Pete M

I put my camper shell right on the liner. but the liner has holes cut for the clamps.

I'm still looking for my folder of camper vans and Jeeps. might be in an older harddrive I guess. It was full of pics that had some good ideas in them for odds and ends and storage. I did come across these two while looking for something else I seriously want a fold down tailgate shelf on my KJ!

ya know, we have a forum for cools things like that https://comancheclub.com/forum/40-member-projects-other-cool-stuff/

nah, it's for the decklid of various AMC cars

in stock form it's built for torque more than horsepower. you could even get the Metric Ton package with the 2.5L! I doubt your Volvo can carry 2200# in the back. but it's 30 years old. at least now we know the injector is a GM unit and so you can still get replacements.

usually you should measure from the center of the hub to the flare so as to not being in the variation in tire sizes. 235s should be fine. 30x9.5s might even work. you can also keep the super awesome turbines you've got and add just wheel spacers keep in mind that a lot of locations have laws against tires sticking out. also, also, you can add wheel spacers to only the rear to make everything look balanced. see, the MJ has a bit of a wide butt... couple inches wider than an XJ back there. And so adding spacers to just the rear axle will bring those tires out and stop it from looking tucked-in.

I wish I had 120 across the board! what size tires? what rear axle ratio? how long since the last tuneup and fuel/air filters? I'm assuming it's the original injector?

I've got some LED bulbs coming and am curious if I can yes them for both applications. we shall see.

now I have a pair. not exactly sure what I'm going to do with them yet, but 2 is better than one.

new fan clutch is in. engine holds its temp better (still need to test while pulling a trailer), but the A/C is still luke warm once temps go above 80*. rolling the windows down felt better than the A/C. with my bypass of the fan relay I'm now pulling maximum air through the radiators to no net gain. I might have to suck it up and hit a repair shop to check the refrigerant levels. I did my best to dig into the dash to get at the module that talks to the key fobs and discovered that I don't have such a thing. there's a molded spot for it just like I saw in pics, but no module there. which is weird since I clearly have keyfobs that unlock the doors (when they want to). must be integrated into the BCM in '06 I guess. but the fact I was messing with it made the fobs suddenly start working again! but then they stopped again once I made it to town and wiggling the BCM and wiring didn't fix it again. I think I might rename the project thread to "2 steps forward, one step back..."

what numbers are you getting? which technique are you using?

thanks!

congrats!

I don't normally poke fun at sellers that put an OBO on their item (at least there's a chance they might have realistic expectations), but daaaaaaaaaaang that's a lot to ask for an old radio.

my google skills are failing me today. is it a wattage difference? the 74 lights up the items in the far left panel in the gauge cluster. the 37 lights up the switches (fog lights, etc)

I think it's the longbed S-10s that are close?

stock height? what size tires are you looking to run?

oh my!

and on that note, old U-joints don't always like changes in their operating angles, so you might develop minor vibrations that are only cured by installing new joints.

yay! no more driving goggles!

technically you don't have to do anything. the stock rear shaft should work fine with a 4.5 lift.

stay safe my friend it's time for a little camping-at-home.

that was most wise

sweet!