DirtyComanche

True. Heater controls should still work too, there's a check valve in the vacuum reservoir.

2009 wasn't that long ago... Just saying. I expect things to last.

I might have missed it, what year half ton Chevy did your front brake hoses come off of?

Point #1. Hydroboost. IMHO it's almost always the answer. I didn't do it on the rig I'm building right now because I would be into it for more time than I wanted (would have to tear down the booster and port it, long story why I would need to do that, normally you wouldn't, it would consumer a lot of time), but it provides spectacular braking with tight packaging and runs off the P/S pump. Plus the boosters basically don't go bad, worst case they're a seal kit away from being good again (but that is very time consuming), so junkyard units can be had cheap and tend to work fine. I don't know what to tell you for an application, but American fullsize trucks/vans in the 3/4 ton and larger style often have them. The only other vacuum you need is for HVAC controls, which can possibly be worked around, and perhaps 4wd actuation if you have a CAD and are 4wd. #3. You can ditch the EGR. IIRC, a 3/8 NPT tap will thread the passage in the intake manifold perfectly, just stick a pipe plug in it. You can run these engine without a PCV, just put a vent filter in place of the rear hose and leave the front one running to the pre-filter side of the intake. Make sure all your seals are in good shape if you do this. There probably is a better solution though as many boosted cars use some sort of a PCV system still. The charcoal canister can be vented overboard, or you can just leave it vented into the pre-filter side.

I've always made my own. And I weld them on. Which isn't necessarily the route many people want to go. But there's no difference between an XJ and a MJ in that area, so any of the aftermarket braces will fit. I build my own because I dislike the tolerances on the holes on the aftermarket ones. They make them so they will fit, so the holes are large. If you look at the holes in the uniframe in that area, you'll see they're quite large too, for the same reason, the factory had sloppy tolerances so they wanted to make sure it would fit. I want it to be so the bolt just barely slides through the hole and lines up perfectly with the box. Plus on the latest thing I'm building the outer brace is integrated into the track bar mount and some other stuff, so it really had to be a custom jobby from that standpoint anyways.

The manufacturing processes and heat treatment are not necessarily the same, nor the quality of the base stock of metal, so no, they are not necessarily as good. If you get the heat treatment wrong (overhard to brittle) they may break with only 1/4 throttle on gravel, or if it's wrong the other way (soft) they will plastically deform after only a few hard hits and stop running true (and then either stretch out more and breaking, or loosening the ears so much the U-joint falls out and breaks them off, or take your carrier bearings out, or the splines in the carrier, or even the wheel bearings). However, those ones you quoted are Yukon seconds or blems, and aren't considered so for reasons that affect function. Or so I am told. I have bought USA Standard Gear stuff in the past. They are supposed to be decent. It's pretty hard to break a quality set of chromo shafts in a D30 without breaking something else in it.

Ouch. That's no good. How long is recovery supposed to be after removal?

The will fit the same as on an XJ.

Alright guys, enough talk, go try it and let me know how it goes. I'm curious, often things taken as gospel as impossible can be done.

:waving: There a lot like a Cherokee. Look for rust on the body, the uniframe, and the floors. Make sure there's no cracking around the steering box, leaf hangers, door hinges, etc. The 4.0L is IMHO the best engine, followed by the 2.5L, and then followed by planning to do an engine swap. AW4 auto from behind the 4.0L is pretty darn reliable, the 5spd until mid-89 is not, after that it is (AX-15). Look for general wear and tear, bojang repairs, things like a brake or clutch master eating the firewall, etc, and you can't really go too wrong. Just be wary of missing Comanche specific parts, you might pay a lot for them... Lots more posts on this if you search around in tech too. :cheers:

Interesting little trailer. You definitely neither need nor want a DRW truck to tow that though. It "should" be fairly easy to install a universal 5th wheel hitch though.

Don't do the job of a 1-ton truck with a 1/4-ton truck.

Are they going to price/package this like the Eco-diesel Ram? Probably... Argh. I DON'T WANT POWER EVERYTHING! Stripper model with lockers and a diesel, that's what I want...

AFAIK it's not feasible. I wouldn't say it isn't possible. But they did significantly change the door construction. Try it and let me know how it goes?

And make sure you weld that tube to the center section where you cut it. A lot of the support for the tube is generated by that 'cuff' area that the tube going into, since it's only the press fit and plug welds keeping it in. Try not to mangle that tube anymore either. If you score it badly and weld the scores up, it tend to warp the tube. Not a huge deal, but not super desirable either. On my setup I elected to weld the bracket to the cuff area and brace it. But I'm not using the same brackets, and there is a lot of other things that are different about the build in general.

Does your tie rod clear the track bar mount like that? I had to really move mine back. Remember you need a bolt through one of the holes too, so it will have to clear the head or the nut, if it's going to line up with it at least.

JK takeoffs are cheap/available if you're willing to go to 17s.

Sounds to me more like you just found the perfect engine donor instead. :rotf:

That looks like it should be about level, given what's missing. :thumbsup:

And that's the problem. Somebody can't weld. Therefor I, or other competent individuals, are not allowed to do it. So with that, if I plate my knuckles, making them stronger, and specifically addressing the issues with D60 kingpin knuckles cracking from street usage, well that's illegal. If I weld a sleeve over a tie rod or drag link to make it stronger, that's illegal. If I use weld in bungs in DOM tubing and use TREs that are 10X stronger than anything the factory ever offered, illegal. Build your own pitman arm because nothing off the shelf will fit correctly, illegal, so you use one that's wrong and live with bumpsteer. Add hydro assist, oh, illegal to weld the mount on, so you use a clamp one and it's probably going to slip at some point and limit your steering. And in this case guys aren't allowed to weld the flip insert ('flipsert') in, so they just stick it in there and suck the nut down. Legal. Probably okay for a while, people have reported good results doing this. Unless it starts to move at all, in which case it will wallow the hole out and eventually cause the entire insert to mangle its way out of the knuckle, which will result in at least a partial (more likely total) loss of steering. Ahhh, well, that law did a good job of protecting people. Never mind factory welded steering components and the ensuing argument about their validity. Anyways, rant off.

I'm thinking it would pretty much be junkyard only. If there isn't any local yards, I'm sure one of them will pull it and ship it to you (for a price....).

That's weird. Cam to crank timing issue?

Which is stupid, but good point.

I'm guessing they changed the mirror style and sizing, so they've covered them so Hyundai doesn't steal them for their next car. So is this a whole new platform? Or is it still a JK? The idea of a turbo diesel does something for me, along with lightening up the fat pig that the JK is. Edit. You called it a JL. So I'm guessing new platform. I wonder what, if anything interchanges.

If it was a 1" lift spring it would not require a longer shackle. Deaver probably has some screws loose if they told you that. Judging by how good of a job they did making these springs, well, they just might... Keep the shackles if you want, it's not like its going to matter.