DirtyComanche

I found some used Firestone M/Ts. They aren't perfect but that's what you get for being cheap.

I might have got somewhere tonight. Or it's just screwing with me. I ordered a new master cylinder and a line, since the one on there did not visually match any of the listed parts and used an integrated line. As it turns out it appears that the new Luk master is a 1" bore, and the one of unknown origins on there was a 7/8" bore. Or at least that's what it appears, short of actually pulling the piston out of them it's hard to say. Does anyone know what the clutch master bore size is supposed to be? Installing the replacement clutch line was insane. I ordered a Dorman one since I can't afford dealer parts, and I could not find any other options. It was almost the right shape, but would not possibly fit. Modifying it to fit turned into a long ordeal of chasing my tail. I was very angry at some points in this process, and may have said bad words in an outside voice. Anyways, bled it out and surprise surprise, it appears the clutch will now fully disengage. It also markedly changed the engagement point in the travel, so I'm thinking that's a good sign. Tomorrow I will try to drive it some more and see. The clutch itself may still be a roasted piece of junk even if this was actually the problem all along. Also I need to track down some new bushings for the clutch pedal pivot point, I didn't realize how sloppy they were until I was monkeying around in there trying to get the old master out.

I've been busy with other stuff. Might poke at it tonight but I can't tear it apart.

I guess the first question I should have asked was if it has ever run correctly? I mean, is this a new thing that it's running poorly, or did you just build this stroker and it's doing this? If you just built it I'm just going to step back because I don't know anything about strokers or what parts you should be running.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/49753-found-replacement-air-charge-temperature-sensor-or-iat/page-2 Has the resistance tables and the GM P/N.

I wonder what happened that the Spartan ate its pins. Normally they're pretty good, as far as lunchbox lockers go. :dunno:

The IAT is discontinued but there's a GM P/N that works, you'll just need to make an adapter pigtail, there's a thread on it somewhere that also has the resistance vs temperature values. It can be tested like any other temperature sensor with a multimeter and a thermometer (and maybe a heat source). It probably isn't the problem. As long as the IAT and CTS are ballpark it won't cause massive issues. I'm with Jeep Driver in that I want to say it's a MAP issue, or perhaps a vacuum leak causing such, as a hunch. However you have an O2 sensor on hand, even if it is suspect, so I would try it and see.

That vacuum reading is determined by the MAP sensor? Coolant temp sensor is also producing reasonable readings? IAT? Got an O2 sensor you can swap in?

Yes. But it's rare. Normally you'll see it running down the front of the booster, or onto the firewall, or puddling all over the inner fender. You can just pull the two nuts that hold the master on and slip it back to see, no need to undo the lines just to take a look. I believe they're a 13mm. 5 minute job.

If you get a HO sender it will fix it. Or vice versa.

That should be any easy fix. Might need parts of the inner fenders too, which you can bolt on if you have no ability to weld, just be sure to take care when removing them from a donor XJ. If you have any interest in going to the newer style front end, now is your chance.

The T4 is the 4spd version of the T5. They're made by Borg Warner. Out of curiosity I would try stuffing the shifter in the 5th gear position to see if it is actually a T4, it probably is, but I've heard of it happening before.

What type of paint did you use? It looks really good.

If the engine is an 88 then it's actually out of a Chevy. Jeep only used the GM 2.8L in 86 in Comanches, and 84-86 in Cherokees. GM used it for longer than that, and there was some minor differences, but I'm certainly no expert on the subject. I want to say your trans will be a T4. But umm, I might be forgetting things. I would spend some time evaluating the condition of that engine before doing much else with it. It looks like everything you have body and chassis wise is in good enough shape to fix easily, or it's stuff that can be sourced from an XJ Cherokee, so that's good news.

There's a sticky at the top of the page on opening the hood if the release breaks.

That cable might be the same, it's listed as such but I believe 84-86 is not the same as 87-90. Or you could just buy a new one for $20, which I can guarantee you fits and is plenty long. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2950014&cc=1179929&jsn=377

Some people like the smoker windows. Personally I don't. But if you're at the point you've cut two vehicles in half and welded them together, swapping to your preferred window setup is pretty minor in the grand scheme of things.

In my build thread I have pictures of making my own transfer case linkage with parts that could be sourced from any decent hardware store. I would recommend doing that over making the stock linkage work, as it is a terribly flawed design. Do you have a speedo cable for it right now? Not sure what you want to know about how it hooks up, but if you have all '89 parts (which you probably don't) it will thread into the tailhousing of the tcase, then it runs up the inside of the driver's framerail, then up the firewall and through it to the back of the cluster where it connects with a quick connect type fitting (pushes on, pull the collar back to release). Most likely you have a newer tcase and it does not have the correct drive setup in it for a cable drive speedo, clean off the round tag on the back of tcase to find what year it is and snap some pictures of it.

Replace anything that's worn out or even slightly suspect in the front axle/suspension/steering before or while installing it. My 4wd swap was started 3 owners back, so it was literally thrown together with thrashed parts, which wound up costing me a ton of time, money, and pain in the end. I did the V8 ZJ tie rod, flipped the tie rod end, and the newer style XJ drag link to upgrade the earlier junk (which was also completely worn out). I also did the ball joints and unit bearings. My brakes were okay, other than the hoses were rotten and shorter than ideal. I bought YJ hoses for the front and a Dakota hose for the rear. The only worn out parts I ultimately left were the upper control arm bushings as I wanted to replace the UCAs completely (this is actually still on the to-do list and I might do it shortly since I'm waiting for clutch parts, another thing one of the POs did improperly). I would have saved a lot of money and headache had I realized everything was thrashed, as I would have either done a large Rockauto order for every wear part, or just bought a low mile JK axle or newer XJ axle from the wrecker along with some nicer aftermarket parts. Actually I really regret not going the JK axle route, but that's a different topic entirely. Also if you're anywhere that's rusty, start putting some penetrating oil on the bolts and nuts now. I'd also suggest having all new hardware from the control arms, track bar, leaf springs, and shocks on hand.

I believe if it has a Quadratrac it will have a TH-400 even if it's a 258.

Wasn't available for an automatic :( 91 4.0 Manual 2X4 Shortbed with 225k St. Louis MO That's too bad, I knew you could get one but didn't realize it was only with the 6spd. I don't understand why they won't offer the lockers or the low range tcase as separate options for any configuration.

Hmm, makes me curious to check my collection of Moab wheels.

If the threads are hoopajuped I would buy the correct helicoil kit and not look back. You will need some access to do this properly, not sure how far apart the truck is now but be prepared to strip the header panel off and the rad out.

Looking clean so far.

I'd measure everything and not take anyone's word on what will work ideally for you. If you're running larger tires and stock fenders, you're going to want to add length to the bumpstops, and thus a longer shock may work out better than what is normally considered to be 'correct' as you're going to be limiting up travel and using the down travel. Or, if you're not going for the maximum tire size you may be bumpstopping a lot less; I actually run the stock stops, and then a shorter shock is better as it will allow for more up travel. My lower mounts are relocated slightly (I'm SOA) but I'm actually using stock length shocks.