DirtyComanche

It will probably be easy for you to just swap all of the 95 XJ stuff in, including the manual transmission. The AW4 automatic is a very good transmission though, so if you wish to keep it you certainly can. However, there will be wiring differences that you will need to address, and I'm not sure how easy it would be for you to find an automatic wiring harness that would be compatible in your part of the world.

There definitely is a difference in quality between Moog and the discount junk. That said, is it good value with the price difference? I don't know, but for harder to change parts I feel it is worth it to avoid having to do a job again sooner. There isn't any reason that parts made in Chindia can't be good, but it is up to the manufacturer to actually have and enforce QC standards.

Exhaust leaks are not likely to throw off the O2 sensor, as the pressure in the exhaust is normally higher than ambient (as in, the exhaust leaks out, not clean air leaks in). Your header is probably cracked up in the back where a couple of the tubes join, they all do that over time. If it's a really massive leak (one of the tubes has broken right off) it could possibly be affecting things though.

Any idea how different this is from the comparable V8 ZJ part?

Good to see this thing is still around. :cheers:

You'll need a Photobucket account or something like that. Check this out: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/

I hate exhaust work. Good luck.

Yeah, kinda. If you can see the pattern on the gears you can just adjust so the pattern is the same. I would then verify that backlash is still in spec, you only need a cheap dial indicator and magnetic base to do it. If you can't tell the pattern you're kinda screwed. Adjust to the best pattern with backlash in spec and run it to see if it is quiet or not, it may be fine or you may have to do trial and error changes from there to get it quiet. If the shop that set it up recorded what the backlash was set to you can just return it to that also.

Factory?

The vacuum lines on the airbox air for the intake heater valve junk. You can delete all of it, as it won't be doing anything with a CAI. Be sure to cap/plug it at the manifold. No comment on the floorboards.

Get you a cover for the front and rear for $200. Pricey, but a better deal than otherwise. Debating ordering a D30/D44 set for either my JK or MJ. Maybe I should just order two sets. :rotfl2:

I've already purchased an SYE kit for it. I'm retroactively updating this thread, as I've knocked out a ton of work on the build so far. I just haven't had the time to post! :thumbsup:

Oh, that newer style tcase uses a different slip yoke than your 2wd driveshaft, if you were just planning on getting the 2wd driveshaft shortened.

Oof, I'd send the front housing to a sandblaster, or go at it with a knotted wire wheel, because that's some heavy scaling on it.

I think you can just use yogurt containers to make caps for those, if you're umm, cheap. If you measure the hub bore diameter on them you can size any universal 5 bolt cap to fit (the type that go on before the wheel).

Looks like the body is in good shape, should be a great starting point. :cheers:

Image Not Found There's enough space in the back. ;)

Make sure the track bar is set to the correct length so the axle is centered before you do anything else. The steering wheel is adjusted to center by lengthening the drag link. Set toe first by adjusting the tie rod. Drop pitman arms are not a good idea unless you have a drop bracket for the track bar on the frame side, or a bracket on the axle that relocates that side higher.

There's really nothing revolutionary about replacement control arms, and it looks like their build quality is fine, so there isn't any likelyhood of being an issue with them. I was going to buy those for my upcoming MJ project, but I found a used LA kit instead.

I've always liked the look of the visor.

Swapping the speedo is pretty easy if you have another cluster to pull one out of. It's just in there with screws.

Or just buy these: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/UB3.html

You can get u-bolts made locally, often not for a lot of money. Check out a spring shop. I just use 5/8" ones for everything, better too strong than not strong enough.

They're only good for that. And cat pictures.

It's for an automatic. Inability to start the thing at all, and the backup light issue.