DirtyComanche

Did it run before you replaced the tank and pump?

Normally you can just weld them up without doing anything special, the metal is plenty thick. Most of the flex pipe stuff is meant to be welded in, but some can/should be clamped. It depends on the style.

I believe you can still order a GM 1 ton truck with a 6spd. You could as of a few years ago at least. They're hens teeth used, but they're out there, pretty fun combo of the Duramax and a 6spd manual.

I wouldn't go out of my way to source a NV3550. The Teralow is a pile of junk. I wouldn't run one if it was given to me. Go with the NP241OR, It is actually reliable. The Teralow has an unpublished maximum input speed while in low range, and it's quite low. The Teralow absolutely won't last behind a doubler. The NV241OR, well, it should, although you're definitely asking a lot of it. I have a NWF EcoBox and Ford NP205 in my XJ. Yes, it will mate up, that's the intention of it. They actually won't recommend that you use an aluminum case behind it, if you really ask. There is serious downsides to this setup. You can't clock the NP205 up high enough to get anywhere near a flat belly, unless you're super short or willing to run some terribly uncomfortable race seat, and that's after cutting the entire mount boss off the NP205 and plating over it. I modified my seat mounts extensively, and spaced the seat up, along with doing a massive realignment and patch job on the floor. Clocked as is, it moves the driveshaft over a bit to the driver's side vs a NP231, which probably won't cause you any issues, but coupled with my front axle it meant the entire floor had to be cut out and changed. It also might be hard to fit your typical long arm setup in, but YMMV, my XJ is very low for the tire size (maybe 4" lift at most). Also, the entire doubler and tcase setup is something in the range of 175lbs (I'd have to look, I have the exact number somewhere), which means you're absolutely not going to get away without having a second mount, and it's just heavy in general (keeping a vehicle light is extremely helpful for everything). You really will need to go to polyurethane motor/trans/tcase mounts to deal with the torque. Also, there isn't an actual regular twin stick shifter available off the shelf for this setup, just cable shifters, which I hate, so I spent a bunch of time/money making a twin stick setup for it. You'll need a speedometer adapter from PATC, I can get you the P/N if you want. To do it over I'd just buy an Atlas, honestly, I have way too much time and money into this once you figure out all the monkeying around with cutting holes in things, rebuilding things, and fabbing one off parts.

Honest opinion. It isn't worth it to go to an aftermarket header. Just have the stock one welded. Or buy one of those really cheap stock replacement ones that perform worse than the OEM part. The problem with the Renix is that it uses its own header, as it has both an EGR and O2 bung in it, so the HO ones will not exactly work. If you can delete your EGR (not sure if that's really an option for you, since you have emissions testing) and go to a HO header and downpipe/midpipe, it opens up a lot of options for aftermarket exhaust. Otherwise you're pretty much stuck with Walker replacement stuff, or having it made, or making it yourself. There is some power to be gained by going to a good aftermarket header, but I don't feel it's great bang for the buck, and many of them are troublesome to fit and have the same cracking issues as the OEM part. Also, some of the HO aftermarket headers will not clear the Renix intake manifold, and some will not even clear the early HO intake manifold. I run into more trouble than I wanted when I bought a cheap Amazon stainless HO header and bolted it onto my Renix engine, wound up having to convert to a HO intake plus do some custom clearancing. I wound up building my entire exhaust system using a couple sections of 2.5" straight pipe and some J-bends that I bought from Summit, since I wanted stainless and the local shop quoted me $1000 for materials alone. (I think it was under $100 for all the material from Summit, with leftovers).

It will probably be easy for you to just swap all of the 95 XJ stuff in, including the manual transmission. The AW4 automatic is a very good transmission though, so if you wish to keep it you certainly can. However, there will be wiring differences that you will need to address, and I'm not sure how easy it would be for you to find an automatic wiring harness that would be compatible in your part of the world.

There definitely is a difference in quality between Moog and the discount junk. That said, is it good value with the price difference? I don't know, but for harder to change parts I feel it is worth it to avoid having to do a job again sooner. There isn't any reason that parts made in Chindia can't be good, but it is up to the manufacturer to actually have and enforce QC standards.

Exhaust leaks are not likely to throw off the O2 sensor, as the pressure in the exhaust is normally higher than ambient (as in, the exhaust leaks out, not clean air leaks in). Your header is probably cracked up in the back where a couple of the tubes join, they all do that over time. If it's a really massive leak (one of the tubes has broken right off) it could possibly be affecting things though.

Any idea how different this is from the comparable V8 ZJ part?

Good to see this thing is still around. :cheers:

You'll need a Photobucket account or something like that. Check this out: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/

I hate exhaust work. Good luck.

Yeah, kinda. If you can see the pattern on the gears you can just adjust so the pattern is the same. I would then verify that backlash is still in spec, you only need a cheap dial indicator and magnetic base to do it. If you can't tell the pattern you're kinda screwed. Adjust to the best pattern with backlash in spec and run it to see if it is quiet or not, it may be fine or you may have to do trial and error changes from there to get it quiet. If the shop that set it up recorded what the backlash was set to you can just return it to that also.

Factory?

The vacuum lines on the airbox air for the intake heater valve junk. You can delete all of it, as it won't be doing anything with a CAI. Be sure to cap/plug it at the manifold. No comment on the floorboards.

Get you a cover for the front and rear for $200. Pricey, but a better deal than otherwise. Debating ordering a D30/D44 set for either my JK or MJ. Maybe I should just order two sets. :rotfl2:

I've already purchased an SYE kit for it. I'm retroactively updating this thread, as I've knocked out a ton of work on the build so far. I just haven't had the time to post! :thumbsup:

Oh, that newer style tcase uses a different slip yoke than your 2wd driveshaft, if you were just planning on getting the 2wd driveshaft shortened.

Oof, I'd send the front housing to a sandblaster, or go at it with a knotted wire wheel, because that's some heavy scaling on it.

I think you can just use yogurt containers to make caps for those, if you're umm, cheap. If you measure the hub bore diameter on them you can size any universal 5 bolt cap to fit (the type that go on before the wheel).

Looks like the body is in good shape, should be a great starting point. :cheers:

Image Not Found There's enough space in the back. ;)

Make sure the track bar is set to the correct length so the axle is centered before you do anything else. The steering wheel is adjusted to center by lengthening the drag link. Set toe first by adjusting the tie rod. Drop pitman arms are not a good idea unless you have a drop bracket for the track bar on the frame side, or a bracket on the axle that relocates that side higher.

There's really nothing revolutionary about replacement control arms, and it looks like their build quality is fine, so there isn't any likelyhood of being an issue with them. I was going to buy those for my upcoming MJ project, but I found a used LA kit instead.

I've always liked the look of the visor.