DirtyComanche

They're kinda cheap junk. And it's downright surprising how many wheels won't clear them. And like you said, there is no parts store equivalent. If you're putting many miles on I would buy a spare set to have on hand.

Or relocate the existing alternator to the Compressor location, and get it out of it's low, easy to submerge and jam with mud location, and put it way up high in the engine bay. I keep meaning to getting around to do this, haven't had a chance to hit the junkyard to find the correct bracket to start with.

Yeah, that can be the case. I've ordered parts to attempt a 'more cheaper more simpler' D44 disk brake conversion. There's a good chance I will fail at both things I'm attempting.

What are you intending to accomplish with a steering upgrade? Is it lifted so the geometry is bad, or do you want the steering to have less effort/stronger, or do you want it to be stronger in general?

I've dealt with those offset TREs before and the conclusion I've came to is I'd rather bend the tie rod than use them again... I'm guessing you need them in order to be able to install the drag link end in the WJ knuckle though?

You can live with stock control arms at 3 inches. Beyond that, either get drop brackets (if it's just for street use) or spring for adjustable control arms. Even at 3 inches I'd recommend an adjustable track bar. ^^^ At 3" there's enough room for additional shims behind the LCAs to correct your caster back to specs, so no adj. arms are necessary. 3" will also shift the axle a bit more than 1/2" off-center, so an adjustable track bar should be installed. Providing when you go to undo the lock nuts for the adjuster fork 'thinger' they don't just break off... It's a bit of a crappy design, at least if you're anywhere that has seen some salt.

I haven't done it, but apparently you can run into issues if you don't have much/any lift as the drag link is a little longer, but it's can be fixed by grinding a a bit off the threaded end of the drag link.

It should fit fine because between the drop bracket and drop pitman arm everything that's a potential issue should be fairly much where it was from the factory.

As long as it has the stock tie-rod and drag-link inverted-Y steering crap I don't think it would be an issue... Unless there is a raised track bar mount on the axle? I could see that causing issues.

Good to know, I didn't make an account since my browser autofills everything.

What Eagle said. As you've described it, you're setting it up for TDC on the exhaust stroke.

Win7 should allow for each of them to be set to a different resolution.

Even on the best resolution settings that the TV supports, it might be less than ideal picture quality. It depends what you're planning to do with it. Given you have it on hand, I'd try it out. If you don't like it you're just out some time and maybe having to buy a cable.

It can get disgustingly cold overnight in many deserts. It might actually be useful. And rich Arabs like features. :thumbsup:

Yeah, the factory riveted the seat brackets to the sliders/seat frame, so just drill them out and bolt the MJ brackets on. I think everything will become quite obvious once you find a set of good XJ seats to compare the brackets you have with.

Thanks guys, I already ordered them with the first code. Probably should have waited to see if one of those worked better though. I'm sure somebody else can use a code though. :driving:

I'm just here to say how the PO did that is really, really, really, unique. Okay, actually, the good news is that the partial piece of the seat bracket is the MJ specific bit. Or so I believe, I might be seeing it wrong. Anyways, I'm thinking you could get a regular early XJ bracket, cut it up, and graft the missing half onto it. Unless you can find the actual MJ bracket somewhere. That's also assuming there is still something on the floor to attach the bracket to, and nothing else on the floor has been modified. I would recommend welding the bracket together if you do try to piece it together with an XJ one, if you do not have the means a shop should be able to do it for very little money.

Maybe buy a timing light from this century? :rotf: I have a sorta nice digital 'dial back' (there is no dial) that also gives me RPM, and it will do it with no issue. It instantly rules out lots of bonehead problems, and you know the spark plugs are firing without zapping yourself or anything like that. I use it for setting advance curves in flyweight and spring junk, and confirming the idle, etc. Every time I pull it out I have to wipe at least half an inch of dust off it, since I use it so much, but it's sure handy when the time comes. :thumbsup:

As long as it's firing the spark plug, the timing light will show it... Doesn't have to run. Just have a helper turn the key, or jump the starter relay, or whatever, and you can see what your timing is while cranking. It won't show you if it's on the exhaust stroke though.

And just how did you do that if it doesn't start? A timing light uses a magnetic pickup on the #1 plug wire to trigger the light when the #1 plug fires. Or are you using one of the old timey lights that hook up in series with the plug wire? If the #1 cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, the spark plug will fire but the engine won't. The #1 cylinder has to be at TDC on the compression stroke when the distributor is installed and oriented. Don't ask me how I know this ... I think almost everyone that spend much time messing with engines has done that at some point.

IMHO, you want to preserve the rake if you intend to use it as a truck. Depending what's going on, adding a full length leaf to the rear packs might be be another good option. Cutting coils is a bit hilljack to say the least, but it's like leaf springs, you can tune them providing you know what you're doing. Failing all that, tell everybody that the truck is a prerunner.

Found one. Supposed to be 5% but it only worked out to about 3%, must have been some sort of exclusion with the stuff I have, but that's better than nothing. 896A54E1A1C600

Anyone got a valid discount code? Gotta order some expensive calipers...

When you cut them down the spring rate increases. You can calculate it easily enough using one of the online calculators. If you feel the front is stiff or rides poorly now, I would not suggest cutting them down. If you cut them, mark them with a sharpie, wrap a damp rag around them just above where you intend to cut them, and use an angle grinder with a thin/ultra-thin cutoff wheel (1/16" is about ideal). You just want to avoid getting them any hotter than needed.

That^^^^^^^^^ Nah, more likely it's just a bad connection. Make sure everything is tight, wiggle wires while trying it and see if anything produces a noticeable difference. If there's any options to safely swap channels/inputs/outputs around, do so. Measure the voltage at the amp under load to rule out issues there. Clean up any ground connections and check the integrity of them. Failing that I'd say the amp is a pile of junk; welcome to the reality of mass produced consumer electronics.