DirtyComanche

Herculiner or just in general? Mind if I ask why if its just in general? In general. I did my own MJ, but I've done a couple vehicles since then for people using different products. The last one was a 91 Toyota pickup. If you're going to do heinous body work and want it covered, sure, it's the way to go, and with that truck it certainly was the case. It's just always going to look dirty, unless you pressure wash it all the time, and I just can't stand it. And if it does rust under it, you won't get any symptoms until it's quite terrible, and then it's really terrible to get it off to do anything about it. I'd go with a cheap Macco paint job, you do the prep. At least I'm assuming you can still get a Macco paint job in the US for very little money. Or I'd just buy a cheap gun and go at it with implement paint (rent a compressor if you need to). Or find somebody other than Macco that will spray it if you do the prep. Or even, gasp, Valspar with a roller and add the hardener. If your paint is intact you could try cutting it and polishing it too. It would blow you away what some of the products out there can do.

Looks like your gantry crane could use a new crossbar!

I did it once and would never do it again.

Just don't smash the crush sleeve any tighter when you torque the pinion nut and it will be fine. Normally the crush sleeve needs a fairly ridiculous amount of torque to crush, so you can put locktite on the threads and torque the nut to a 'safe' number, stake it, and it won't change a thing. You can also put a witness mark between the nut and pinion before you take it apart, thus you can see if you're going to tighten it too much.

A plugged cat can also make it run hot, if you have one and it's been in there a long time. One of those things that people don't think about because it is not at all related to the cooling system. Normally you get low power associated with that though. Is it an oiled air filter? I would not recommend running one if it is, but that's not related to your cooling problem.

Right on, I hope it works out for you. :cheers:

You took out the thermostat? Because otherwise it sounds 'normal.' Your gauge probably reads wrong. Unless sitting still and idling it just gets hotter and hotter. But I would have done the water pump, or at least pulled it off and looked at it, before adding a pusher fan. Try revving it up while you're stopped (in park/out of gear) and see if the temperature comes down at higher RPM, if so that's a classic sign that the water pump is on its way out or potentially obstructed.

I forwarded you the pictures the PO sent me. IMHO it will need some metal work done around the door, and I'm not sure how solid the rockers are, and it's hard to say what you would find when you pull the flares off the box. And yeah, it was bought and sold a dozen times or something. One of those things where people go "Cool, I'm going to buy that!" and then realize the engine is junk, and it's a bit of work/money to swap something else in...

If I had a place to park it for some time, I would buy it. How far is it from you? Any chance you could look at it? It's about 8-10 hours of driving and a 2~ hour ferry ride and another 30-45 minutes of driving after that, assuming it's actually in Victoria. I don't live in the part of BC that anyone else does. :rotf: There's a reason I didn't make the trip to get it before. The previous owner sent me a bunch of pictures. I'd have to see if I still have them.

If you have flow there, but not through the top hose, your thermostat is probably stuck. Which makes sense if that stuff is all through the cooling system. Alternatively the radiator might be completely plugged, or the water pump outlet is plugged, but those are unlikely unless somebody left something in there at some point. Take things apart and flush it. You might not need to change the heater core, but unless you can get it flushed out it will probably never make good heat.

No coolant comes out of that while running? I don't know what the grainy stuff is, it could just be that hard water was used to mix with glycol, but it probably isn't a good thing. I'd take everything apart and flush all of it with a hose and see where you're at. That includes pulling the thermostat housing, the water pump, upper and low rad hoses, expansion bottle, heater lines, etc. If things are all packed with that sort of junk, then you can try cleaning it out chemically or by continued flushing, but you might be in a bad situation where you're going to be replacing a lot of stuff.

If you're going for performance, I suggest getting a HO head, and a late HO intake and throttle body. Or even the early HO intake. Basically everything is better than the Renix stuff.

Somebody buy it. The body is good enough that it is very workable. Argh.

Somebody was posting from their phone. You can swap them, but the bolt pattern is different and the TPS works differently. You can either change to the newer intake, or build an adapter plate out of a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum. The Renix TPS can be adapted for very little money using the tang from the original throttle body, some standoffs, washers, or nuts for spacers, and some new screws. The IAC is the same part and bolts on. If you use the new intake, you will need a new throttle cable, and you may have to mod up the bracketry to get the TV cable to work if you have an automatic. Like all swaps, YMMV.

Dorman sells them under their Help! brand, so you can get them at Napa/whatever normally. P/N 14689 Edit. Common names is 'Axle vent' or 'Transmission vent' or 'Transmission case vent' or 'Gearbox vent'

I bet there will be a more upright grille offered by the aftermarket within 3 months of them being on the dealer lot. Plus an Angry Birds one, an Optimus Prime one, and a Bro-Brow version, as the JK currently has.

Yup. Order online ahead of time for all scheduled maintenance. Better service, better price, and nobody asking me why every part I need is from a different year/make/model.

You can crimp them with a normal open barrel crimper if you know what you're doing... I rewired my entire plow truck from scratch doing that. However, if I'm ever to do that with another vehicle I'll buy the damn crimper, just to save time.

Most diesel exhaust manifolds are plenty thick to just drill and tap.

The schematic shows the LED negative leg hooked to positive. I'm guessing because they don't care and didn't want to flip the icon. But the arrow in a diode or LED icon points positive to negative. And I meant PCM, as I am familiar with the Dodge transmission identifiers, although I don't know if you could damage anything. I could be wrong, but the 6 is for relative input torque/rated GVW. A 2 would be weaker, a 7 or 8 stronger. My spare Dodge truck has a 47RE in it, the one before that had a 47RH, which are similar to the 46RH but with a bigger input, different gear cut, and clutch pack differences (and obvious the RE is electrically controlled).

IMHO, unless I don't understand what they're doing, they drew the LED incorrectly in their own schematic, and you have copied that. It should be the other way around. As for figuring out which lead on the LED is positive, it's the longer lead, or the one opposite the side with a flat on it, or you just test it with a battery and be done with it. Anyways, otherwise I'm thinking you've got it right. Hopefully you can test it without risking the TCM.

For bleeding air?

Jiggle valve?

Were the t-stats bad, or did you gum them up on install? I've had people tell me that they will always put a new t-stat in a pot of water on the stove to confirm function before install... Personally I think that's crazy, but I guess it happens.

That might be a wrecker part... Pretty weird connector, I'm guessing it's proprietary/dealer only at best.