DirtyComanche

You're going to leave it 2wd, and without lift? Because it can be figured out without installing the axle.

Buy the cheapest 80W90 or similar gear oil you can find. You might want to grab the yoke and see if it has any play in it. If you can wiggle it side/side and up/down, the pinion bearings are shot or the preload has come off them, and the axle might well explode in really short order.

I'm curious how you did it, not that I have any interest in doing it myself.

You should have taken a picture of the VIN. But yeah, interesting truck. Certainly worth pursuing.

Does it boil over? Might just be an indicating problem, as you're saying with your gauge acting up.

A what?

What's a 1 Ton Dana 44 axle? They used to use D44s and such in 1-ton trucks. But that was a long time ago. And probably not what he's talking about. Metric Ton D44 rear???

Yup. I still remember running into clean MJs, FSJs, etc, that I could have bought but didn't. Instead I own junk, and work on junk.

Yes.

I'm sure you can still swap new front end parts onto that. The only difference in them is that mounting stud. They even molded in the area where it mounts on the later ones.

It's all coming back now. That is the style that I only dealt with once, on an 86 model. Definitely threw me for a loop when I ran into it. I don't typically deal with anything that early, or anything 4cyl.

I don't know the answer, but a M10x1 is close to a 3/8-UNC. The M10x1 pitch is a bit different, but very close, and it's just slightly larger in diameter, thus typically you can easily thread a 3/8-UNC into a M10x1 nut/insert (but not normally the other way around).

IIRC, the ones that don't have a top stud/nut going into the fender use another bracket on the top or inside. I've only seen it once and it was a collision repair special, so it might have been a one off. And that was a long time ago... So keep looking around.

Right on. Good to see her out of the cage. :cheers:

Not likely. Most of them aren't the same in critical aspects, being width and lug pattern. Car applications are also unlikely.

I'm sure it's a case of the image being a generic product representation.

They could even be the right u-bolts and they're just splayed out a bit. They're not exactly a dimensionally critical part and its common for then to only be close. I assumed he had measured the tubes with a caliper or squares.

That starter makes more torque than the 2.5L it's bolted to...

If you just pull the vent line off and fire it up, does it puke oil? As long as it is dry out, you can go for a drive without the vent line on with very minimal risk. If it does not puke, that may be all your problem is. If the seal is broken it could have been defective, or there is a score/burr that's cutting it. If I'm visualizing this correctly, that's the one that rides on the torque converter? If there was paint on the converter where it rides, that can do it even. Also, your converter might be cracked, or the crimp came apart, depending on design and construction. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good.

If you don't want to test pressure, you can at least verify if the injectors are firing or not. The preferred method is to use a NOID light, or a test light, or a multimeter with fast reaction or frequency capability. Pull all the connectors off, hook the NOID light up to #1 (or whatever) connector, crank engine and observe consistent blinking. Same with a test light. A good (if there is such a thing) analog meter will throw the needle back and forth on DC voltage, a good digital meter will show the pulses on voltage (it's not super fast) or you can get a low frequency reading on it using A/C frequency. Or you can pull the rail off, leave everything else hooked up, and crank and see if any fuel is coming out. If you burn your truck/garage/house/neighbourhood down doing this, please don't blame me.

I missed that. Yeah. That doesn't work.

Did the seal 'blow' or did it fall out? Stuff wears out, things aren't made to spec, and the factory may not have just put the seals in dry. I put new seals in with RTV on them when things get old, seems to help most of the time. But I'd check your vent line and the little vent cap thing too.

So this only happens when hot? It will run every time after it cools down? And it's definitely not overheating the injector rail or fuel lines and causing vapour lock?

You're right. It looks quite wrong when you see it up close.

I don't trust that truck as being rust free. Well, it might not have any rust on it now, but I bet they wire wheeled the rust off the lower quarters before they put that liner on it... Hopefully they did it right or it will still bubble through. That said, it looks solid to me and I'm thinking if you got it for $2k it would be good. Be prepared to spend some time learning what's happened with the swap in it, nothing like trying to get a wear part and not knowing which year/model you need.