DirtyComanche

In curious if they found a tie rod or drag link from another application to make the upper part of it? Then only the lower part with the bushing would be custom.

I know people will disagree with me on this. But I hate the fuel line (and trans line) quick disconnect fittings. I find it is rare that I need to take them apart, so being a quick release is not relevant, and given that you should be replacing the o-rings and retainer clip every time there is nothing quick about the process in the end. Plus, lose the little backup ring out of it and you're in for a pain to find a new one. Trans lines are easy, see my other thread about that. Fuel lines? Hmm, not sure. I'm running the early HO rail and regulator now, so it has male nipples on it. I also don't have the right lines, so that's kinda prompting me to do this. Hack would probably be to just put some EFI rated fuel hose over the nipples and use EFI clamps. I'd probably get somewhat less hack about it and at least sleeve the hose with some abrasion shield. That would be easy. Otherwise I'm drawing something of a blank. You can buy quick disconnect to AN style adapters, but that's kinda silly. I suppose I could try slipping a tube nut/ferrule over the current nipples and flaring them, hard to say how well that would work out. Same for the other end I guess?

Good luck. I hope it works out. That's a hell of a mess.

Lisle makes a tool for spreading small block Chevy engines. I actually have one somewhere, and it does work. It's just a simple jackscrew setup. But if its warped enough it broke the bolts, I think its done.

If it's warped that bad, I'd probably go looking for a new one. But I'm really wondering what you have wrong if you can't even get the intake manifold to fit with the exhaust off. As previously asked, what engine is this? 2.5L or 4L?

I suppose "won't accelerate good." is rather subjective. I'm assuming he means it isn't going anywhere... But if it's not seat in the pants better than a normal ol' Renix, I wouldn't be surprised. Using the Renix TB, I believe that's probably the major restriction. And there might not be much/any real gain in the higher end using the HO head/aftermarket cam when coupled with the Renix intake. It's a truck motor, not a race engine.

Was the cam timing set correctly? It should not be a radical enough cam for the computer to care.

As far as the towing company goes, I honestly would phone them and say "Hey, you know the truck isn't worth $500. I will pay you for the tow, but not the impound fees. That way you at least get your cost out of it." Or something like that. Here the tow yards have lots of vehicles that aren't worth a thing that they can't sell for anything because they don't have the title.

The HD SYE kits are stronger than stock. 32 spline output vs a 27. Most of the driveshafts you would have built are stronger than stock, especially if you go with a Tom woods or JE Reel or that 1tonCV guy (forget his company name). Do you need the strength? Depends on how hard you are on it.

Thanks!

A long time ago somebody sent me a link for the metric fittings to use on an AW4 to delete the quick disconnects. They were a metric to AN fitting. That was a laptop or two back in time, so I've lost the link. I think Summit or Jegs sold them. Anyone have any ideas? I hate the quick disconnects with a passion.

I could fix that. But I wouldn't. That cab has a lot more rust that has been bondo'd over. I bet if you took it to a blaster there wouldn't be much left. Now if somebody wanted to make a truggy, it would be a sorta good starting point. Basically short of doing something that involves cutting off and trashing everything from the bump in the cab/doors and below, then rebuilding with tube, it is not worth anything other than to part it out.

I'm not sure if it works on those anyways. I had a 97 with ABS. It never did a thing. I know that era of Dodge 3/4 ton trucks it doesn't do anything either.

How much did you pay?

They go for the same price as the 4L ones here. So I won't touch them. They are few and far between, I suspect most of their owners died of boredom before getting to their intended destination.

I suppose it is a generational thing. It isn't the fact they shipped me a part that didn't look at all like the OEM part it was supposed to replace that upset me. Mistakes happen. What upset me was the way they blew me off after I notified them that the part wasn't correct. People of my generation don't tolerate that kind of attitude. You didn't phone them, did you? Because when I phoned them and explained my situation they were super accommodating. Once I realized their online return thing didn't do what I wanted I called, problem resolved in 2 minutes.

Sounds like it's worth $100-200... I hate buying stuff without papers.

Somebody on another forum told me the TBI does not use an IAT, I'm hoping he will explain what fuel injection setups did use it. Either way the above P/Ns should work without needing an application, and it has been in production for a long time so it should be available without issue.

A 1999 won't have a D44 from the factory. There is a high probability that it is an 8.25" though.

What Eagle says, listen to him.

Yes. There is some differences in the floor. The body isn't as rigid though, the B pillar location on the 4dr is better for that. The door hinges and strikers really like to crack, and around the vents in the door opening. Not a big deal but its something to look for.

It's also the same sensor GM used from about 1985-1995, maybe even more years, on anything with any sort of EFI. Basically, it's a bread and butter sensor. Actually, it looks like even LSx applications use it, so it's probably still being installed in GM products that roll off the assembly line as I type. Edit, the above GM P/N is a good P/N and matches what it should... Again, I don't have one in hand, and haven't tried it, but it looks like it should work.

Might be: (unverified) GM #25036751 Standard AX1 GP SORENSEN 779-19001 AC DELCO 213-190 NIEHOFF IGNITION TS83631 was DR-136W WELLS SU107 MSD 2320 (includes connector) It's the same sensor that Megasquirt uses, you can buy one from DIYautotune also.

I don't find 2drs to be that rare. I'm sure I'm wrong, but it seems they all came with manual transmissions. Which is why I wound up build a 4dr XJ this last go around. The body cracks worse on them than 4drs. It's not as rigid. It's probably worth $500-900 in that shape. I paid $500 for the last 2dr I bought. $100 for the last 4dr. There was some cherry 2drs for $1500-2000 (asking) when I went looking for another XJ.

Right on.