DirtyComanche

Applies sparingly, yes, should be fine to do that. Make a little round profile paddle (or buy one) to put it on evenly and as minimally as possible.

I could be wrong, but don't these calipers sometimes get a notch worn in them where the tabs from the pads ride, sometimes making them stick? Most often noticed when new parts are installed... Or am I thinking Chevy?

How large is the draw with the key off?

Is there anyone you trust out there, or somebody off here, that could look at it first? The problem with investing that much time/money into a potential purchase is that you will be hard pressed to walk away, even if it isn't the right truck. I don't know what to say about price other than my point on the Peugeot tranny. Beyond that it comes down to "Is it worth it to you?" That I can't answer. It's expensive, but if it's perfect and you want perfect, you may never find another one that's better...

Damn. Did you tell the new owner about this site?

Glancing over it my first question would be is there a bunch of bondo/repaint/collision damage at the back of the cab and front of the bed, just because the rubber trim bumper stuff is missing. Otherwise, looks pretty clean. See if it has a Peugeot tranny or not, price should come down if it's the Peugeot IMHO. And I'm guessing he spent money on replacement stock injectors, too bad. See what type of header he put on it too, some of them are absolute garbage.

No pulse wave modulation jazz, it just has a switched ballast resistor to quiet the pump after start, it's on the fender by the airbox. Personally my gut feeling is the stock pump should be able to produce the amount of fuel you need, but I would recommend checking on Jeepstrokers to see what guys that have comparable power output are running in regards to a pump and fuel system. I think you want a Megasquirt. There is a ton of info on them if you go to their forums. They also make it easy to use on a Jeep 4L as they have pigtails and adapters available for doing so.

What Eagle says regarding the CPS seems to be fairly common. The signal weakens as they heat up, until eventually it's not strong enough to do anything. Check out Cruiser54's tips regarding the CPS and checking the output voltage from it while cranking. Personally I would start with this and I'm fairly confident it will be the issue. If it will start/run at part throttle, the IAC is out. I don't think the EGR is your problem, it normally works as well as it's ever going to on the 4L. But you can disable it by pulling the electrical connector off the solenoid that's on the fender by the airbox; you'll see it fairly obviously as there's two vacuum lines on it and one electrical connector. You could also bypass the fuel pump ballast resistor, it's easy to do, as it's on the fender there also and you can just use some wire or whatever to short across the connector pins on it. Just don't ground it out if you do that. Otherwise it could be a bad coil, or ICM, or an overheating ECM, or many other things. Try the CPS first and we'll go from there.

Yeah, I am concerned that you fried the ECM. If it has a fuel/lift pump, is there any chance you fried it or the fuse for it? That would be not as bad, and it easily would be on a relay that is by the fan one. (No idea what a CRD Libby looks like under the hood, I imagine there's an engine, some wires, and some spinny bits and some stuff.)

Yeah, he figured you were going to be like 90% of CL buyers, ask a bunch of random things and then say "I'll think about it" and never reply again, or "I'll meet you at ...." and not show up and never reply again. Edit, reason I got my XJ for $100 was because I realized the guy was sick of regular CL buyers that don't show up. Let's just say he had a bad attitude about everything to do with trying to sell it. Once I clued into that I just said "I have a car trailer and I will bring it with me when I come to look at it. Does it work if I'm there in an hour?" Suddenly he got real nice. :rotfl2:

Oooo... Any idea what you jumpered to? Were you just trying to bypass a relay? Checked all your fuses yet?

The core is just a simple pass through, it can be plumbed either way once the heater valve is ditched That. ^^^ Hornbrod will probably chime in with which way it's hooked up on the later model versions without the valve. It would be the 'more correct' way to do it, but it won't affect function either way. There is premolded hoses made for later XJs that fit perfectly if you want to spend a few bucks, otherwise bulk heater hose (which I'm guessing you have) works perfectly fine. The premolded hoses do give a very clean look, and I will probably start buying them from now on.

Wow, that's super clean. :thumbsup: Well, other than the missing 'e' - but that's an easy fix.

Holy crap, Summit has them listed for $120. I wish I could order it, damnit, but I have to time the shipping or it gets sent back and there's no way it will work.

Open systems only should have one hose, which is a small diameter hose off the boss for the rad cap. It goes to the bottom of the overflow bottle, or to a boss in it that has a drawstraw to the bottom of it. The bottle does not pressurize, excess coolant is dumped into the bottle as pressure builds with heat. On cooling the contraction produces a vacuum and pulls the previously excess coolant back out of the overflow bottle. The overflow bottle might also have an actual overflow hose on it, for in the event there is too much coolant put on the bottle in the cold state, and it will be routed overboard. Hope that makes sense.

If it looks that bad in a CL ad, RUN AWAY!

Love that colour, my JK is very similar. You should build a shed and put all that clutter in it instead. :brows:

If it's the one I think it is, it's all the lighting circuits. Have you played around to see what is not working now?

Pretty certain the 2.5L bottle fits great (and where it should have been, the 4L HO is in a really stupid place) as long as you run an aftermarket airfilter and no airbox, or swap in the 2.5L airbox (not sure if that's feasible, not a great idea either way). I completely forgot about the 2.5L bottle and built an insane mount for the 4L HO one for my XJ, since you can't put it where Chrysler did if you have a Renix (your coil and ICM is there). I should order one for my MJ and see if I can make it fit, because it's got a goofy one up where the old pressure bottle was, and it offends me.

Yup, well then it should be fine.

That's the 2.5L bottle?

Yeah, that needs to go to an overflow bottle so the coolant in captured and returned to the system when it cools down. If I'm understanding you right, that is.

This is a Renix or a HO? The Renix and HO use a different downpipe, different collector flange and gasket, and it should be a different flange at the tranny crossmember, so it is not interchangeable.

Alright, it's not your fitting, that's good. Hopefully the relief valve piston behind it is moving smoothly and not stuck, as that can happen as a result of taking the fitting out (shoddy remans may come with it stuck!), but it's probably not the case. I don't know how the line between the reservoir and pump is run, or if it's a factory molded line or just bulk hose, but with something like that you want to make sure it has a nice even slope and minimum turns. Basically, you don't want it to look like a roller coaster, because that will trap air in it. If it's like that it's only a problem for bleeding, as once bled it will always be full of oil so it won't matter. Hence the comments on shaking/wiggling it and tapping the fittings with something that won't damage them, you just want to make sure any air bubbles in there are freed up and work their way back up into the reservoir and out of the system. I wouldn't apply vacuum to it, it's probably counterproductive actually. What would be better is if you can take the cap off and stick a piece of (clean) radiator hose over the neck for the cap, and tighten a clamp around it (and a rag to get some of the weep, it's not like it's going to seal properly), then fill it right up with oil. That will put a little more head pressure on it for the process of bleeding it with the engine off. It's probably not necessary though, but it can be a handy trick for trying to fill/bleed other unruly fluid systems.

And you did say you changed the reservoir, correct? Sorry, I'm a little scattered with my reply here. The fitting I am referring to is the high pressure outlet fitting in the pump. Behind it is the relief valve assembly. Pull the hose off and look in it with a flashlight, there should be a fairly small hole in the center of it. I have some pictures, give me a few. If bleeding it extensively does not produce good results, I would recommend taking that fitting out and seeing what is going on with the relief valve, if it is not behaving correctly it will force a massive amount of fluid through the steering box, which does not help anything.