DirtyComanche

I don't think so. It isn't collectable as it has been 'restored.' At least that's IMHO. So it's just a clean Comanche with a 4L and a column shift auto. I'd give him $5000, honest offer, but I'd have to look at it and talk about who did the paint/prep.

Big brown one is the low wiper fluid switch, which is optional. I'd have to check for the other one.

I'd grab it if it's tight and cheap. Having a spare column is never a bad thing... Reminds me I need to swap the one in my XJ for my spare.

:( Hope they know what's wrong with him and can fix it.

Yeah, I wouldn't risk it. You could try in a couple months when the paint is fully cured, but even then it might not go well.

Apparently it has been done, but you have to mod a fair whack of things in the doors and play with the seals a bit. I asked for pictures, they were not forthcoming, thus I will consider it to be unicorn/chupacabra status for now, although I believe that anything is possible with enough time/money/willingness to screw with things.

It will work fine.

Yeah, they're closer to being inline with the door handles, eh? Mine doesn't have the emblems since it's a 2wd, well, rare front wheel drive model... :doh:

Looks like it just rolled out of the showroom. :thumbsup:

The later ECM is better. You can use an auto ECM in an manual. Cruiser will tell you what the ECM is by P/N alone...

Figured as much. I'll see if I've got the space to pull the little poppet out and put a barb in, otherwise I'll just leave it for now. I mostly wanted to make sure there wasn't a nipple somewhere on it and no hose connected...

You'll need to know lift height too... I'd really recommend putting the parts in place and measuring it.

And I'm going to look for this, but maybe somebody will answer... There was no vent hose on the tcase, so I figured there probably wasn't one on the tranny either. I looked around on it and nope, can't see one, but I don't see a nipple for one either. So, where is the vent hose supposed to be attached on an AX-15?

Got the tcase split open and the SYE installed: Image Not Found I really need to straighten out that rear bumper... Rear axle back in: Image Not Found Gotta do brake lines, vent line, probably a few other small things... And figure out what ebrake cables I'm going to order and hope will work. Unfortunately I got all rammy when I removed the D35 and made only a small effort to save the stock ebrake cables before I resorted to cutting them. They might have been workable... Not really any way to know now. Another shot of the installed caliper/brackets/spacer if anyone else is silly enough to duplicate this swap: Image Not Found

Link here has some discussion of beds and stuff, and I made some comments: http://comancheclub.com/topic/12297-damaged-box-need-advice/?hl=flatdeck&do=findComment&comment=121120 And pictures from when I finished it? No idea if there's other pictures: http://comancheclub.com/topic/954-got-flatbed/?hl=flatbed Long time ago... Miss that truck. I just realized I still have the plates hanging on the wall though. . :MJ 1: .

It was 12? years ago... Not sure how easy it is to even find. :rotf: I'll look for a link for you... Edit, looks like before I was a member here? Or posted much here?

A leaking water pump is a totally reasonable cause for this. As you said, keep an eye on it.

My first? build thread shows how I made the one in my avatar. Disclaimer, I was pretty hack then, it was a long time ago... Honestly, it's not hard to build, I think I looked at some guys who made one for a Cheby truck and just went for it... The mount points on the MJ are all level and parallel, IIRC, so it's even easier than most vehicles. Decide what features you want (fixed or removable sides, integrated roll bar, headache rack, tie-down points, stake pockets, etc) and what material you want to use (aluminum, steel, wood, mixed, etc), bust out the tapemeasure, pen, and paper, and draw something up and ask opinions. If you plan to wheel it I would shy away from a true flatdeck and build wheel wells into it, like the one I made. Alternatively, if you want it all flat, I'd build wheelwells and put a pull out drawer down the center or something of that nature. Otherwise it's a bit of a wasteful design as the deck height has to be quite high to allow for adequate wheel travel.

Most likely. Finding a Comanche rear axle can be a bit of a challenge if you're sticking to conventional means. "Close enough" or "We'll swap the front later" or just pure ignorance is likely the rest of it.

Yeah, Portage, I'll never forget that place. It's where my dad threatened to leave me while on a road trip in '98. :rotf:

The real party to blame here is the mainstream media. They live by selling smut, derision, and hate. Which is what their 'contribution' to society has been for a long while now. The plain factual truth does not sell, but racial tension, fearmongering, and manufactured drama sure does.

Bodywork looks good from here. You guys got a ton done. :thumbsup:

Please don't waste money on the Teralow 4:1 kit for the NP231. They screwed up pretty bad when they designed it and it does not live a long life if you actually use it... A Rubicon tcase can be found for about the same (or less) money and makes more sense if you really want a 4:1 setup. A Blackbox/Ecobox is another good option since we don't have issues with the rear driveshaft getting too short. But if you have the money, an Atlas is never the wrong choice.

Nana nana nana nana nana nana Batbracket! Image Not Found Cut out: Image Not Found Welded on: Image Not Found And I did a spray n' pray paintjob on the axle tubes. I'll get a picture of the calipers actually mounted at some point, maybe... But either way, it looks like it works.

I won't comment on dual fans, other than to say I ran dual Taurus aux fans, it works if you want it to. I will say I think you're chasing the wrong issue. The cooling system is not behaving how it should, and I would suggest that you verify actual operating temperature by means other than the terribly inaccurate factory gauge. Gut instinct is you have an issue with your tstat, water pump, or your overflow bottle is the incorrect one, cracked, or does not have the correct or a broken drawstraw in it.