DirtyComanche

It's a rod. It goes to the diff cover area. There's a stud for it there. 95% of ones I encounter have been disabled either intentionally or not.

It's a clamp on, yup... As to how it's held up, well, excellent so far, but I've only driven it on the street and gravel roads. I rolled my DD pickup, winter hit, and I didn't have this thing quite done so it got shoved beside the shop while I fixed my MJ up to drive instead of the rolled truck. Lots of guys run them though. Personally I'm still a little skeptical of it, but everything was so tight that I couldn't commit to a mounting location and it seemed like the best way for the time being. If it slips I can just weld it on. That said, the other downside of running the ram that way and connecting it to the midpoint of the tie rod is that it makes it more likely to bend the tierod. I don't think I'll have a problem, but it could well be an issue.

It will 'work' even if it's the wrong one. It just reads incorrectly.

I wouldn't be confident that any part on a used vehicle is genuine. Many, many stories of people buying something with a "whatever locker" and "whatever axleshafts" and "professional gear setup with quality parts" etc etc to only take it apart and realize it's a welded stock carrier or a lunchbox locker, Motive gears with a terrible pattern and .030" of backlash, Sung-Lao bearings, and a set of stock axleshafts that have been broken and welded previously or have twisted splines. If you can't see it, assume it's not right. And IMHO used offroad parts are worth pennies on the dollar. I don't know what you did to them, and often what has been done is even worse than what I could have imagined.

What happened sucks and is inexcusable. But why scrap the truck? I've seen complete common rail engines (turnkey complete) for only $4-5k. I've got two VP44 complete engines and I'm porbably going to try to get $2500-3000 for them. The rest of that truck is way too clean to give up on.

I always worry. The thing is 18 years old. If a guy like me owned it there's almost a 0% chance the factory engine is in it.

I want to say as early as late 98 they could show up... I've seen them (fail) in 99s personally. One of my apprentices has a 99 TJ with one right now. It's cracked. He ran it until it wiped out the bearings. We're going to fix it at some point.

I think there might be an outside chance that is an 0331 head and it belongs in the trash. Junkyard head from something that looks like it drove, bolt on, change oil, drive happily into the sunset.

I think I'll put it here and see how it works out. If it gets bashed up, I'll build a guard. Did you have high steer arms on yours? No high steer. Just flipped to the top of the factory arms. But the whole thing is built super low, maybe 3" of lift with 37s. Kinda the only picture I have showing it assembled, and it's a terrible picture. Image Not Found

Thank you sir! Honestly I haven't done much research into long arm setups. I hear they improve ride quality but they are more expensive. I'm not planning to do much off-roading with this truck so I don't know how much they would benefit me? Maybe something I'll consider further down the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Mostly it would be for ride quality for you. And depending on how it's set up it might actually handle better. Drop brackets might be a good option for you too. They excel everywhere but offroad. Okay, they're not terrible offroad, they're just not perfect.

I wound up building a skid/guard for my ram, I think I mentioned that before. Yours is high enough it might not really need one, even in that location. Make sure you can route the hoses properly too, it wound up being a headache on mine but it worked in the end. If all else fails, yeah, just put it on the diff cover, not the best solution but it's only one problem instead of a bunch of problems...

Figured as much. I might actually have one in storage. I should look for it.

I'll admit I was at least partially wrong. However, having a bunch of Aussie reps get bent about this has little value to me. They have everything to lose by a comparable product being offered for cheaper. Even the comment that "there is no Lokka dealers because their pricing does not leave room for a dealer" is telling. I can get a Spartan for the same price as an Aussie. I can get a Lokka for less than either. The Spartan is the best of the bunch from the standpoint of quality, so why pay the same for 2nd place? I also don't know anyone who has broken a Lokka. And I know a lot of people running them. Why? Because they're a lot cheaper (and just as fast) for us to get out of Oz than it is to get an Aussie or Spartan out of the US. Now, I do know people that broke their carrier while running a lunchbox... Which is normally the real failure point if you're abusive with that design of locker. That said as always, my posts are my opinion, you got exactly what you paid for with them, and the warranty ended before my fingers left the keys.

Where did you get a new fusebox? Or was it a junkyard pull? Mine is destroyed (clutch master) and I would like to do something about it...

Gonna order a Zip... As soon as my Yukon guy takes my money.

SBC priming tool should work. Or throw some oil down the hole and slam the disty back in, as long as the gears are wet it will probably prime...

If the switch is bad you may well not get power at that fuse.

It was buy them or completely waste money on replacing garbage 260x ujoints, or not be able to drive the truck. If they blow up they blow up, I'll order something else if it happens.

The CV shafts I bought are an alternate P/N to the ones that you have. There was factory CV shafts for early XJs with the NP228 or 229 or whatever it was. Rare. They were very small. And not good at all. There was a P/N on Rockauto for a CV shaft that fit 84-89, and I was concerned that it would be a direct clone of that early CV. Thus I bought the ZJ ones. As per the usual, more research might have answered some questions ahead of time about how the ZJ shafts would fit in a Renix era axle.

Is this it?http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=43525&cc=1181472&jnid=426&jpid=1 Looks like the right one to me!

There is generic versions of that headlight switch available. Rockauto has them for about the $20 range, I believe.

That style headlight switch is a disaster waiting to happen. But that's not the only thing that will get you. There is a rather poor ground on the cluster. If the headlight switch isn't as awesome, combined with the less than ideal ground, it will light the bulbs so poorly that you won't know they're on. Also, the 'circuit board' on the cluster can corrode around the contacts for the connectors and the bulb holders, this will add resistance and make it even worse. Again, they might actually be lighting up, just so dim you can't tell. Take everything apart and clean it first, bench test the cluster by powering the pins for the lighting, wiggle the bulb holders to make sure they have good contact, and go from there. Do the relay upgrade on the headlights either way. The stock setup is terrible.

It's unfortunate there isn't more 'hard' data on these things. I could have bought CVs that would bolt in from Rockauto (they're for the NP228 setup or something), but the assumption was that they are not as strong as the ZJ/WJ setup. I don't know about the HO era XJ/MJ CV shafts. I really do like how they run, and I could tell you right now if I was building a truck to tear up the street I would use these with a NP242 and a pair of truetracs... I bet you could hit the autocross and make jaws drop.

It's kinda out of the price I wanted to spend on this. It was recommended to me by another person though. I can get a low thrills Viair kit for about $300 cnd, which should have no issues filling my little tires or running a locker, so that's pretty much what I'm looking at.

These are cheap enough you could keep whole spares with you... Which IMHO is the only way to go with ujoint shafts anyways, because if you really break the ujoint you will wreck the yokes. I've been told that you can drive on these even if they're broken, but I'm sure it's like any other steer CV where it may lock up your steering if the wrong parts wind up wedged in the wrong places.