DirtyComanche

The real party to blame here is the mainstream media. They live by selling smut, derision, and hate. Which is what their 'contribution' to society has been for a long while now. The plain factual truth does not sell, but racial tension, fearmongering, and manufactured drama sure does.

Bodywork looks good from here. You guys got a ton done. :thumbsup:

Please don't waste money on the Teralow 4:1 kit for the NP231. They screwed up pretty bad when they designed it and it does not live a long life if you actually use it... A Rubicon tcase can be found for about the same (or less) money and makes more sense if you really want a 4:1 setup. A Blackbox/Ecobox is another good option since we don't have issues with the rear driveshaft getting too short. But if you have the money, an Atlas is never the wrong choice.

Nana nana nana nana nana nana Batbracket! Image Not Found Cut out: Image Not Found Welded on: Image Not Found And I did a spray n' pray paintjob on the axle tubes. I'll get a picture of the calipers actually mounted at some point, maybe... But either way, it looks like it works.

I won't comment on dual fans, other than to say I ran dual Taurus aux fans, it works if you want it to. I will say I think you're chasing the wrong issue. The cooling system is not behaving how it should, and I would suggest that you verify actual operating temperature by means other than the terribly inaccurate factory gauge. Gut instinct is you have an issue with your tstat, water pump, or your overflow bottle is the incorrect one, cracked, or does not have the correct or a broken drawstraw in it.

Running modern (LSx) GM truck engines can be had with the harness and computer for $1000~ if you look around, which will at least get you a modern engine with aluminum heads. Not much more to include the trans and tcase. Dollar for HP the swap tends to make a lot of sense. Expect to spend time (and money) making the cooling system happy. While a carb'd SBC is cheap swap compared to more exotic engines, the numbers just don't add up to me. You're better off buying a $500 Renix era 4L XJ and pulling everything out of it, as basically it's a bolt in swap with extremely minimal screwing around fabbing parts or modding wiring (fuel pump/sender is still an issue, but can be solved easily enough, and the rear driveshaft will need work). Power output from the 4L is comparable to an early carb'd 350, assuming the 350 is a nothing special stock everything. Even to swap in a carb'd 350 will wind up costing a fair whack of money, by the time you get the cooling system solved, motor mounts, trans mount/crossmember, adapters for the trans or tcase, new driveshafts, wiring, changes to the fuel system, engine accessories/hoses. Unless you just go king bojang on it and use whatever is lying around the farm. Also, if you go with a non-OD tranny (SM420), expect a hit in fuel economy, although fuel economy is a laughable concept with a carb'd 350 anyways.

Honestly, at that point the whole driveline is rather suspect. If the rear is a D35, I'd pull the cover on the D30 front and go looking for a new (better) rear to match the front... Might want to check all your ujoints and the tcase chain while you're at it.

Wow, that truck got mangled. What was it, a half ton Chevy?

So I've been messing around with random little things, and still pondering the rear brakes... It was too late for making massive amounts of noise tonight, so I figured I'd pull the tcase to do the SYE. Good thing I decided to pull it, there was only 5 nuts holding it on, and of that two were loose... This also made it so I could get access to the shift linkage to tear it off and throw it in the garbage. I'm not sure what the parts were from, but I'm guessing it's a Peugeot setup that was installed on an AX-15, so it wasn't even close. Tcase: Image Not Found I don't know why everything is so oily and dirty... The truck was basically not driven since this stuff was installed. Does nobody clean things before bolting them on?

So what's the point of that Knuck? It accomplishes nothing except maybe a silent protest that no one hears except yourself. But that's cool. :cheers: I don't recall the number, he'll probably know, but if the part gets X percent of the popular vote they automatically get to participate in all? of the debates the next election. Basically, it's another big step to actually being heard, and being considered a legitimate party. Or something like that, I'm Canadian, I get confused with how your system works at times. :dunno:

I was definitely disappointed by the 3rd/4th party showing. Both the mainstream parties definitely shouted "A vote for 3rd part is a vote for (Trump/Hillary)" and it seems it sunk in a bit. I personally feel it would do the US better if you wound up with 4 legitimate parties that represented something more like the 4 corners of the political spectrum.

Normally the winters cause people to leave on their own. It's like the gulags in the USSR, security was low because you would freeze or starve to death if you tried to escape.. Same concept if you try to sneak into Canada. :rotf:

No thanks.

I called it when his nomination was sealed and stuck with that belief ever since. Mixed feelings on everything. I think Southpark's take on the candidates and election process is fairly accurate. Don't watch this if you're offended by offensive adult cartoons:

You could just build a 'ramp' between the wells and drive the front of the quad over them. But otherwise, no, I don't see a reason why you couldn't do it. You might want to make sure you actually have the clearance when flexed before you commit to moving the metal that much.

Never tried it, huh?

Do you like driving a SM420? I hated driving a SM465 truck and went with a NV4500 in my Cheby. I'm not sure if you can easily bolt a NP231 to a SM420 either? I guess adapters are probably available. Pretty certain AA and Novak both make motor mounts. What year is your truck again? Renix ones don't have a PCM. I don't even know if the OBD-1 HO trucks really have one either. I'm assuming you meant a carb to EFI conversion. What system? If you get a standalone TBI setup (lots out there, Edlebrock comes to mind) you don't need much to run it, just swap in some included sensors and their distributor.

Mismatched gear ratio between the front and rear axle... Or it could be other things, but I'd start with that.

Brackets are welded onto the axle... Now for the part that's going to consume a bunch of time, and hopefully works out... Ford Explorer 8.8 rotor, Isuzu Trooper II caliper and pads: Image Not Found Just gotta make a bracket to hold it correctly. My backing plates had rust holes in them, the brake hardware was all in a pile in a box, and I hate drum brakes... So this is how it's going to go down. The Isuzu caliper is nice in that it uses a lever parking brake rather than some terrible drum in hat garbage. Anyways, all I really got done was cutting the backing plate down and opening up the center of the rotor a bit so it would fit, then eyeballing things a bit and looking at my steel pile.

If that Grand Cherokee is still there it might be worth pulling both axles... But at the very least I would take the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, head, alternator, P/S pump, brackets, etc... Ya just never know when you might need that stuff.

Got the new rear in to set the pinion angle, tack the spring perches and shock mounts, etc. Image Not Found I was going to use u-bolt eliminators originally, but I decided I'm going to hang onto them for something else, plus I manged to get the factory perches off in one piece. My shocks are kinda short, but they were really cheap... I might order some Bilsteins at some point, but I think these will be fine for now. Anyways, now to pull the rear back out and weld everything up, then try to figure out the brakes....

It depends on the generation. Some are 62" wide, others are 64" wide, I believe. The 9.25 is a good axle though. The 1500 D44 front is a pile of garbage.

I thought the Renix fuel gauge sender was 0 to 88 ohms. That's what my '88 factory Electrical Troubleshooting manual says. Yeah, I was thinking of something else that uses GM parts. They are 0-88, but it should work fine, a guy might have to pull the needle off and realign it a bit to ensure that it has an even sweep from full to low...

On the tach I'd see what the resistance range is on the adjusting potentiometer. You might be able to swap it for a different one to produce an output range that will work. Then just calibrate the tach vs a timing light or whatever the ECM is reading. Or this: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=127/category_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd127.htm Or you can probably use the tach output from the ECM and change the output via EFILive or something like that (I don't know, up to you to research that). For your fuel gauge you might be pleasantly surprised to find the GM resistance range is the same as the Renix. The Renix range (0-99 ohms) is the 'standard' GM range, as they were using GM parts. I don't know if they went away from that standard on later stuff or not though... Should be easy enough to find out.

The truck looks really good. :cheers: I think it's unfortunate you're spending the time and effort to swap in that TJ D35, for your sake I wish you had tracked down a later 8.25 or Ford 8.8 or something. Oh well, be easy on it and hopefully it will last. :dunno: