DirtyComanche

Can you get a bar level on things and see if they're the same height that way? If your cab is leveled, you should just be able to go across between the bolt holes. Might have to cut some random scraps of angle iron or something and clamp them in place to set the level across, but you should be able to tell. Just a thought, I'm sure you'll figure it out after you think on it a bit.

If you have some solder wick you can just take those ones right off. Otherwise, get a better closeup picture of them, I can kinda read the resistor (or you can google the chart) but would like a better picture. It looks like Blue, Yellow, Brown, Gold, which is 640ohms 5% tolerance. I can't make out the diode enough to even give you a guess even.

I hate to ask but,,,,why not? :???: , I pulled a dash from the JY months ago and did this. I just riveted the new VIN plate to the replacement dash. It's technically illegal in most places. You probably shouldn't admit you did that. IMHO, who cares, no ill intent in doing it. Make sure you use the right rivets and it looks good... Here if you replace the driver's door, dash, frame, and any other VIN tagged location (firewall and core support in our application) on a vehicle, you're supposed to get the local insurance/licensing monopoly involved, and they will inspect it and typically issue an entirely new VIN and lighten your wallet in the process. Which makes no sense, so nobody does that. Most of the vehicles I buy are old (and junk) and I find at least one missing VIN or mismatch, and I haven't gone to jail yet, nor has the sky fallen on me.

The problem is it isn't that simple. You can tune to make a lot of smoke without it getting hot. Or you can tune it so it's very hot but not showing a lot of smoke. I'd put the probe in pre-turbo; accuracy matters. Post-turbo the correlation of measured temperature vs actual EGT is not completely linear and can be affected by a lot of factors that will be unknown in this case.

I just went and measured my XJ one. Definitely 2.75" - really curious what the story is on yours, but like you say it's in and works, so it doesn't much matter now.

Without an SYE you just want the pinion pointing 1-2* up. Set the pinion to that with an angle finder, just plunk it on the flange straight up and down, measure side-side of the brake backing plates/caliper mounts (just be consistent with what you do, do not measure anything off the center section or pinion as it is offset), set the perches level with the angle finder. Perches are 42" center-center, IIRC. I recommend buying a digital angle finder. If you take it to a welding/fab shop they should have no issues doing all of this stuff with minimal instruction though, and they should have adequate tools to measure this stuff. And I can't comment if you'll have an issue moving the axle back. Gut feeling is it won't matter, the tire might not be perfectly centered in the wheelwell though.

Might be something in the rad that's plugging it up... Rag, rubber glove, shipping plug, etc. It would be worth it to pull that rad off and try backflushing it with a hose before buying a new one.

You're going to leave it 2wd, and without lift? Because it can be figured out without installing the axle.

Buy the cheapest 80W90 or similar gear oil you can find. You might want to grab the yoke and see if it has any play in it. If you can wiggle it side/side and up/down, the pinion bearings are shot or the preload has come off them, and the axle might well explode in really short order.

I'm curious how you did it, not that I have any interest in doing it myself.

You should have taken a picture of the VIN. But yeah, interesting truck. Certainly worth pursuing.

Does it boil over? Might just be an indicating problem, as you're saying with your gauge acting up.

A what?

What's a 1 Ton Dana 44 axle? They used to use D44s and such in 1-ton trucks. But that was a long time ago. And probably not what he's talking about. Metric Ton D44 rear???

Yup. I still remember running into clean MJs, FSJs, etc, that I could have bought but didn't. Instead I own junk, and work on junk.

Yes.

I'm sure you can still swap new front end parts onto that. The only difference in them is that mounting stud. They even molded in the area where it mounts on the later ones.

It's all coming back now. That is the style that I only dealt with once, on an 86 model. Definitely threw me for a loop when I ran into it. I don't typically deal with anything that early, or anything 4cyl.

I don't know the answer, but a M10x1 is close to a 3/8-UNC. The M10x1 pitch is a bit different, but very close, and it's just slightly larger in diameter, thus typically you can easily thread a 3/8-UNC into a M10x1 nut/insert (but not normally the other way around).

IIRC, the ones that don't have a top stud/nut going into the fender use another bracket on the top or inside. I've only seen it once and it was a collision repair special, so it might have been a one off. And that was a long time ago... So keep looking around.

Right on. Good to see her out of the cage. :cheers:

Not likely. Most of them aren't the same in critical aspects, being width and lug pattern. Car applications are also unlikely.

I'm sure it's a case of the image being a generic product representation.

They could even be the right u-bolts and they're just splayed out a bit. They're not exactly a dimensionally critical part and its common for then to only be close. I assumed he had measured the tubes with a caliper or squares.

That starter makes more torque than the 2.5L it's bolted to...