ghetdjc320

I’ll see if I can find the Bluetooth module that I picked up. Jeremy had it patched in and working. The issue we had is the output of the Bluetooth is a bit too hot for the jeep radio preamp board. I’m sure some added resistance to lower down the output voltage of the module or perhaps the input voltage from the fm receiver would take care of that. It’s the ideal scenario though once thats been taken care of. As for the radio project, well, it’s coming up on 3 years. Hoping some day to finish this up Edit: found it https://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1114

I sent my Rx171 to @Minuit Back a few years ago for this very purpose. Unfortunately, my radio or Bluetooth adapter haven’t been returned, but the results were promising. I sourced a really nice Bluetooth 5.0 module that intercepted the FM radio side. Essentially the Bluetooth itself had the aux input that we tied the fm radio to. The output went to the radio’s preamp. This eliminated the radio bleed through issue that the aux input introduced. The Bluetooth was the priority signal. The Bluetooth module itself could also be programmed to adjust a wide variety of parameters. Really cool stuff, but I guess we’ll never know if it works

If you are turning on a hard, dry surface, it will hop and buck like crazy. Good way to break u joints. If you’re going to drive in part time 4wd on hard surface, try not to turn

The ideal recipe I found for my 4.0 MJ was a mishimoto (or cold case) radiator, heavy duty Hayden fan clutch from a ZJ, a good 7 blade mech fan, and the late model XJ 10 blade e fan (but get it on a 40a relay with good solid wiring) and make sure to run the mechanical shroud. Good good, quality stock flow water pump (I dumped my flow kooler for an AC delco gold pump). And some quality stainless hose clamps that don’t bite into the hoses. If you want to go all out, get the Novak radiator for an AMC engine. Thickest core and highest capacity currently available afaik, though it will require some slight mods. But I’d recommend not running triple e fans on a stock electrical system. There isn’t enough amperage available to maintain charging voltage, and those e fans need to run at charging voltage (~13.8-14v) to flow enough cfm to cool.

Are you getting fused power in the pdc?

Are those some sort of remote adjusters or a reservoir?

Rotella is some good stuff. JASO rated as well. I’d stick with it. Don’t see any down side to running the synthetic as it still has zddp.

The track bar bracket shouldn’t shift. Try to rock the steering back and forth with power steering on concrete. It also helps to place fingers across both the fixed and possible mobile joints. For instance, for tie rod ends, fingers across the body and joint while using the method above may reveal some movement that is not always obvious to the eyes.

And as for the whole “what if I had manual steering scenario”, a manual steering box would have a different gear reduction which would provide the same amount of steering force whether the truck is running for not though the helper may need a bit more muscle to yield similar effects when the truck isn’t moving. You’re looking for the slightest play in components. While driving, the forces exerted on the steering and suspension components are much stronger, so you’re trying to emulate that as best you can while parked. With power steering and engine running, rocking the steering wheel back and forth in short order or turning it lock to lock may reveal the issue. In my scenario, I noticed the frame side track bar bracket moving slightly “independently” of the frame. It wasn’t huge but that’s where the problem was and no amount of torquing bolts would stop it as the bracket itself is what failed as it is multiple sheets of metal folded and spot welded together in typical AMC/Mopar fashion. In my TJR it was a tie rod end, on my TJS it was the axle side track bar hole. It doesn’t take much.

Do this with the engine running. You need the power steering to be running to get this accurate. And look carefully at the TB frame mount location on the inner frame rail.

Do you mean could you swap in a c clip axle into a non c clip housing? If so, unfortunately the answer is no. The bearing shoulder journal size is incompatible. length and splines are the same though.

I installed a skim on my TJR. It did require the dealer to program it into the ecu but was a non event otherwise. From my understanding, a failure of the skim will fail-secure and will immobilize. I liked the skim system overall.

Sounds like Hesco lol. The high flow t stat housing is a gimick. You need to keep the coolant in the block long enough to exchange the heat. Same goes for the radiator. High flow pumps only really work when you have increased capacity that matches.

Shocks. Grab some OME and enjoy the ride

I battled DW Coming from the TB on my last MJ and some on my new one as well. The best setup I got that cured it was the Iron Man Fab track bar setup. You get a double sheet frame side bracket that keep the stock angles, a cross frame tie bar which greatly stabilizes that bracket, and a solid tie rod with different axle side bolt sizes to choose from. I went up to 1/2” and welded on some 14mm thick cuts and washers as well to reinforce the axle side bracket. After that all DW was gone. When I did steering tests on dry pavement with the engine running, you could see the oem frame side track bar bracket separating at its weld joint meet the frame. The factory seems to have designed it for light duty and low use.

Been down this road many times, it is likely the triple e fans not getting sufficient voltage (the MJ electrical system doesn’t have enough power to spare to run 3 high cfm fans in its stock form) or the flowkooler pump. The mishimoto rads are generally very solid and a good upgrade. Check all your hoses and clamps as well. It only takes a pinhole of a leak to overheat. Does it cool down when your are cruising at higher speeds? Are you sure you bled all the air out? The other items you listed are lower on the suspect list. Though, I would ask, your 12hole injectors are rated the proper flow rate at the MJ fuel pressure? Only reason I ask is that most are rated at 3 bar or more of fuel pressure..

I think mine was around 1500 or 2k.

The Crutchfield kit is the better priced option

Boxy makes rear speaker brackets. It’s a good product but won’t really help your situation. You can run a stock size 5.25 door speaker or you can run a 6.5 if your open to some slight trimming.some sound deadening in your doors will do wonders for any speaker you choose. Without going into extra details as to why, here is what I’d suggest: This amp: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CX36T/Kicker-46CXA360-4T.html?tp=35782 These speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651KSS50/Kicker-KSS50.html This sound deadening kit: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_239SSKSEK/Soundskins-SSK-SEK-Speaker-Enhancement-Kit.html This amp kit: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK8/Crutchfield-CK8-Amp-Wiring-Kit.html Two of these: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CMER206/Crutchfield-Reference-2-Channel-RCA-Patch-Cables-6-foot.html If you want to run a sub down the road then grab a 4awg install kit with a small splitter you can mount in the cab to adapt (2) 8awg cables, one for amp and one for compact sub. Feel free to choose other speakers but this setup is a fantastic sound quality, quantity and bang for buck combo. You can run the tweeter in the woofer as a coaxial type speaker or split them and run the tweeter in the door or dash knee panel. You could definitely run the 6.5 version of this kit if you’re ok with some light trimming. I’d recommend going 6.5 if you’re skipping a sub for now. If you want better quality sound, grab some dynamite extreme and line the doors thoroughly. If you want to take things further from there, add the rear speakers since you’ll have the amp outputs already. But a 2.1 system with front components speakers and a single sub is really clean. You can run a simple powered sub. Kicker hideaway if you want something basic. JL Microsub+ 8” if you want more.

Why not use an alarm tilt sensor? Very simple normally open contact that closes when tilted past a preset point. They are used in car alarms to deter theft by tow truck

Truck covers USA. They have built a couple of Comanche covers and are the best in the biz. They offer Yakima tracks you can mount your camping gear and tent to. If you go that route @Limeyjeeper has the spec sheet for them to build the MJ cover. I'm running one as well. It is an exceptional cover with stellar after sales support.

If there is a need for kit testers, let me know

I was thinking the same thing. Remarkable that you can get body panels and tail lights galore now. As for HO sensors, the mopar ones are definitely low stock but I’ve found some of the aftermarket has produced some decent sensors and parts to keep things running

A good solvent based ceramic coating is excellent for plastics, glass and paint . I get about a year out of it here on our extremely harsh conditions. I use Migliore but there are other great options.

Certain years f150 and explorers share leaf spring lengths and are very close to the same offset as Comanche’s. They don’t have much arch in their factory forms but can make decent SOA springs from the ones I’ve seen. Load capacities also vary.