DirtyComanche

Somebody buy it. The body is good enough that it is very workable. Argh.

Somebody was posting from their phone. You can swap them, but the bolt pattern is different and the TPS works differently. You can either change to the newer intake, or build an adapter plate out of a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum. The Renix TPS can be adapted for very little money using the tang from the original throttle body, some standoffs, washers, or nuts for spacers, and some new screws. The IAC is the same part and bolts on. If you use the new intake, you will need a new throttle cable, and you may have to mod up the bracketry to get the TV cable to work if you have an automatic. Like all swaps, YMMV.

Dorman sells them under their Help! brand, so you can get them at Napa/whatever normally. P/N 14689 Edit. Common names is 'Axle vent' or 'Transmission vent' or 'Transmission case vent' or 'Gearbox vent'

I bet there will be a more upright grille offered by the aftermarket within 3 months of them being on the dealer lot. Plus an Angry Birds one, an Optimus Prime one, and a Bro-Brow version, as the JK currently has.

Yup. Order online ahead of time for all scheduled maintenance. Better service, better price, and nobody asking me why every part I need is from a different year/make/model.

You can crimp them with a normal open barrel crimper if you know what you're doing... I rewired my entire plow truck from scratch doing that. However, if I'm ever to do that with another vehicle I'll buy the damn crimper, just to save time.

Most diesel exhaust manifolds are plenty thick to just drill and tap.

The schematic shows the LED negative leg hooked to positive. I'm guessing because they don't care and didn't want to flip the icon. But the arrow in a diode or LED icon points positive to negative. And I meant PCM, as I am familiar with the Dodge transmission identifiers, although I don't know if you could damage anything. I could be wrong, but the 6 is for relative input torque/rated GVW. A 2 would be weaker, a 7 or 8 stronger. My spare Dodge truck has a 47RE in it, the one before that had a 47RH, which are similar to the 46RH but with a bigger input, different gear cut, and clutch pack differences (and obvious the RE is electrically controlled).

IMHO, unless I don't understand what they're doing, they drew the LED incorrectly in their own schematic, and you have copied that. It should be the other way around. As for figuring out which lead on the LED is positive, it's the longer lead, or the one opposite the side with a flat on it, or you just test it with a battery and be done with it. Anyways, otherwise I'm thinking you've got it right. Hopefully you can test it without risking the TCM.

For bleeding air?

Jiggle valve?

Were the t-stats bad, or did you gum them up on install? I've had people tell me that they will always put a new t-stat in a pot of water on the stove to confirm function before install... Personally I think that's crazy, but I guess it happens.

That might be a wrecker part... Pretty weird connector, I'm guessing it's proprietary/dealer only at best.

Can you get a bar level on things and see if they're the same height that way? If your cab is leveled, you should just be able to go across between the bolt holes. Might have to cut some random scraps of angle iron or something and clamp them in place to set the level across, but you should be able to tell. Just a thought, I'm sure you'll figure it out after you think on it a bit.

If you have some solder wick you can just take those ones right off. Otherwise, get a better closeup picture of them, I can kinda read the resistor (or you can google the chart) but would like a better picture. It looks like Blue, Yellow, Brown, Gold, which is 640ohms 5% tolerance. I can't make out the diode enough to even give you a guess even.

I hate to ask but,,,,why not? :???: , I pulled a dash from the JY months ago and did this. I just riveted the new VIN plate to the replacement dash. It's technically illegal in most places. You probably shouldn't admit you did that. IMHO, who cares, no ill intent in doing it. Make sure you use the right rivets and it looks good... Here if you replace the driver's door, dash, frame, and any other VIN tagged location (firewall and core support in our application) on a vehicle, you're supposed to get the local insurance/licensing monopoly involved, and they will inspect it and typically issue an entirely new VIN and lighten your wallet in the process. Which makes no sense, so nobody does that. Most of the vehicles I buy are old (and junk) and I find at least one missing VIN or mismatch, and I haven't gone to jail yet, nor has the sky fallen on me.

The problem is it isn't that simple. You can tune to make a lot of smoke without it getting hot. Or you can tune it so it's very hot but not showing a lot of smoke. I'd put the probe in pre-turbo; accuracy matters. Post-turbo the correlation of measured temperature vs actual EGT is not completely linear and can be affected by a lot of factors that will be unknown in this case.

I just went and measured my XJ one. Definitely 2.75" - really curious what the story is on yours, but like you say it's in and works, so it doesn't much matter now.

Without an SYE you just want the pinion pointing 1-2* up. Set the pinion to that with an angle finder, just plunk it on the flange straight up and down, measure side-side of the brake backing plates/caliper mounts (just be consistent with what you do, do not measure anything off the center section or pinion as it is offset), set the perches level with the angle finder. Perches are 42" center-center, IIRC. I recommend buying a digital angle finder. If you take it to a welding/fab shop they should have no issues doing all of this stuff with minimal instruction though, and they should have adequate tools to measure this stuff. And I can't comment if you'll have an issue moving the axle back. Gut feeling is it won't matter, the tire might not be perfectly centered in the wheelwell though.

Might be something in the rad that's plugging it up... Rag, rubber glove, shipping plug, etc. It would be worth it to pull that rad off and try backflushing it with a hose before buying a new one.

You're going to leave it 2wd, and without lift? Because it can be figured out without installing the axle.

Buy the cheapest 80W90 or similar gear oil you can find. You might want to grab the yoke and see if it has any play in it. If you can wiggle it side/side and up/down, the pinion bearings are shot or the preload has come off them, and the axle might well explode in really short order.

I'm curious how you did it, not that I have any interest in doing it myself.

You should have taken a picture of the VIN. But yeah, interesting truck. Certainly worth pursuing.

Does it boil over? Might just be an indicating problem, as you're saying with your gauge acting up.