what did you do to your MJ today?

[Tex06]

Got the new oil pan and gasket installed. Forgot to torque the bolts down and it leaked a bit at first but we're looking good now. 

[Pete M]

Safelite came by to replace the windshield and we found surface rust under the urethane.   so I spent the rest of the day fixing that and tarping it up until next week when they can come back and finish instalation.  rear window is getting done too. 

 

 

[Tex06]

1 hour ago, Pete M said:

Safelite came by to replace the windshield and we found surface rust under the urethane.   so I spent the rest of the day fixing that and tarping it up until next week when they can come back and finish instalation.  rear window is getting done too. 

 

 

At least you found it early on! 

[Pete M]

at this point I'm prepared to suggest to every owner to get your windshield replaced and R+R  your rear window just to check for rust and refresh your urethane seal.   

 

also, now I have first-hand experience as to why no one should every even try to remove a windshield with the hope of using it again.    35 year old laminated glass SUCKS.

[gogmorgo]

Out of curiosity, what tools were used to attempt removing it? 
Up here even if a windsheild isn’t cracked, it’s usually pitted to heck. Not generally worth reusing most of the time. 

[Pete M]

utility knife, glass knife (the funky one that you can pull on) and the piano wire saw thing (technical term).  the plastic inside was definitely sun baked and so the outer layer of the glass just cracked or broke off at the slightest force.       I've seen guys remove 60 year old windshields from classic cars where the glass was worth like 5 grand, so with enough care anything is possible.  but old laminated glass that's readily available is just not worth the attempt.  in my opinion. 

[gogmorgo]

Oh yeah. For sure. There was a bit of a hiccup a few years back where people were thinking the ‘96- glass was unobtainium, but that’s not the case. 
60-year-old glass is usually held in less permanently, just rubber gaskets and whatnot. Makes it a ton easier to get out without damage. But for cutting out glass you want to salvage, and I’ve said this enough recently even I find myself exhausting, the cutting string that goes the full circumference of the windsheild (à la Orange Bay) is definitely the way to go. Way less stress on the glass. I wouldn’t be impressed with a professional glass guy who showed up to salvage my windsheild with only the old knives. Even if I wasn’t trying to salvage anything, the string is also significantly less likely to damage the vehicle’s paint. Especially when cutting through rock-hard urethane. Yeah the old school guys have gotten really good with the knives, and they do work. But it’s pretty telling that they’d all rather try to squeeze more urethane into a leaking windsheild than cut it out entirely and start over. 

[olddude]

I have been working on my on-going problem. Several years ago I started having a problem starting my truck, turn the switch and nothing. I replaced the start relay, no help, so I replaced the the ignition switch, which is a pita. Then it was a sometimes thing, it would start just fine for a while then, no start. I installed a remote start button under the hood, connecting direct to the starter. Most of the time it would start just fine occasionally no start and I would use the remote.

I have not been driving the truck much so I start it up occasionally or drive it on a errand and I would have to use the remote to start it. So, last week I decided to do some of the things that I have been putting off. Replaced the valve cover gasket. Got that done and running it to check for leaks and noticed a drip from the thermostat  housing, and replaced the gasket. Then, leak checking that and noticed a leak from the power steer pump. Replaced the pump and had to wait a week for a pressure hose.

So, now I am back to the start problem. I decided the ignition switch is either bad or not adjusted correctly. I replaced the switch again, no start and none of the instruments work (I pulled the instrument panel for access). When I turn the switch to the start position the radio and the computer screen goes out. I think it must be a wiring problem. Where to start

[gogmorgo]

5 hours ago, olddude said:

I have been working on my on-going problem. Several years ago I started having a problem starting my truck, turn the switch and nothing. I replaced the start relay, no help, so I replaced the the ignition switch, which is a pita. Then it was a sometimes thing, it would start just fine for a while then, no start. I installed a remote start button under the hood, connecting direct to the starter. Most of the time it would start just fine occasionally no start and I would use the remote.

I have not been driving the truck much so I start it up occasionally or drive it on a errand and I would have to use the remote to start it. So, last week I decided to do some of the things that I have been putting off. Replaced the valve cover gasket. Got that done and running it to check for leaks and noticed a drip from the thermostat  housing, and replaced the gasket. Then, leak checking that and noticed a leak from the power steer pump. Replaced the pump and had to wait a week for a pressure hose.

So, now I am back to the start problem. I decided the ignition switch is either bad or not adjusted correctly. I replaced the switch again, no start and none of the instruments work (I pulled the instrument panel for access). When I turn the switch to the start position the radio and the computer screen goes out. I think it must be a wiring problem. Where to start

Ever cleaned out the neutral safety switch? Pretty common for it to cause a no-crank, and they usually just need disassembled and cleaned. You’ll likely need to correct whatever went down during the ignition switch replacement. 

[olddude]

9 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

Ever cleaned out the neutral safety switch? Pretty common for it to cause a no-crank, and they usually just need disassembled and cleaned. You’ll likely need to correct whatever went down during the ignition switch replacement. 

Thanks, I will look at that.

[Bezerk1]

Today I started my attention on getting KrustyBallers16 hitch installed on the Olympic MJ. Took the bumper off first and got rid of the 1 7/8 ball that was on it. Had to replace a bulb in one of the license plate light too. Then did a dry fit test to see if hitch needed tweaking before painting. Fit very well, and krusty’s welds are picture perfect. Well worth the money for his hitch, next I’ll take to get it powder coated. Can’t wait to see I with bumper on 

[eaglescout526]

Went to the cruise in. Little while later this gem showed up and had to park next to it

 

[OldSch88L]

I'm finally dealing with the scary/sketchy/annoying stuff; last week-end I finally modified and put in a Jeep TJ clutch master to go with the TJ external slave and transmission, to replace my second stock MJ master that lasted less than a year, and still wouldn't completely disengage the clutch. Works fine now. And today I finally put in a '96 XJ dual diaphragm brake booster. The stock brake system was scary; turns out that when my master let go a while ago, it leaked in the booster, ruining it, and also causing a vacuum leak that I've been chasing for months, making my truck run lean and rough on startup and open loop. I'll be installing the '96 XJ master in the coming days

[Pete M]

new glass! 

 

 

[olddude]

[olddude]

On 4/15/2023 at 1:14 AM, gogmorgo said:

Ever cleaned out the neutral safety switch? Pretty common for it to cause a no-crank, and they usually just need disassembled and cleaned. You’ll likely need to correct whatever went down during the ignition switch replacement. 

You were correct. I replaced the switch and the truck started right up. Thanks.

[gogmorgo]

1 hour ago, olddude said:

You were correct. I replaced the switch and the truck started right up. Thanks.

If you want a spare, pop the old one apart and clean it out. There’s some screws around the outside edges, pull them and it should split in half. Get all the junk out of it, clean any corrosion off the copper bits, and get a healthy coating of dielectric grease all over everything. There’s a gasket/o-ring around the outer edge, but I ran some RTV around it as well, just make sure not to grease the sealing surfaces. That’s all I did to mine maybe eight years ago and I haven’t had an issue with it since. 

[jeff351]

I realized I couldn't get the bed out of my shop with my current configuration so I figured out a way to prop up the bed with a couple of welded brackets. Now working on installing a 98 XJ gas tank to finish off my 97+ conversion. More to follow...  

[Eagle_SX4]

Last weekend fixed my sagging driver's door. Replaced the hinge pins and reshimmed the door. Now it close like new.

[OldSch88L]

Finally done on the '96 XJ booster and master, and '99 XJ clutch master, but man is it tight in there now!!!

[Classy Comanche]

Finally bought me a brand new muffler to be put on since it looks as it does down below and because it's very noisy at 40-45

[Pete M]

rear window and brake/bed light are in!     cab is now ~97% rain proof. 

 

 

[watchamakalit]

17 hours ago, Pete M said:

rear window and brake/bed light are in!     cab is now ~97% rain proof. 

 

 

What light is that?  Any closer pics?

[Pete M]

aftermarket LED for a ranger/superduty.  it's pretty nerve racking to cut such a large hole in an MJ roof.  (especially one that isn't yours!)

 

I'll do a writeup once it's functional.   

[Bezerk1]

I got the hitch and sports bar back from the powder coating co. And installed them on the MJ. A very special thank you to Shoveldead for hooking me up with the sports bar. He wanted to trade it for a swb bar but no  takers at the time so he sold it to me with much regrets. And to krustyballer for making a great looking and fitting hitch.