DirtyComanche

Hmm. I'm going to measure the XJ D44 I have when I get home, and see if it is a Trac-loc or not. It seems really odd to me if you got two with 3" tubes when that isn't something that's ever been documented before. The good news is going to 3" tubes is considerably stronger than 2.75".

Got a BOM number on that axle?

Take everything, including the harness and ECM. The later ECMs are more desirable. That said, you can still source everything with a little creativity and adaptation.

An 86 MJ shouldn't have had a D44, AFAIK...........

Not really any different doing a rad with an auto trans, you just make a mess when you pull the lines for the cooler. I flush the cooler area on the new rad out with some brakeclean just to make sure everything is good before you hook it up. The top fitting is just a 45* flare fitting, so it comes off easy and makes sense. The bottom one should be a quick disconnect, so you'll need a new clip and o-rings (do NOT lose the backup ring between them) if you intend to keep it. Personally I'd buy some tranny cooler hose and some stainless hose clamps and delete that stupid thing.

I'd suspect that rad will crack where it has been 'joggled' by the impact. It's just a matter of when, could be tomorrow, could be 10 years. If you keep an eye on it you can probably run it, but I would replace it for piece of mind. If you plan on recharging that A/C at any point (any idea where it leaked? Or was it a different problem?) you're best to leave the system as sealed up as possible to keep it as uncontaminated as you can. So I would just bend the condenser back straightish and leave it in place.

I'd probably do that how I do aircraft windows. With the window already in, masking tape around the opening and on the frame, then fill the groove mostly full of urethane and run my finger over it to smooth it out and make it even, pull the tape and clean up any oopsies. As Eagle said, you probably could build up a profile if you wanted. It would be harder though, it's much easier with something like that if you only fill the gap partially and use a finger to give it a nice even slightly concave profile, but a completely flat profile would also not be too hard. How Leenewtonleon did it looks fine to me also, and it's how my 89 was done when I went to a non-slider in it since a gasket could not be sourced.

Unless you have adjustable ball joints, camber shims, or a desire to bend your front axle, camber isn't really adjustable. Knowing what I know now, and owning a tape measure, ratchet straps, two pieces of angle iron, and an inexpensive digital angle finder, I would never take a SFA truck to a professional alignment shop. Do you have a lift? The factory method of adjusting caster is to place shims in the rear of the LCA pockets, there is a fork assembly in there which is loosened and shims are added or subtracted between it and the pocket to slightly move the mounting hole. Personally I think it's a completely terrible setup and normally the nuts/studs break off if you try to do it. If you have a lift I would suggest buying some adjustable control arms. Caster can then be set by adjusting them, place the angle finder on the face of the differential housing to determine relative angle. In actual practice I often skip getting too technical on that, and instead I set the toe by ratchet strapping the angle iron to the tires, measuring across in front and behind the tires, and adjusting for 1/8"-1/4" toe in, then drive it and see how it is. Add caster until it feels better. Unless you have nowhere to start, in which case I'd suggest starting around 3* and expecting to wind up in the 5-6* range. If it still won't drive well, something is worn out, the axle/C is bent, or you should add more toe in. If you have an adjustable track bar, make sure the axle is centered first before doing anything. Make sure this is set with normal driving weight on the wheels, the axle moves side to side as the suspension compresses/droops. The easiest way I've found to do it is with a plumb bob taped to the fenders on each side, but there probably is slicker ways. When adjusting the inverted-Y type steering, make sure all adjustments are done with normal driving weight on the wheels. The toe changes as the suspension compresses/droops. Also, start by centering the steering wheel with the P/S tire straight, then set the toe on the D/S tire. I don't recall if the D30 center section is in line with the caster though, I haven't aligned one in a coon's age. You might want to look that up. Anyways, I guarantee you if you do follow those steps you will get it aligned as well or better than will be done on a professional alignment rack.

And yet less than 12 hours later I'm in. [emoji2] Wonder if he read this?

Could very well be this. The Renix and HO AW4 transmissions use different throttle valve cams. CAM PACKAGE, Throttle Valve 87-90 83504338 91-01 4637026 Good luck finding the newer cam package. Since the pump is fried and may have taken out other hydraulic parts with it, you might be better off replacing the tranny with a 91 and up AW4. :dunno: I have a renix AW4 in my HO truck and I have no TV cable issues..... and my internet works great too! :thumbsup: How did you route it? The Renix cable is 6" shorter or so. I'm running a HO intake/TB with Renix controls and tranny, I made it work but I had to cut up the brackets and some other creative nonsense.

Sucks. There's lots of them out there though...

He seems quite useful.

You do realize that both of those links are for universal tachometers that use a magnetic pickup (the reference to "Hall sensor") rather than picking up a signal from the ignition system ... right? It means you would have to mount some kind of bracket, probably near the crank pulley/vibration damper, for the sensor to "read" the rotational speed of the engine. Hijacking. Is there decent analog display tachs like this? Like what? This thread seems to be about digital tachometers. What analog tach are you asking about? Sorry, I could have been more clear. Analog tachs with their own hall effect sensor, so if you don't have an ignition system it isn't a big deal. I know there is some marketed to diesels but they generally seem to be terrible.

You do realize that both of those links are for universal tachometers that use a magnetic pickup (the reference to "Hall sensor") rather than picking up a signal from the ignition system ... right? It means you would have to mount some kind of bracket, probably near the crank pulley/vibration damper, for the sensor to "read" the rotational speed of the engine. Hijacking. Is there decent analog display tachs like this?

Redacted.

Ordered some u-bolt eliminators from TMR: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=139&products_id=1979 And I ordered a single tie rod taper insert. I'm going to flip the tie rod, otherwise I think I plan to leave the steering alone for now. Still just amassing parts. I'm just throwing things for this in with other orders. Still hunting for traction devices too.

I don't know if their is still a turbo kit for that engine in production. They actually respond pretty well to a turbo. There's also about a billion of those that are HMMWV takeouts like that one kicking around, so they're pretty cheap, grab a spare and if something goes wrong plunk it in. I can't say if I would do the swap or not, but I wouldn't consider it without a turbo.

Most long arm kits are like that. It can be a pain but there is workarounds.

Find one that the owner cared, and that won't be a problem. But yeah, my 88 has a rotten firewall in that area from the clutch leaking on it. Luckily I do not believe it has the same harness in it as it did then, but who knows.

Well, I'm guessing that was a 4bt until somebody stole the turbo. Honestly, it's worth $500~ tops. It's a core unless you can run it and verify it is good, which ain't happening without injectors. That one looks like it was used for some bojang generator or water pump application, and guess what, people don't throw that stuff out unless it is garbage. To part it out it might be worth something, providing the IP is good, and the starter, and the other accessories, but meh. I'd offer them $100, if they didn't take it I'd be happy I didn't have another POS clogging up my life.

I'm hoping somebody posts pics. I've got two sets of doors I would like to do this with.

Figure out what you want the truck to do first, and then what you want to do for tires and lift, and then figure out what axles. There's lots of options, but in general it winds up getting expensive. Do not hesitate to ask any questions you have, or hit up the search function and read through the builds in the projects section, it's way better to ask now than to buy parts and spend time swapping them in and find out they're inappropriate.

What primer is that? Looks similar in colour to the 88 I have that's painted with Krylon.

How much lift do you want? Do you want it to drive decent, or just be taller? There's about a million options, lots of them aren't a good idea.

More info on your plans? Lift, tire size, wheeling type, etc, etc? IIRC, that Waggy rear axle is about 58.5-59" wide, they're a little narrower than the rear you have, not sure if it's a problem for you or not, but it can be. It's also a bit offset, which is not normally an issue. The front is low pinion, which can be a bit of a bummer for driveshaft angles and getting enough caster for it to drive nice. The D44 fronts also use rather weak outer shafts, there is upgrade options there, but it's pay to play. $500/each seems expensive. I can get a Ford D60 and 10.25/10.5 rear for about $1000 total, as in, the same price. If these axles are in 'as pulled' condition from a vehicle that was driven to death, expect to spend a bunch of money replacing worn out parts. Also, they probably have a fairly ugly gear ratio in them (3.07 is typical), so plan on regearing.