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Piilgrim82

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Can Spell Comanche

Can Spell Comanche (2/11)

  1. Thanks guys! Makes sense that it’s the transfer case. Hopefully I haven’t damaged anything too bad…would the most obvious sign just be metal deposits in the tcase fluid when I change it? Yes, just trying to save on wear but also the nagging voice in my head saying driving around all winter in 4 hi is a no no when the manual seems insist it’s only for temporary use. Then again, they had more than just guys like me in Northern Canada who drive on snow/ice/compact snow all winter in mind when they wrote it haha. (The city I’m in thankfully doesn’t salt the roads, they just keep them cleared as best they can and spread a very fine gravel on top. Works fairly well and cuts down on the rust, but without enough gravel compact snow is like driving on ice haha.) I’ll definitely look into the CAD delete for next winter!
  2. With a cad delete do you know if you can go into 4 hi while stationary?
  3. Ok, I’ll have to look into that. Whatever it is that’s not meshing, you hear a grind the a significant thud and it sort of surges forward as it engages. It sounds like it’s coming from right beneath the driver so it never crossed my mind that maybe it was the CAD.
  4. No, haven’t done that. Could that be causing the issues?
  5. Hello all, I have a 90 pioneer 4.0 manual 4x4. I live way up North where half the year I’m driving in snow and ice, so I spend a good portion of my time in 4 hi. Occasionally while trying to reduce wear I’ve stayed in 2wd a little too long to the point of getting stuck. Whenever this happens I have to shift into 4 wheel hi and let the wheels spin until it engages…but let me tell you, the massive thud and grinding noise that happens as the transfer case engages makes me want to cry. I’ve read the owner’s manual and other threads and of course all I can find is that you’re supposed to shift into 4 hi while “moving at any speed”….my question is, is there a way to get into 4wd when you’re already stuck without abusing your transfer case like this? Or maybe my transfer case has something wrong and I’m the only one with this problem? Any help would be appreciated, as multiple occasions of this happening has led me to just drive in 4hi most of the winter rather than risk getting stuck and further damaging things!
  6. Well, fingers crossed! I already paid the deposit on them...I’ll post an update once I have them on! :)
  7. PS I went to measure what the bump stop gap is that I currently have, and it's about 2.5 in on the front and back...if my math is right that should stop the 30x9.5's from hitting the fender flares!
  8. INCREDIBLY helpful! I'll look into cheaper alternatives, it did seem pricey for what you get. I saw that Rough Country has a 3" kit for cheaper price https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-625-20.html ...is pretty much guarunteed that at 3" I'd need those extra bits, or is it case by case? For the immediate future my concern is just the back wheels rubbing the fenders as I'll be towing a trailer and so running at max GVWR and don't wanna be dragging those tires in the wheel wells....but wanting a lift for the more fun activities too!
  9. I'm thinking of this one https://www.4wheelparts.ca/p/skyjacker-2-inch-suspension-lift-kit-with-black-max-shocks-xj20-b/_/R-BHNG-XJ20-B....if it could solve any clearance problems plus give me a lift, that would be nice. From what I gather, higher than 2" becomes a lot more involved.
  10. Wow, thanks for the quick reply! Super helpful as I am trying to order what I need as soon as possible. So you're thinking spring spacer (the don't/hockey puck) in front, and then bump stop in back? Looking at your profile pic I really like your setup! How much lift are you running, and what is your opinion on a 2" lift (vs 3-6in)?
  11. Hey @Pete M a bit of news and a couple more questions...I decided to order these bad boys https://www.4wheelparts.ca/p/method-race-wheels-301-the-standard-15x7-with-5-on-4-5-bolt-pattern-matte-black-mr30157012506n/_/R-GNQP-MR30157012506N?_requestid=73182# I'll hang on to my wagon wheel aluminum wheels (maybe for studded tires) but just wanted something to give me the width I want in the front then I can still ad a spacer in the back to even them out if I decide I'd rather the look. ...These have 3.75in backspacing, so my concern now is that I've seen in other threads people saying going with less backspacing means that at full compression the tire can smash the fender flare...do you think this will be the case if I go with a 30x9.5 tire? I'm thinking of getting the BF Goodrich K02 All Terrains. If you think there could be an issue there, do you think a 2" lift would do the trick? From what I'm seeing they look cheap and easy to do.
  12. Hahaha it sure sounds like it! I’ll give @87MJTIM’s advice a try before I pull you all into this any further :) Oh and yes, @jdog fuse is good!
  13. Thanks for all the help! Are there any spacer you’d recommend? Old links I’ve found on other pages have an expired URL :/
  14. I guess I’m also assuming it’s “stock”...here are some photos, looks like from the top of my tires to the bottom of the fender flare I’m currently 5in in the rear and 4.5 in the front (I’m assuming due to the weight of the winch on the front bumper). As for tires I’d run as large as I can, but I think I’ve seen on other posts that 235/75r15 is the widest people recommend on a 15x7 wheel?
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