DirtyComanche

The earlier 4 cylinders were all V-belt too, so 86 for the MJ, 84-86 for the XJ, and then there's YJ parts. I'm still baffled as to what could be wrong with your P/S system. It should be able to run at 1400psi and not have a hiccup.

You could still install the kit, it would just be more work. IMHO anything is possible, but attaching stuff to the uniframe is always a pain in the butt.

This is a concern. The transmission mounting changed, and I don't know for sure if the pre-87 chassis actually had the second set of mount holes which are needed to properly locate the LA crossmember. If you have an 87 or later and a Peugeot tranny you can make it work, but you have to mod up the tranny mount as the crossmember goes too far back for it.

I dunno what that set is for. YJ? If you click the applications thing it makes almost zero sense. :rotf: I found a 92? latch at the wrecker today, no key, but the guy knows me so he just let me take it. It's different, uses the Chrysler bisexual key rather than the GM/AMC style keys, but it functions and fits the same otherwise. I'm going to take it to the locksmith tomorrow hopefully, but I might phone the big truck wrecker and the import wrecker first. They both tend to have an XJ or two in their yard (the big truck wrecker has a nice MJ that I've debated trying to save), but normally they're pretty useless if you call them. It's this style of latch, which is listed as fitting a 94, and only a 94, but the Jeep I took it from I really don't think was a 94. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cwa-4746293/overview/ They don't sell it with a key either, and I don't have a key of that style (other than for another Jeep), so it's kinda useless for me to buy that one anyways. I guess it comes with the cap to crimp it back together, so that's something.

Seems really odd still. Where were they measuring the pressure? Most pumps are set to >1000psi.

There isn't a lot of options in this part of the world... But yeah, I'm probably just going to be paying whatever it is and so be it. Or it looks like you can just rekey it yourself, the cover is a crimped on retainer for the guts of the lock. I can get the covers, just it will be cross border shipping. Doesn't fix the problem that I don't have a cylinder that isn't broken (the arm on the back of them breaks off if you're a numpty).

Uhhh, I just broke the 'good' one that I had, durr... I'm waiting to see if anyone else local comes forward, or I will go back to the junkyard and pull one without keys. I really didn't expect this to be a problem.

Not MJ tech, so I put it here... Anyone know where I could buy a hatch lock cylinder and key for a 89 XJ? I can't find a used one with the key, and can't find a listing for a new one. Oldest I'm finding is 94, and it doesn't look the same. Worst case I will take a couple of my broken ones to a locksmith, but that will probably be more money than buying one, if I can find one...

They aren't supposed to come out when the cylinder is turned. However, at this point most of them will do it... Chances are if jiggling a random key in it gets it to turn, it means you can probably just do it with a screwdriver and some jiggling... The cylinder is totally worn out at that point and needs to be replaced. If you buy the Omix-Ada one it probably comes with the incorrect keys though. I bought an Omix cylinder for my J10 and it came with GM marked keys. :doh:

I would assume cost too, I'm guessing the limited numbers they needed to produce no longer justified building the axles in house. Rule of scale. By that point I don't think they were using the model 20 in anything else as they had already gone away from it in the SJs and there was no option for a HD rear axle in the YJ, nor had they been offering a HD axle in the XJ prior to the 87 model year. They might have just been using up old stock to assemble the axles for the 86 model year MJ? Somebody on here posted a truck with an 86 truck with an abnormal but factory D44 didn't they, or maybe I'm crazy?

And a bigger ring gear, carrier, pinion, etc. Basically it's the axle that should have been used in all MJ rear applications, but that would have been too much to ask.

Is there a rule reason that makes this engine attractive? Because otherwise I see zero attraction to it. Yes, it's lighter and makes more power, but it's pretty much a complicated pile with an extremely unfriendly management system, and really not that robust.

It shouldn't be a big deal. Is something not straight, or not seating correctly, and do the bolt threads properly match the hub threads?

Valid point.

"Shaved" tailgates are all the rage with some groups, although I agree, the Jeep stamping on it is what makes it cool.

Red flag, restored by an aircraft mechanic. :rotf: It's easy to get that much money into something, if you actually stop and add up the bills. I wouldn't have done the build that way, but to each his own..

Apparently it's still out there, and is seen maybe once a year. Or so I've been told, I haven't seen a recent photo or video of it.

A few years as in oh, 2001? Yes, it's been that long. :laughin:

Chainlink buggy. Posting it requires me to reply to you by saying "Welcome to the internet."

Wow, that sucks. It could be repaired but it wouldn't be the easiest job.

Turned out it was failed ubolts. On one side they had stretched out at some point, and began working in the spring plate. Due to the nuts being rust seized I didn't catch it the last time I retorqued them, or it started since then. Anyways, the ubolts wore down until one or more of them failed, which allowed the factory spacer block to come loose and the rear axle to steer me around. They had a very clear wear taper on them that was corroded, and then a clean break where the remaining material (not much at all, 5/16" maybe) failed. Not really something that you can drive out of at highway speed. The Dodge setup with a large lift block from the factory didn't help.

Not really worth it in his case.

There is gold honeycomb and snowflake style wheels. They're terrible.

Yup. And with the older demand regulated propane setups you need very little wiring. The only wires I needed were to power the ignition, and for the starter and alternator, since I used a vacuum lockoff and you only really need the primer when the engine is quite cold. Don't get me wrong, I was happy with my setup, but it was a wheeler only at that point. Swapping bottles is a pain in the @$$ if you're driving on the street, and most permanent tanks that will fit a Comanche are bed mount and take up a ton of space.

It's not the power cut that's the issue, it's that it takes you that much more fuel to get somewhere; a gallon of propane will only get you at best 80% as far as a gallon of gasoline. There also tends to be other losses as MPFI (even the Renix setup) is quite efficient when it comes to controlling the A/F ratio, whereas the older demand regulated propane setups are just not that good. When I did my conversion I used an Offenhauser (sp?) intake meant to put a 4 barrel carb on a 258 (I just modded it a bit) and an Impco 425 mixer, Model E regulator, and a VFF30 lockoff. I don't feel there was any appreciable power loss compared to running the Renix setup with the restrictive intake manifold and throttle body. I did spend some time trying to get the timing dialed in as well as possible too, which is a big thing, you will need a good dial back timing light to do this as you're going to be running a lot of advance.