caseyrstewart

Hello all, I recently purchase a new E-brake lever on Ebay because my old one would constantly release unexpectedly. I've never had a working emergency brake on my truck, so I figured while I was spending the money, I'd just go all out. I went through the trouble of running all new brake cables to the equalizer and hooked them up to the rear brake drums. I adjusted the equalizer and the flywheel on both rear tires. For some reason the passenger side now works perfectly when I engage the E-brake, but the drivers side does not. There's still lots of play in the drum with the brake engaged. I've adjusted it several times and can't seem to figure out what's going on. Any thoughts?

I think I'm just going to leave it alone. Like I said, I don't drive the truck very often. Plus the cabin is so small that it doesn't take that long to cool off. I just hope I got the leak by changing out the compressor. Like you said, as long as I can rely on it staying 53 degrees consistently, I'd call this repair a success. If in two weeks it's back to blowing hot, I may have to dig in a little deeper. Thank you so much for all your help and knowledge! It's greatly appreciated!!

Ok, so I didn't spray the water on my condenser. Instead I figured I'd go for a drive with the thermometer and wow, I must say, it's significantly better than last night! I measured 53 degrees at the lowest point while I was driving about 45 MPH (outdoor temp was 83 degrees). Makes sense considering it was just sitting idle in my driveway and there was no airflow through the condenser. Still not freezing cold, but MUCH better and I could live with it if you say that's as good as it's going to get. Is that about the ballpark temperature I should expect or do you think adding more refrigerant would help? My apology if these seem like dumb questions. I do live sound for a living. Ask me how to put on a concert for a stadium full of people and I'll tell you anything you need to know!

Ok. Here are my results after installing the new A/C compressor and recharging with Red Tek 12a: -Drained PAG oil from compressor and added 3.5 ounces of mineral oil -Kept original dryer installed (only about two years old) -Reinstalled fittings with all new O rings -Pulled vacuum at held at -30 mg for approximately an hour -Added (3) 6 oz cans or refrigerant -Manifold gauges read 19 PSI on the low side and 200 PSI on the high side -Outside temperate was 83 degrees Fahrenheit -New compressor engages and runs So obviously something is still not right. It blows cool but not cold in the cabin. Anyone have any thoughts?

Was able to drain out 5.25 fluid ounces. Do I need to put O rings on the valve fittings that transfer from the old compressor to the new one?

So the compressor finally arrived and on it was a sticker that says "190 mL of PAG 46" oil. Based on my research, that oil is designed to work with R-134a systems. Did I buy the wrong compressor or do I just need to drain out the PAG 46 and put in the mineral oil in it's place?

Is the evaporator what's behind the firewall? Couldn't find an OEM Sanden so I bought a new Four Seasons compressor. Ok, thanks for the tip on the drier! I'll report back once I get the compressor in and pull a vacuum. Also, this may seem like a dumb question, but I just want to make sure...I don't have to add oil to a new compressor, do I? From what I understand, those come pre-oiled.

There was no metal shavings that poured out, but the oil was definitely dirty. I measured approximately 1-2 ounces of fluid. Ordered a new compressor and plan on putting it and the drier in Thursday when it arrives. Once installed, I'll run a new vacuum test to see if I can get it to hold at -30 Hg and go from there... Man, thanks so much!! You've been a lifesaver so far!!

Okay, so I was able to get the compressor out. Not an easy task as the bolts were VERY stuck, but with much time and patience, I was able to get it removed. Now, let me ask this question...might it be worth it to just go ahead and replace the compressor for $300? I've spent enough money at this point to where I'd rather just do it right. Not to mention the air compressor looks very old and appears to have a refrigerant type of residue all over the bottom of it. I wouldn't be shocked if that's where my leak is coming from. Also, for what it's worth there was approximately 1-2 ounces of oil that poured out of the compressor and it was diiiirty.

It's an Apple "high efficiency" format... Do you think something like this would work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-AC-Hose-New-for-Jeep-Wrangler-Cherokee-Comanche-1987-1992-56002950-/132455523941?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

@Minuit do you have any idea what this hose would be called if I ordered it at an auto parts store? As long as I'm tearing the system apart, I'd like to replace it (it's old/cracked and probably one of the older parts of the whole system). IMG_7525 (1).HEIC Going to take the compressor out today and check the oil level, then run the UV dye test. Here goes nothing...

Hmmm, ok. I'm honestly not sure how difficult it'll be to get my compressor out, but I guess at this point there's really no way of telling how much oil is in the system. If/when I get it removed, am I basing the amount that I put in only on how much is in that one part? Won't there be oil in the rest of the system or does that not matter as much? Taking out the dryer makes sense. Everything I've read makes it sound like that part should be replaced every time a system is opened up and worked on. I've ordered the dye kit, more refrigerant, O-rings, and the mineral oil. Also, dumb question...is the mineral oil the only oil I'm adding to the compressor or is it in addition to a different type of a/c systems oil?

Well, I enjoy learning about this stuff. Hopefully next time I encounter the issue I'll have a little better understanding of how to fix it... Copy that on compressed air. I just went to O'Reilly's and everything they have fro UV dye is for R-134 systems. I found this kit on Amazon and while it's not cheap, it seems like a good universal option: https://www.amazon.com/UView-332010-Spotgun-Jr-LED-Lite/dp/B000NBVFOQ/ref=sr_1_31?crid=1TY8CVH19Z5XL&keywords=uv+dye+leak+detector+kit&qid=1560096513&s=gateway&sprefix=uv+dye%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-31 Also, here's a link to the Red Tek R12a. It breaks down to about $13 a can if you buy the 3 pack. https://www.amazon.com/Cans-REDTEK-Refrigerant-Ounce-Can/dp/B00E5MOPEG/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2RD3R16X4CNHO&keywords=redtek+12a&qid=1560108789&s=automotive&sprefix=red+tek+%2Cautomotive%2C141&sr=1-2 Any final thoughts before I moved ahead?

Hey @Minuit thank you for all of that information. I'm learning that a lot of people have differing opinions on what works and what doesn't, but like most car work, there is a right and wrong way to do something. I think I have taken some bad advice, which is fine. Live and learn. Ultimately, this is not my daily driver. It's a truck I use to haul my kayak out to the lake and pick up top soil from Home Depot. If the air doesn't work, that's ok. If it does, great! I've always heard using UV dye is harmful to the system. Is that true or is that a myth? At this point, I will probably evacuate the system once again, and add the dye in order to find my leak. You were right. It's already blowing warm so I assume most of my R12a has leaked out. Do you have any experience using compressed air to check for leaks? I've seen a few guys go that route. Also, when I add the dye, I'm assuming I'll have to add more refrigerant in order to get the compressor working, yes? Once all this is done and I've found the leak, I'll start talking through a more precise recharge with a scale. For what it's worth, the only reason I didn't charge by weight last time is because I couldn't seem to find the specs for my particular Comanche. Thanks for your help so far! Really appreciate it!

To answer your questions, yes. I have worked on AC systems before. I'm by no means an expert but have a basic understanding of how they work. I have a 1987 Comanche. Straight 6 4.0 liter engine. It is a virgin R12 system. I ran the vacuum test for an hour. The system dropped to around 27-28 Hg. Perhaps that's part of the issue, but I felt that was close enough to attempt a recharge (correct me if I'm wrong). I opened up both service ports for the evacuation and closed the high pressure side for the recharge. I know the compressor works because it's currently engaging. 20 PSI is on the low pressure side. It's a Harbor Freight manifold and yes, I know how to use it. Also worth noting, the system blows cold. For all intensive purposes, the AC is currently functional. There are no visible leaks and the pressure holds at 20 PSI. It just won't go above that number. As far as the R12a stuff goes, it's made by a Canadian company called Red Tek. There are several posts on Comanche Club forums about it and people seem to have good results using it. From what I understand, it is a blend of hydrocarbons as you've stated.