DirtyComanche

Turns out I didn't need to leave town, work cancelled on me, so I got a little more done on this and managed to get the rear brakes hooked up. Mockup of how it's hopefully going to look: Image Not Found Gotta swap some parts in the front suspension (coils, track bar, might try to get some caster shims in for now), bleed the rear brakes again (dunno what went wrong, the calipers being upside down doesn't make it easy though), fix a few other little things, maybe put the rear flares on and try to straighten the terrible rear bumper out a bit, then get some insurance.

Might be time to organize a group buy. I suspect a lot of our members would be interested. If there was a market for them (which there probably is...) somebody could bring a whole seacan in and sell them off over time.

Link to it?

Turns out the hoses are metric, which I suspected, but I couldn't get a metric line to thread into them in the parts store. Damnit, my fault it stripped. Will reevaluate tomorrow.

One of the rear brake hoses I bought was bunk, stripped out the threads before I could get it to seal. I highly doubt there will be on in stock anywhere near here. Pretty much screwed all chances of having this thing driving for the next couple weeks.

My ecm got water damage, if its not a late model one then why would someone write that on there? It might have been in two or three different vehicles by now. Who knows.

Well, that first picture isn't exactly what a guy wants to see. How corrosive was the water?

No clutch packs or VC in the 242, so yeah, you can put an additive in it. Personally I'd probably resort to synthetic 0W30, or Amsoil 5W30 Synchromesh (which allegedly if thinner than Dex or +4 below 0*F), but I would do more research first. I know lots of guys with diesel trucks do something along these lines as it seems to help. Also, while I have limited use for AA's technical advice, they always say to put RTV or Formagasket on the speedo drive o-ring... Given the case it already screwed, I'd goop it up with either without a second thought.

That's too bad. My condolences to his family and friends. :(

Like I said, the XJ harness has a second plug for the wiper motor for the rear hatch. I've never considered looking, but I could see (some/all) MJ harnesses having it even though it wouldn't be used.

I put the tcase back in, which meant I had to fix the shifter. I went through my pile of tcases to see if I had a style of arm that bolts to the tcase that would work better, and I didn't really, so I decided to make one. Image Not Found I put two holes in it for no reason. If it didn't work on the top hole then it wasn't going to work. The throw ratio is 1:1 using the stock gated shifter, which is what the upper hole is. Installed: Image Not Found The rod ends are actually from some tailrotor pitch links, they aren't worn out so I'm guessing I got them from something that crashed. The threaded rod is stainless, left over from one of the JB twinstick kits I bought. Anyways, seems to work good. It might disengage under torque, if so it's because the motor mounts are a little soft and will go on my next order. Also, the random driveshaft I had hanging up on the wall fits perfectly in the rear. Which is what I was really hoping. Front and rear driveshafts are bolted back in so this thing is officially 4wd for the first time in, umm, ever?

I wanted to say that but he said it doesn't... XJ harness with a pigtail for the rear wiper pump?

I don't think so. It isn't collectable as it has been 'restored.' At least that's IMHO. So it's just a clean Comanche with a 4L and a column shift auto. I'd give him $5000, honest offer, but I'd have to look at it and talk about who did the paint/prep.

Big brown one is the low wiper fluid switch, which is optional. I'd have to check for the other one.

I'd grab it if it's tight and cheap. Having a spare column is never a bad thing... Reminds me I need to swap the one in my XJ for my spare.

:( Hope they know what's wrong with him and can fix it.

Yeah, I wouldn't risk it. You could try in a couple months when the paint is fully cured, but even then it might not go well.

Apparently it has been done, but you have to mod a fair whack of things in the doors and play with the seals a bit. I asked for pictures, they were not forthcoming, thus I will consider it to be unicorn/chupacabra status for now, although I believe that anything is possible with enough time/money/willingness to screw with things.

It will work fine.

Yeah, they're closer to being inline with the door handles, eh? Mine doesn't have the emblems since it's a 2wd, well, rare front wheel drive model... :doh:

Looks like it just rolled out of the showroom. :thumbsup:

The later ECM is better. You can use an auto ECM in an manual. Cruiser will tell you what the ECM is by P/N alone...

Figured as much. I'll see if I've got the space to pull the little poppet out and put a barb in, otherwise I'll just leave it for now. I mostly wanted to make sure there wasn't a nipple somewhere on it and no hose connected...

You'll need to know lift height too... I'd really recommend putting the parts in place and measuring it.

And I'm going to look for this, but maybe somebody will answer... There was no vent hose on the tcase, so I figured there probably wasn't one on the tranny either. I looked around on it and nope, can't see one, but I don't see a nipple for one either. So, where is the vent hose supposed to be attached on an AX-15?