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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. DirtyComanche
    One of my J-truck piles had them made out of 1/4" ply that was then covered. I think the concept would have been fine IF they had actually done a somewhat decent job of it. They did not. They also welded a craftsman screwdriver to the window regulator to act as a crank, just so this is all in perspective.
  2. DirtyComanche

    front skid

    DirtyComanche replied to daking's topic in The Pub

    Haha, They did that because they're actually out of stock, but Amazon will penalize them for that. So list having one for $10K and there's no risk anyone will buy it, which is good since it doesn't actually exist, and that way they don't get in trouble with Amazon.
  3. DirtyComanche
    The whole thing is a weak link. The housing sucks, but while you can truss it the tubes are still thin enough to dent. The stock axle shafts suck, upgrading them moves the failure point to either the carrier or the ring and pinion. A full case locker guarantees the failure point is the ring and pinion. You could get a nice set of Spicer gears and send them out for cryogenic treatment to try to avoid this, it will still break eventually. Basically you wind up with a really expensive axle that will still break. Do it if you want, I wouldn't.
  4. DirtyComanche
    Two rules I live by that apply in this scenario. Never lift a vehicle more than you need to for adequate tire clearance (and not until sheetmetal mods have been performed). Never lift a vehicle you intend to use to tow with.
  5. DirtyComanche
    Bumping a slightly old thread because I need one. They don't. Totally different shape. Nobody has found a source for a decent price? I actually stripped the power windows out because I prefer manual, unfortunately my donor door had a bad one... Last time I hit the junkyard here they were all stripped. They had lots of the new (97+) style ones though...
  6. DirtyComanche
    Mine are torn. I don't know if they will clean up given the nature of the staining. Basically they were stacked interlocking while they sat in a shed for about 5 years with stuff on them and they are rust stained. I'm going to clean them before I put the covers on either way, but I don't have high hopes. Cabellas sells some for around $20. I'll order them as long as they ship to me.
  7. DirtyComanche
    Links to refurbing them? A junkyard set will be $100. My guy won't sell me the covers only. Would rather just order something on amazon and have it on my doorstep when I get home.
  8. DirtyComanche
    If you convert your Renix to an open system you can use the 97+ hoses. Otherwise you will have to splice T-fittings into them to hook to the expansion bottle.
  9. DirtyComanche
    IMHO, and only IMHO, the HD SYEs for the NP231/242 are a waste of money because they do not, and can not, address the front output. I'd love to see the whole Hummer 242 case, it should have the 32 spline front output in it, like the NP241 does. I used to cut down the hack'n'tap crowd (I still refer to them as a hack'n'crap), but I've decided that the HD rear output really isn't that likely to be worthwhile.
  10. DirtyComanche
    I'm with the warped pan crowd. But it's worth checking to make sure the pump isn't hitting it anyways. Order a new pan, install it without the gasket and make sure the bolts will run up by hand, then check it for rub marks when you take it off. Chances are you have a stock pump and there is no issues there anyways.
  11. DirtyComanche
    The bigger reason for the 8.8 axle's popularity is that they are plentiful and cheap. To me it was worth searching for and finally finding an MJ D44. Do not confuse cheapness with economic sense. If you want 4.10 gears and disk brakes, the 8.8 makes an awful lot of sense, and that's not just because somebody is being cheap.
  12. DirtyComanche
    Image Not Found Here is the amount of tire stick out I have on an XJ with 67"~ wide axles and 17"x9 rims with about 6" of backspacing. Sourcing rims with more backspacing proved to not be very easy, and there's more to the story if one wants it told. If you have to have your tires covered it is a big problem. Granted those tires are also quite wide (13.5"), but even a 10" wide tire wouldn't fix it.
  13. DirtyComanche
    That's a little out of my intended price range. I know, I have $10k in the driveline and suspension, but heaven forbid I spend more than $100 on the seats.
  14. DirtyComanche
    Yeah, the width is massively different and it's a bit of a problem. Stock axles are 60"~ from wheel mounting surface (WMS) to the other WMS. (They aren't exactly 60" but we'll leave that alone for now) Truck axles are regarded as being full width and are typically 67" to 72" WMS to WMS. Thus you will need to match both the front and rear axles, and you will have tires sticking out from the fenders, which can cause legal problems. And as said, the bolt pattern is a problem. The factory 5x4.5 pattern is unfortunate as it is too small to work on many axles, which leaves limited options. Walking away from the 5x4.5 pattern is IMHO the best course of action if one plans to upgrade axles...
  15. DirtyComanche
    Any you would recommend?
  16. DirtyComanche
    Didn't read the thread, did ya? Nothing is 'taking the amps away'. The starter is loading massively, which is actually causing the amperage to go sky high. The fact that it cranks nicely with the ignition unhooked confirms that it is likely a timing related issue, which is a control related issue, which is ECU and everything that goes with it. Sure, it could be the disty, but I wouldn't be replacing a thing before I confirmed all sensor functions appear normal.
  17. DirtyComanche
    I actually think it's more likely to be an issue with the crank position sensor and what the ECU interprets from it. But if your MAP, intake air temp, coolant temp sensors are providing faulty or erratic outputs it could play into it. I think the coil and ICM are both 'works or doesn't' type of equipment.
  18. DirtyComanche
    Well that was a hell of an update. That's a Dakota tank then?
  19. DirtyComanche
    If you're going to break the Torx that hold the door on free, you might as well back them right out and fix the hinge properly. The longer you leave the messed up hinge pins in, the harder they are to remove. Just make sure the Torx are clean and you use a good bit when you go to take them out. If things look crusty, you might want to pull the door panel and feed some WD-40 or equivalent onto the threads from the inside of the door. Personally I've found they always come out, eventually.
  20. DirtyComanche
    Pull the door, the pin is either broken or has a severe step worn in it. You may have to get heinous and cut the lower third of the hinge off, which is good if you want quick hinges, otherwise it's a trip the junkyard for a new one.
  21. DirtyComanche
    Absolutely. But you're removing the small timers and joyriders with a few basic steps, which makes up most of the theft of a vehicle like a Comanche.
  22. DirtyComanche
    This is the 'keyed' battery disconnect I was talking about: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=268&products_id=2486
  23. DirtyComanche
    And Tim Cameron rather promptly cut the independent suspension off his rig and tossed a set of bling solid axles under it. Independent suspension works, but at a price. There is no cheap, simple, and reliable for it. Anything that the great Fiat will be providing the market will be expensive, over complicated, and unreliable. I dare them to prove me wrong.
  24. DirtyComanche
    I have a spare of those. I can check. Alternatively you could install the XJ rear wiper switch, it would work and I doubt anyone would go 'Hang on, there's no rear wiper...' Ringing them out, you could use either switch. I'm not sure if they're up to the task, as they're both a little chintzy. However you can swap the switches in their holders, so perhaps the fog light switch would be the best bet, but you could put it in the wiper or power/comfort holder if you want. I do not have a fog light switch, at least not that I could find.
  25. DirtyComanche
    I have a spare of those. I can check. Alternatively you could install the XJ rear wiper switch, it would work and I doubt anyone would go 'Hang on, there's no rear wiper...'
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