DirtyComanche

We put Amsoil synthetic in all the Honda/Subaru pumps, generators, etc at work because they start easier in the cold with it. I doubt you would go wrong using a good synthetic.

I think the Durango box is 3 turns, but the ratio is the same, it just has larger internal stops. Basically, you might not hit your axle stops anymore and instead bottom out the piston in the box. I did not consider it a viable candidate because of this.

It isn't worth rebuilding. Because it isn't worn out. I'm serious. The bearings in these tcases go an extremely long time. Unless you're getting play with the case halves bolted together and the yoke on the front output, those bearings are fine. Likewise, on the rear (with the slip yoke off), unless you're getting play (up/down/side/side) the bearings are fine.

See Hornbrod's picture... Anything other than the top example is not okay, even if the yokes are only misaligned by a few degrees (the 90* example in the lower part of the picture is the worst case scenario). Reason being is that the shaft speeds up and slows down as the u-joints misalign, but this affect is canceled by the u-joints being in phase (the output, or pinion in this case, will not see a rhythmic changing of velocity). The wikipedia entry explains what's going on better than I can, if you care to read it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint

Korea would be fine. QC should be well in line with any domestic facility.

The ECU is what does the magic with it. The HO ECU has no provisions for this. But somebody in this thread hates the Renix and thinks it's 'weird', his loss.

It's an accelerometer or velocimeter and it has been filtered for the specific frequency of detonation. Honestly, they're standard equipment on most FI setups. I have never been able to wrap my head around the HO not having one.

IMHO, you do not need a double sheer setup for a tire carrier spindle. The entire point of a spindle (with tapered roller bearings) is to be able to run with support only on one end. Look at a front (or rear) spindle off a full floating axle. There's potentially thousands of pounds of static load on them, and umpteen thousands of pounds of dynamic load on them. They work fine. I believe a lot of what people ran in the past was poorly designed, poorly machined, used poor quality components, and poorly assembled... And the results were predictably poor. Now, if you wanted to run the Ruffstuff one with a bracket on it to make it double sheer, it's probably pretty easy to mod it to do so. They've left a center point in the top end of the spindle from when they turned it on a lathe. I'd just throw it back in the lathe, then drill the center with a 9/16" bit, and tap it to 5/8NF. You're a little tight on the tolerances using a 9/16", but most people don't have a 37/64" bit lying around. Anyways, I'd assume you don't have a lathe, but it would be quite feasible to do this by hand or in a drill press. You only need to drill it 1" deep as long as you have a bottoming tap (or an old tap to cut the end off). Then you can just bolt your bracket to the top of it. Unfortunately that wouldn't be doing much for the included cap seal, but I think one could put a tie rod end boot on it instead, or mod the cap they gave you, with a washer added between the spindle and bracket to allow clearance for the boot or cap; minor creativity required. Safety the castle nut with a spring clip or screw instead of a cotter pin. Also, Ruffstuff would probably drill and tap it for you for an additional charge. Of course, me telling you this now doesn't help much. But for future reference.

They absolutely are. If you sign up for their newsletter they will give you a discount code on a regular basis. I've never had any real issues with their products. I think the worst I can say is they build their diff covers larger than they need to be (for fluid capacity), which doesn't help if you have clearance issues. I've probably bought $4000 worth of parts off them over the years, so I've handled a lot of their stuff. Also, they user a laser cutter and a C&C bender with P&O steel, so the surface finishes are always nice, the bends are the correct angle and location, and the holes are to a reasonable tolerance.

Regarding the alternator, personally I think you're better off relocating it to the top of the engine. I haven't done that yet, but it's on my list. If I'm to do it I will probably delete the mechanical fan and extra idler at the same time, so it will be involving and is not a huge priority.

Weird. The two I have are not built like that. Either way, if the u-joints aren't in phase then it will vibrate, and the shaft is effectively garbage.

I'd buy a whole floor panel, XJ ones are cheap, then cut out the piece you need. Where those holes are, that should be a large patch. You don't even want to leave deeply pitted metal, even if it isn't through. So as said, wire wheel back from there and see how far you have to go. Get a good quality weld through primer and use it religiously. Use good paint and seam sealer when you're done, then undercoat the bottom again. Do not half @$$ rust repairs, it's just a complete waste of time if you do.

I doubt it. Pull the shaft and lay it on a flat floor, or look down the length of it. Are the u-joints still in phase?

Yeah. Local parts store quoted me like $300 for a reman. I hit RockAuto that night and clicked really hard on the buy button. It was one of their distributor closeout sales, which are normally really good deals, but by the time it gets to me the return period will have passed. Not like I'm sending it back for that price anyways. :laughin:

Yes. Quoted $240, I will pay less. Comes in 10' lengths. It's a backup solution. Basically it's the same stuff used to do big truck and equipment exhaust. If all else fails I will buy it and use it to do from the header to the muffler and have a bunch left over for something else. Do I want to do that? Nope. Would it work? Yup. I threw a Vibrant SS flex coupling in my cart, by the time it gets to me it's still $80. The cheaper Summit ones are NOT actually stainless pipe, just the flex part is. I suppose a guy could cut the pipe off them and just use the flex part to save money? :dunno: 10' of stainless exhaust pipe from the local exhaust shop is quoted at $300. :rotf: Parts store was a lot cheaper, still ugly. It's honestly cheaper for me to just buy the flex hose than it is to buy bends, a flex piece, and pipe to build it the more conventional (and right) way.

Looks like I'm sitting at $1200 CAD to do this. Nothing stainless is cheap. Yeah, I dunno. Doesn't make a lot of sense for a street driven wheeler.

You could install an early GM one. There's actually already one there, at least on my 89, I don't know what it's doing though and didn't feel like going back in the house to get the real wiring manual to find out. Zero mention of it in the Haynes manual.

Renix O2 sensors are 18mmx1.5 thread?

Ah, that is different.

I'm thinking if you pulled it from a junkyard and stole the brake light switch and spacer it would make it a drop in. Might have to splice the wires for the connector if it is different.

It's for firewall clearance primarily, I believe. Like I said, I just rolled the lip on mine to fix it. The pedal possibly is a little higher, but my pedals, seat, and floor are modded, so it's apples to bananas. Either my reman had the wrong rod in it, or you need the (later) adjustable brake light switch. I wound up grinding the rod a bit (too much) and then modified my switch to be adjustable. This added considerable time and I see zero mention of it anywhere else (it was a total surprise to me), so there's a good chance that my cheap reman was at least partly to blame. Edit, and if I wasn't a numpty I would have ground the rod correctly and saved a lot of time. Seriously, I own thousands of dollars of precision measuring equipment, and professionally work on critical components where tolerances are called out in tenths, and I chose to eyeball modifying the rod. :doh:

Use a booster/master from a 95-96 XJ with the 1/4" spacer plate on your 91. Much easier, pure PnP, and works just as well. I put mine on without a spacer. I just had to roll the lip on the firewall a bit. There isn't good yards here for pulling things, so I ordered the whole booster off Rockauto for $19 or something (reman). I did have to modify things a bit to make the brake light switch work. Or maybe work. I should check that it's actually doing something still. :eek:

Welding SS exhaust isn't rocket science. No TIG here. Last one I did I used my stick welder, actually. :rotf: I honestly don't care how it looks, I just care that it doesn't rust. I hate rust. Real bad. If I ever built a Jeep Jeep I would just phone Aqualu for the entire body. Luckily (maybe?) I'm not terribly into normal Jeeps. I called the local parts house for some SS flex hose, and they've got 10' set aside for me. I'm going to order some other parts, but that will be a backup if things aren't going to work out. I do not believe in any style of clamp joint other than V-bands or donuts. I would not use a clamp on O2 bung. I might do suspect work, and it might take me a long time, but it's always welded together in a manner that won't come apart.

Oh absolutely. Believe it or don't, there's whole books dedicated to leaf spring design and I don't think any of them would recommend a shackle near that length for springs of that length and curvature. Not to say it doesn't work.

Yes. Among other things. The sch system is sizing only, and I believe even the plastic (PVC/ABS/etc) pipe is actually the same dimensions as the steel pipe.