a chance.

It worked fine this morning. All the way to the gas station, and then work, and when I moved it into the back lot (3 starts/stops). But I parked crooked. Fired it up to wiggle straight (4th start of the morning) and can't get it into 1st, grinds in reverse. I think I will swap the master, bleed again, and failing that I will buy a clutch kit, flywheel and slave.

Well, yeah, you do have a point.

So I just bled the crap out of it with a somewhat better setup. I don't think there was any air in it, but it's hard to tell. Of course it was fine on the test drive, just like when I tried this yesterday. We will see tomorrow morning.

I think 5 o'clock (imagine the gauge as a clock) would be pegged out past full. Which on a Renix, which I believe he has, would be an open circuit situation. (Full is high resistance, so infinite resistance is really really full on the gauge) That said, normally the Renix gauges don't move key on vs off. So maybe he has a HO. Or maybe the gauge is actually broken. Or maybe it's hooked to something totally random and not the fuel sending unit at all.

I thought you needed a different bellhousing to run the external slave? I'll admit I have no idea because it never occurred to me that you might be able to swap it.

Probably a 6.5" or 7" lift spring for the front. It's going to vary a bit but I'm guessing you would be able to get it level with your shackles using a spring in that range. Also, not all lift springs are advertised height, they vary a bit, and may or may not settle a bit.

Order a clutch, flywheel, and slave for a 90?

You can. I'd size the fuses according to the wire gauge.

Yeah, driving it today and it was way worse than yesterday. It's odd, but it's intermittent, and being cold (much colder this morning than yesterday) seems to make it worse. Not that it makes any sense to me how temperature would affect clutch disengagement. Either way, it is a clutch disengagement issue. I had it stopped and couldn't get it into gear, but when you bump the shifter to try to get it into gear you could feel the truck lurch a bit (synchros trying to drive the gear for engagement, I guess?). I actually had to shut it off a couple times to put it into gear, but I was intentionally pulling it out of gear at stoplights. I think you're in the right track about reused flywheel or worn clutch... I think the person who installed the tranny reused the worn/previously enjoyed Renix flywheel, and probably just threw the used AX-15 clutch at it... Everything else was more or less done wrong, so why not do that too? I'm going to get a pressurized bleeder and try that before I pull the tranny off, but I think I'll just order a clutch kit, flywheel, and probably a slave cylinder either way.

The factory bench seat is terrible and I would rather use a milk crate.

I'd suggest adding a few extra for future use (skidplates or whatnot else) while you're in there. I really regretted not putting a bunch in on my XJ when I had the floor up.

Yeah, I wish I could have found a 12+, and for that matter a Rubicon (or at least one with a rear locker) would have been better for me. It worked out though, I traded a truck I couldn't sell and didn't want for it, so one way or another I was ahead. I'll admit I'm rather attached to the stupid gutless orange bugger now, which isn't so helpful because I've got way too many vehicles and it would probably be the easiest one to sell. :rotf:

I didn't do the tranny swap on this. I bought it with the trans and tcase in it (the tcase was barely installed, I pulled it back out to do the SYE, but not a lot of confidence in the work there...) but the swap had not been completed and the truck was FWD with a bag taped over the slip yoke. All prior work has been considered to be suspect, but I didn't go as far as pulling the trans off to make sure things had been installed correctly, rather I just hit the bellhousing bolts with a wrench and gave the rest of the install a visual. If I start it in gear/clutch in, the starter isn't loaded up any more than usual or trying to pull the truck. The clutch/throwout doesn't make any bad noises or anything, it's all pretty much as per usual. I don't know where this AX-15 was sourced from, other than the tcase (presumably paired with it) was a 92, and it's internal slave 23 spline. It may well have 8 million miles on it like the D30/D44 that came with the truck (which came out of an 87 XJ). And it probably had the wrong oil in it most of its life.