DirtyComanche

You might get good results with that bender if you mod the dies up. I have a JD2 model 3. It works fine. Slow. You need something to solidly bolt it to, since it is completely manual (arm strength). I haven't used it in years actually, but I built the cage on my old MJ with the exact same model. (Borrowed that one, bought this one afterwards and only did a few small things with it)

The remote reservoir ones are for a TJ...

He's on Pirate. He has a couple oddball M715s, that one or one of the others has a Cummins 6BT in it.

Man, that paint sure made that truck look good. Nice job. :thumbsup:

Anything is possible. Worthwhile? Not really. A 6x6 or 8x8 only shines IF you need the load capacity. If you don't, it's just more weight, more moving parts, more power lost to drivetrain inefficiencies, more things that wear out or break, and a worse turning radius with massive scrub.

Oh, it's a piece of garbage. I wasn't going to say anything to bring you down, but seriously I would never even consider running one.

I'd junkyard one in that case, or just order a reman. If it was just a leaking seal you can buy kits easily enough, but I think you're going to have trouble getting just that part.

BleepinJeep has a youtube video on it. Well, it isn't BleepinJeep himself.

Not with the TeraLow. He needs the correct one. It uses it's own front case half, input/planetary gears and whatnot else. So if it is the wrong version (23 spline) he's hooped, you can't just swap the input or whatever else. But as RockFrog says, if it's the 2.5L version it is 21 spline. I always forget about the 2.5L.

I will stand corrected. Apparently I never measured it, rather I just looked up the P/N for the yoke on the front output. But the listing I used was incorrect, and showed it to be the same as the NP231. It isn't, and in the process I tossed out a yoke that I actually could have used. That WJ/KJ 242HD setup is interesting. Unfortunately WJ/KJ parts seem to still be rather expensive, at least around here.

If they're drum-in-hat I don't care.

I'm also not a fan of kits that use one-off parts or wear pieces that aren't available easily, it will leave you in a bind down the road. Not even close to true. I've had the Teraflex conversion kit on my D44 for many years. The only proprietary Teraflex parts are the backing plates. The kit rotors are the same as the ~05 era Jeep Wrangler Rubis and the disk brake pads are from the ~99 era Ford Explorers. I replaced both rotors and pads at least once using the Jeep and Ford parts and they are the same. So all you need from Teraflex to build your own rear disk brake kit are their backing plates and the correct preload spacers for your particular D30 or D44 axle. The D35 non-c-clip and D44 use the same backing plates; the D30 c-clip axle plates are different. I did this when I swapped my existing Teraflex rear disks from a D35 c-clip axle to my current D44. IIRC the L & R backing plates were around $75/ea. and the spacers were a couple of bucks each. I didn't quote part of his post for a reason. In retrospect it does seem like I was talking about the Teraflex kit. Oops, wasn't really thinking about it, since it was posted before that the TJ backing plates don't work without modification, so there's nothing to be saved going that route. As a total aside, does anyone know what the Isuzu D44 brakes look like? Do they look like the Isuzu 12 Bolt ones? The 12 Bolt ones are not drum in hat, they're like the Cadillac Eldorado calipers with a lever on the side of them to actuate them manually. I have some spare 12 Bolt stuff around since it is worth less than scrap price, it might be interesting to look at if the rotor thickness is the same as the TJ or something else that's 5x4.5.

I don't think a 95 YJ should have a 21 spline output on the 5spd (AX-15). It should be 23. I could be wrong, since I don't feel like looking it up. But as said, otherwise they are the same. If it fits, it fits.

That seems like a reasonable idea. I'm also not a fan of kits that use one-off parts or wear pieces that aren't available easily, it will leave you in a bind down the road.

Swung a deal on a Truetrac for the D30. Hopefully it's in good shape, but for a case of Coors I don't think I'm going too wrong. Now looking for one for the D44. :brows:

That engine should be a nice package. :cheers:

Welcome. I hope you make a thread on the rebuild. Somebody else will shed light on posting pictures. I use photobucket and link them, I'm not sure if there is other options.

I guess. I turned down buying one because they seem to just be a PITA. The one I was haggling on probably had a cracked head. There was a fair number of Metric Tons made over the years, so they aren't really that rare, especially not with a 4L/5spd. The rarest of the trucks are ones with oddball factory options like the hidden winch, or very limited production colours/decals, especially if they're also a metric ton and/or diesel. Not that it means you should be paying a lot more for something like that, as just because its rare doesn't mean it's good or collectable. I don't know what to tell you, the price seems a little steep, but I've never bought a clean MJ.

I know you can make them work, but I haven't ever messed with them. I don't have my manuals with me so I can't tell you. But if you search around for NP242 swap info I'm sure you'll find what you need.

The CPS you have will work.

You have an AW4. Call/email him and talk to him to make sure it does what you want, he's a helpful dude. You will still have to adapt the NSS so you have backup lights, and you may want to add the actual safety switch wiring so you can't start it in gear, along with playing with the TV cable a bit so it functions correctly. And you will still have to make the CPS work (get the correct flexplate, make sure the CPS is indexed correctly).

Is there pictures? (Sorry, I'm on a weird connection right now so some things are blocked) What is the price? Metric Ton versions are worth more. Is an 88 Metric Ton with a 4.oh/AX-15 long box a unicorn? Nope, not at all.

Both options have problems. With option 1, you will have to adapt some of the XJ harness to work in the MJ. You will have some trouble with the fuel sending unit being different resistance values, IIRC. That can be solved by either finding a HO MJ fuel sending unit, or building/adapting the correct sender (there is some writeups on this, as HO MJ sending units are hard to find). With option 2, you're still going to need to track down an automatic wiring harness out of a Renix XJ or MJ, ECU and TCU, and there will be some trouble with the CPS indexing (IIRC), and the TV cable is different. It's going to be a similar amount of work. Unless you want to shift the transmission manually all the time, in which case you could retain the wiring harness and ECU you have, and just have to deal with the CPS. I think RADesigns or whateverhisnameis is still making and selling a nice manual setup using a Winters shifter. I actually still have an old BrettM setup in the box somewhere, who knows where though. Personally, I would probably go with option 1. Well, honestly I would put the HO engine/trans/tcase in and adapt the Renix controls to it and use the spare Renix auto harness I have, but I like doing things the hard way.

I doubt anyone has enough love for the Peugeot BA-10/5 to be offended by it being referred to as a 'Puke Goat.' :cheers:

Good deal on the donor.