Pete M

is there assembly lube on everything?

yes. benches use the same hardware, but only one actual slider per seat.

My t-case skid is 1/4" plate that I had the steel shop bend up 1" on each side (I needed one made for my control arm crossmember and it was cheap to have a second one made up). not sure if that works for a stock t-case though, as my trans/tcase is from a wrangler and so is up a bit higher. I finally found a stock fuel tank metal skid that will eventually be going on.

you clearly have the skills. I would just make my skids.

pretty sure the tow mirrors are the same left to right

do you have rocker guards? that's most important.

rust, rust, and rust. just because they are "special" doesn't mean they got any special treatment from Chrysler when they were built.

damn those are some sweet cuts

if you start one, I'm sure other guys will chime in with their thoughts.

and you're going to copy/paste that into a DIY thread, yes? we could definitely use a master brakes thread.

oh wow!

ouch! is there an official path for driving down to it?

indeed!

weld in what new panel? the bed corner? that can be popped back out by any decent body shop.

I'm not doubting the logic of a universal harness, I'm mad that the ends just dangle about in the engine bay.

in AMC's infinite genius the wire harnesses were built for multiple trim levels and they just left the extra wires dangling around if not needed on that particular truck.

beautiful! the mountains are full of cool stuff.

having said all that, it is possible (though unlikely) that your front combo valve was poorly machined and the emergency bypass doesn't connect. Eagle found one like that.

I think you're supposed to leave the rear closed when you open up a front to move the internal bypass. you need to fake that eh fronts have failed so that the system opens up the bypass line. be sure to have a hose/bottle hooked up to the front open bleeder so you catch the fluid.

the most common are windshield seals and hvac gaskets but literally every hole in the sheetmetal has leaked for some poor soul at some point in time. door seals, door windows, rear windows, fusebox seal, etc. Everything should be tested. I once had a leak at the top left corner of my windshield in the 86 that dribbled down inside the a-pillar and dumped out onto the floor at the kickpanel. if it wasn't for the powder trick I'd have never found that one. I had another leak in my 88 that originated from the seal at the back of the hood and dribbled down in the engine bay 'til it found a non-factory wire that poked through a gasket in the firewall that wasn't perfectly sealed up. all should be suspect, all should be tested.

I love it update on the wiper motor?

wow, those old ones were toast