DirtyComanche

A what?

What's a 1 Ton Dana 44 axle? They used to use D44s and such in 1-ton trucks. But that was a long time ago. And probably not what he's talking about. Metric Ton D44 rear???

Yup. I still remember running into clean MJs, FSJs, etc, that I could have bought but didn't. Instead I own junk, and work on junk.

Yes.

I'm sure you can still swap new front end parts onto that. The only difference in them is that mounting stud. They even molded in the area where it mounts on the later ones.

It's all coming back now. That is the style that I only dealt with once, on an 86 model. Definitely threw me for a loop when I ran into it. I don't typically deal with anything that early, or anything 4cyl.

I don't know the answer, but a M10x1 is close to a 3/8-UNC. The M10x1 pitch is a bit different, but very close, and it's just slightly larger in diameter, thus typically you can easily thread a 3/8-UNC into a M10x1 nut/insert (but not normally the other way around).

IIRC, the ones that don't have a top stud/nut going into the fender use another bracket on the top or inside. I've only seen it once and it was a collision repair special, so it might have been a one off. And that was a long time ago... So keep looking around.

Right on. Good to see her out of the cage. :cheers:

Not likely. Most of them aren't the same in critical aspects, being width and lug pattern. Car applications are also unlikely.

I'm sure it's a case of the image being a generic product representation.

They could even be the right u-bolts and they're just splayed out a bit. They're not exactly a dimensionally critical part and its common for then to only be close. I assumed he had measured the tubes with a caliper or squares.

That starter makes more torque than the 2.5L it's bolted to...

If you just pull the vent line off and fire it up, does it puke oil? As long as it is dry out, you can go for a drive without the vent line on with very minimal risk. If it does not puke, that may be all your problem is. If the seal is broken it could have been defective, or there is a score/burr that's cutting it. If I'm visualizing this correctly, that's the one that rides on the torque converter? If there was paint on the converter where it rides, that can do it even. Also, your converter might be cracked, or the crimp came apart, depending on design and construction. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good.

If you don't want to test pressure, you can at least verify if the injectors are firing or not. The preferred method is to use a NOID light, or a test light, or a multimeter with fast reaction or frequency capability. Pull all the connectors off, hook the NOID light up to #1 (or whatever) connector, crank engine and observe consistent blinking. Same with a test light. A good (if there is such a thing) analog meter will throw the needle back and forth on DC voltage, a good digital meter will show the pulses on voltage (it's not super fast) or you can get a low frequency reading on it using A/C frequency. Or you can pull the rail off, leave everything else hooked up, and crank and see if any fuel is coming out. If you burn your truck/garage/house/neighbourhood down doing this, please don't blame me.

I missed that. Yeah. That doesn't work.

Did the seal 'blow' or did it fall out? Stuff wears out, things aren't made to spec, and the factory may not have just put the seals in dry. I put new seals in with RTV on them when things get old, seems to help most of the time. But I'd check your vent line and the little vent cap thing too.

So this only happens when hot? It will run every time after it cools down? And it's definitely not overheating the injector rail or fuel lines and causing vapour lock?

You're right. It looks quite wrong when you see it up close.

I don't trust that truck as being rust free. Well, it might not have any rust on it now, but I bet they wire wheeled the rust off the lower quarters before they put that liner on it... Hopefully they did it right or it will still bubble through. That said, it looks solid to me and I'm thinking if you got it for $2k it would be good. Be prepared to spend some time learning what's happened with the swap in it, nothing like trying to get a wear part and not knowing which year/model you need.

Yeah, you could just cut the rubber hose and use a double ended barb, however, typically if the hoses are original (which they normally are) the rubber will have gone very soft and it will be weeping around the crimp connector. I just cut it off with a brake tubing connector and put a small 45* flare on the end, it's just to make it so the line can't slip off, decent hose clamps will seal correctly without a barb. This is not textbook correct but has always worked for me. If I owned one of those fancy flaring tools to do barbs/push connect flares I would use that, IE this one from Mastercool: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring-Tool-Set/dp/B00063YR2I If you wanted to get more fancy there is other options. You can get a metric to AN adapter fitting that threads into the transmission, and then run AN fittings/stainless hard lines/braided hose. I've been debating buying them for the future, but it adds up to a bit of money for all the needed fittings, and you would need a 37* flare tool to flare the cooler for an AN fitting.

I'm not certain, but do Cruiser's ground cleanups and such, check the CPS output for the sake of it, and maybe verify that the MAP and IAT are ballpark correct, because if you have spark and the injectors are not firing at all it isn't good (broken wire, bad ECM, maybe some things I don't know about).

Try bypassing the fuel pump ballast resistor, it's a white porcelain block with two wires and a mount bolt, on the driver's fender up front, by the EGR solenoid thinger and airbox. Just pull the two connectors off and shove them together with some bailing wire or something. I wouldn't say I'm on the right track with that, but it takes 5 seconds to do.

Won't turn over = won't crank = starter isn't turning = not a fuel problem. I'm assuming you mean it will crank, but will not fire or run?

you wouldn't happen to have a part number for the clip and orings, would you? Oreillys full of idiots and had never heard of it before. I'm not home, so I can't check for sure. But they're GM disconnects, don't ask for AMC/Jeep because the parts guys don't know they used them. But I believe the clip you want is a Dorman 800-006, they come in a package of 5. The 800-013 o-ring pack should work, but I don't know much about automotive o-rings and normally use aircraft ones. There is a few different styles of disconnects though, so it can be hard to match them up. http://www.dormanproducts.com/documents4rb/135-145QuickDisconnectBuyersGuide.pdf But I'm serious when I say I would replace it with bulk hose and clamps. They're not actually quick disconnects, rather they're quick connects, so the factory could put things together faster/easier. If you take them apart without replacing the clips and o-rings, more often than not they will leak or come undone and blow the line off, so there's nothing quick or good about them. I cut the hard line off where they crimped the hose onto it under the engine, clean it, put a flare on it, and then use 3/8 transmission cooler line. The nipple for the quick connecter to go on at the cooler is conveniently already flared perfectly for use with regular hose.