DirtyComanche

That seems like a reasonable idea. I'm also not a fan of kits that use one-off parts or wear pieces that aren't available easily, it will leave you in a bind down the road.

Swung a deal on a Truetrac for the D30. Hopefully it's in good shape, but for a case of Coors I don't think I'm going too wrong. Now looking for one for the D44. :brows:

That engine should be a nice package. :cheers:

Welcome. I hope you make a thread on the rebuild. Somebody else will shed light on posting pictures. I use photobucket and link them, I'm not sure if there is other options.

I guess. I turned down buying one because they seem to just be a PITA. The one I was haggling on probably had a cracked head. There was a fair number of Metric Tons made over the years, so they aren't really that rare, especially not with a 4L/5spd. The rarest of the trucks are ones with oddball factory options like the hidden winch, or very limited production colours/decals, especially if they're also a metric ton and/or diesel. Not that it means you should be paying a lot more for something like that, as just because its rare doesn't mean it's good or collectable. I don't know what to tell you, the price seems a little steep, but I've never bought a clean MJ.

I know you can make them work, but I haven't ever messed with them. I don't have my manuals with me so I can't tell you. But if you search around for NP242 swap info I'm sure you'll find what you need.

The CPS you have will work.

You have an AW4. Call/email him and talk to him to make sure it does what you want, he's a helpful dude. You will still have to adapt the NSS so you have backup lights, and you may want to add the actual safety switch wiring so you can't start it in gear, along with playing with the TV cable a bit so it functions correctly. And you will still have to make the CPS work (get the correct flexplate, make sure the CPS is indexed correctly).

Is there pictures? (Sorry, I'm on a weird connection right now so some things are blocked) What is the price? Metric Ton versions are worth more. Is an 88 Metric Ton with a 4.oh/AX-15 long box a unicorn? Nope, not at all.

Both options have problems. With option 1, you will have to adapt some of the XJ harness to work in the MJ. You will have some trouble with the fuel sending unit being different resistance values, IIRC. That can be solved by either finding a HO MJ fuel sending unit, or building/adapting the correct sender (there is some writeups on this, as HO MJ sending units are hard to find). With option 2, you're still going to need to track down an automatic wiring harness out of a Renix XJ or MJ, ECU and TCU, and there will be some trouble with the CPS indexing (IIRC), and the TV cable is different. It's going to be a similar amount of work. Unless you want to shift the transmission manually all the time, in which case you could retain the wiring harness and ECU you have, and just have to deal with the CPS. I think RADesigns or whateverhisnameis is still making and selling a nice manual setup using a Winters shifter. I actually still have an old BrettM setup in the box somewhere, who knows where though. Personally, I would probably go with option 1. Well, honestly I would put the HO engine/trans/tcase in and adapt the Renix controls to it and use the spare Renix auto harness I have, but I like doing things the hard way.

I doubt anyone has enough love for the Peugeot BA-10/5 to be offended by it being referred to as a 'Puke Goat.' :cheers:

Good deal on the donor.

What year ranges had a 32 spline front? The last one I pulled apart was quite old, it uses the two piece gear design like the other cases with 32 spline fronts, but I believe it was still the smaller yoke/spline setup. Unfortunately I was only opening it up for the input gear and threw the rest of it out. I don't know if I have any other ones left to look at. WJ only for 32 spline rear then?

I hate whoever invented scotch locs, and I hate people that use them almost as much.

Made two decisions. I am going to run JK wheels, so 5x4.5 to 5x5 adapters. I'm going to go with the G2 ones because they're cheap. I will buy an AA HD SYE for the 231. I would order both of them right now, but I have some Summit bucks around here somewhere... But I don't know where they went! Why can't they just apply them to your account automatically??? Hmmm, seems I didn't order using my account last time (odd?), so maybe that's why?

Keep me in mind when you wind up pulling it off. I haven't been to the island in years, but ya never know. A short box will fit entirely inside the box on my Dodge, so it's super easy for me to take it home. :laughin:

If you want to test the head gasket, you're best to pull the rad hoses and heater hoses off and plug them. There is kits with expandable plugs sold for doing this, and one will have the adapter with a gauge to pressurize it. Any other symptoms that lead you to believe it's the headgasket?

As I understand it, the later blocks still have the boss for the knock sensor, you just need to drill and tap it. Not that it really matters in this case.

I saw replacement box panels for sale, fairly inexpensive too in case if you want to repair it. http://stores.zmjeeps.com/bed-side-mj-comanche/ It's not worth it because of massive shipping costs (I am not in the US). There is one in the junkyard here and I keep meaning to go look at it. I don't remember if it was a SWB or LWB even. My cab isn't in great shape either, I'm not sure what the bondo is hiding. I need to actually pull the truck in an assess what is going on before I make any real commitments. As it sits my plan of throwing it together for the winter is workable. It's just a question if I want to try to go farther with it (as in, actually make it nice).

The donor driveshafts should work. Everything in those year ranges is pretty well swappable as far as the hard parts go. IMHO, what you want to do is fairly straightforward, it's just involving. Basically pull the donor in and strip it down to nothing, then install all that stuff in the other one. I would take ALL of the wiring personally, there was changes between 88 and 89, and some (later?) 89 models vs other 89 models.

I really don't even plan to really wheel this thing, I just want the tires covered so it is legal, and the bed has some ugly stuff that should be covered. As my (hypothetical) build thread might allude, I'm still hammering out the details of what I want out of this. It actually would be a good candidate to build tube fenders for since the box is not really repairable (short of new bedsides), so really you might as well just hack it up at that point.

Yeah, the harness and ECU is different. Easiest would be to swap everything.

Has anyone tried fitting up stock JK rear flares? They're fairly easy to come by since so many people take them off. Edit, it looks terrible. Forget I asked.

Thanks for the thoughts guys, I'm leaning towards the Napier ones since they're most likely to do what I want. The video on their site of rubbing the tree is promising too, it looks like they should hold up for a long time. Otherwise I think I might pull out the pipe mangler and the 1" sch40 and make something. I'm not going to get to this for months anyways, so it's not any sort of hurry.

If I had the extra space and time (money isn't really an issue) I would buy one and throw my spare 4.0L/Renix setup I have in it.