DirtyComanche

The extra main leaf makes the spring pack more robust in general, and increases spring rate by maybe 20%. Increasing the spring rate gives you a little lift, and is a better match for most of the aftermarket front springs which are typically considerably higher rate than stock. It also means that you won't squat the truck as much when you put stuff in it, IMHO the factory got it wrong and should have gone with higher rate rear springs because of this reason alone. More ideal would be to find some aftermarket springs with a military wrap eye, as that gives you a much stronger setup in general, but I don't keep up on what's available as that sort of stuff is not affordable to me due to shipping.

When I swapped one in I used the factory 4wd MJ leafs, but I added an extra main leaf (with the eyes cut off) to each of them. It was pretty level. You could fine tune it with either zero rates (thin blocks that are part of the leaf pack, since you put the center pin through them), or with shackles

I'm not digging around on his site, because frankly I don't give a damn, but I bet in his warranty info there is a general disclaimer releasing him of liability and indicating that his products are intended for off road use only and may not meet legal requirements in all jurisdictions.

Did you check to make sure? Because vehicles leave the factory every day with spacers....

That firewall connector always looks like that. They put some semi-drying dielectric grease on it when they assemble it. I wish I knew what it was and where to get it, because it seems to work better than a lot of other things.

The Truetrac turned out to be a Trackloc (clutch pack type). I was tempted to still get it but ehh.... Figured it was too good to be true. Might have a line on the correct one if the guy will ever get back to me. But I did track down some tires/wheels. Found these Ipikes in 265/70R17: Image Not Found They should work good for what I want. Also got 5 stock JK P-tires with Moab wheels: Image Not Found I'll probably trade the P-tires to the tire shop in exchange for mounting/balancing the Ipikes, but we'll see. Might find some JK M/T tires and another set of wheels too, so I'll hold off on dealing with the tire shop until I have everything that I plan to do. These are the LCAs that were included with the truck: Image Not Found Yup, not doing much with that. Although I suppose I could cut them down if I wanted. These coils springs were in there too: Image Not Found I don't know what they are but I don't plan to use them. And these 30 spline axle shafts: Image Not Found I'm guessing they're spares for the D44. I'll have to look into it, not really that worried though. Not much else to report. I'm 95% certain I will be getting a RoughCountry long arm setup for very little money, I will know by tomorrow night. It's missing a few bits, but all the big pieces are there, and it looks like all the joints are still in good shape. Yes, I still haven't taken pictures of the truck, or actually done any work on it. :rotfl2:

I have had a couple people tell me that they had 'lost their ad' when I finally manage to get a hold of them. Another good one was a young woman (and not bad looking at that) with an ad for an XJ part out. I need a window regulator, asked 'her' if it was okay or not. Yup, tried it, it goes up and down. Perfect, get an address and go over there with my drill and bag of basic tools. Turns out it's a skiddy looking guy selling the stuff, he uses his GF's Facebook (what the hell is she doing with him anyways :dunno: ) because he's got too bad of a rep and is a 'contractor' (that probably burned tons of people), so he can't post things under his own Facebook. The window regulator clearly didn't work when I tried it. I got the hell out of there in a hurry. :doh:

The lack of organization and searchability of Facebook is appalling. With Kijiji here it makes you fill out year/make/model and a few other things, you can just select 'other' for all of them, but it's easier to just select the reasonably correct info. So normally it's close. With Facebook I'm searching a stupid amount of terms, and still not confident I covered what I wanted. And it organizes things in a very odd manner, it's not really chronological, so even if I browse through a whole group worth of listings I can't be sure if I saw all of them. BTW, buddy that was trying to sell me the wheels that I didn't want, well he's still lighting up my ad with a serious case of anal inflammation, but I'm quite satisfied. Somebody else messaged me and sold me the wheels I want for way less. :rotf:

New, used, age range, gas, diesel, 4wd, 2wd, towing or hauling? Do you need options/creature comforts/seating for 5? Dodge isn't even an option?

It's okay for the time being (forever, or until you have to take the pan off, if you don't care) unless you heard a really loud *CLANK CLANK CLANK* as the rod smashed the pan as it went by. Buy a good quality pan, or you will have a lot of trouble getting it to seal. Lots of the cheap ones come warped.

I'm at the point that I think these are worse than Craigslist/Kijiji. 90% of the time people don't reply to basic questions, regardless if you post in the ad or PM them or both. Even just telling some guy that I would take what he had and to message me so we could meet up, and *crickets* And I posted a WTB for some specific wheels, and I've got a guy arguing with me that I should buy the set he's selling that aren't the same style or size even... Anyone else having better luck?

HREW is comparable to pipe, something around only 50-60% of the strength of DOM. CREW is comparable to DOM, but you almost never see it because it's redundant/obsolete.

You might get good results with that bender if you mod the dies up. I have a JD2 model 3. It works fine. Slow. You need something to solidly bolt it to, since it is completely manual (arm strength). I haven't used it in years actually, but I built the cage on my old MJ with the exact same model. (Borrowed that one, bought this one afterwards and only did a few small things with it)

The remote reservoir ones are for a TJ...

He's on Pirate. He has a couple oddball M715s, that one or one of the others has a Cummins 6BT in it.

Man, that paint sure made that truck look good. Nice job. :thumbsup:

Anything is possible. Worthwhile? Not really. A 6x6 or 8x8 only shines IF you need the load capacity. If you don't, it's just more weight, more moving parts, more power lost to drivetrain inefficiencies, more things that wear out or break, and a worse turning radius with massive scrub.

Oh, it's a piece of garbage. I wasn't going to say anything to bring you down, but seriously I would never even consider running one.

I'd junkyard one in that case, or just order a reman. If it was just a leaking seal you can buy kits easily enough, but I think you're going to have trouble getting just that part.

BleepinJeep has a youtube video on it. Well, it isn't BleepinJeep himself.

Not with the TeraLow. He needs the correct one. It uses it's own front case half, input/planetary gears and whatnot else. So if it is the wrong version (23 spline) he's hooped, you can't just swap the input or whatever else. But as RockFrog says, if it's the 2.5L version it is 21 spline. I always forget about the 2.5L.

I will stand corrected. Apparently I never measured it, rather I just looked up the P/N for the yoke on the front output. But the listing I used was incorrect, and showed it to be the same as the NP231. It isn't, and in the process I tossed out a yoke that I actually could have used. That WJ/KJ 242HD setup is interesting. Unfortunately WJ/KJ parts seem to still be rather expensive, at least around here.

If they're drum-in-hat I don't care.

I'm also not a fan of kits that use one-off parts or wear pieces that aren't available easily, it will leave you in a bind down the road. Not even close to true. I've had the Teraflex conversion kit on my D44 for many years. The only proprietary Teraflex parts are the backing plates. The kit rotors are the same as the ~05 era Jeep Wrangler Rubis and the disk brake pads are from the ~99 era Ford Explorers. I replaced both rotors and pads at least once using the Jeep and Ford parts and they are the same. So all you need from Teraflex to build your own rear disk brake kit are their backing plates and the correct preload spacers for your particular D30 or D44 axle. The D35 non-c-clip and D44 use the same backing plates; the D30 c-clip axle plates are different. I did this when I swapped my existing Teraflex rear disks from a D35 c-clip axle to my current D44. IIRC the L & R backing plates were around $75/ea. and the spacers were a couple of bucks each. I didn't quote part of his post for a reason. In retrospect it does seem like I was talking about the Teraflex kit. Oops, wasn't really thinking about it, since it was posted before that the TJ backing plates don't work without modification, so there's nothing to be saved going that route. As a total aside, does anyone know what the Isuzu D44 brakes look like? Do they look like the Isuzu 12 Bolt ones? The 12 Bolt ones are not drum in hat, they're like the Cadillac Eldorado calipers with a lever on the side of them to actuate them manually. I have some spare 12 Bolt stuff around since it is worth less than scrap price, it might be interesting to look at if the rotor thickness is the same as the TJ or something else that's 5x4.5.

I don't think a 95 YJ should have a 21 spline output on the 5spd (AX-15). It should be 23. I could be wrong, since I don't feel like looking it up. But as said, otherwise they are the same. If it fits, it fits.