Eagle_SX4

Finally found a picture of the wheel I am hoping to find. This is an '87 XJ that was on bring a trailer 2 years ago. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987-jeep-cherokee-26/

When I held it up to my axle it was close to the exhaust but it will clear just fine on my long bed. I will need to get a little more creative with the mounting tabs on mine as the links end up in space on the inside of the frame.

That is a very nice truck. It is a full '96 swap with obd2. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1988-jeep-comanche-44/

That is looking great. I love the material you chose for the seat.

Picked up a NP242 out of a '95 ZJ today. It bolts right up to the AX15. It needs to be pressure washed then should be good to go. It shifts through all the gears and turns smoothly. I will run it as is for now and rebuild it only if needed. I also pulled a driveshaft out of a different '96 ZJ so I can have it shortened once everything else is swapped in.

Thanks, I was at the junkyard today and picked one up. It is really cool how Chevy mounted the sway with u bolts to the axle. The Chevy axle tube is slightly smaller than the MJ dana 44 but with just a little bit of clearancing it will bolt right up. It clears my Dana 44. I think this is going to be the new recommendation for a rear sway bar for Comanches. I will also probably use the WJ links to get it mounted properly.

What vehicle did that sway bar come off of? It appears to be a perfect fit for the Comanche. The WJ bar I have extends into the space above the leafs and would love to get something a little more narrow.

Looking at this pic, you could get dowel pins added to the fly wheel at the locations the pressure plate needs them. Regardless of if there are other pin locations on the flywheel.

You could try a local machine shop and see if putting dowel pins in the fly wheel is something they are willing to do.

Also if you convert to disc you will probably want an adjustable proportioning valve to set the rear pressure correctly. Wilwood makes a great one.

Check out this thread. They used Explorer brake parts. Also others have used Crown Vic brakes. https://naxja.org/threads/dana-44-disc-brake-conversion-crown-vic.1045256/

The WJ uses a similar booster but the brake rod is not correct and would have to be cut and welded to achieve the correct pedal height. The 95-96 XJ booster is the only one that is truly bolt in with the exception of the brake lines.

This is what my booster looks like you can see the fuel line. If I remember correctly I just moved the plastic retaining clip to a different hole and it cleared just fine.

I got the rear axle gears set up with the new TrueTrac. I have decided to ditch the T5/NP229 combo and swap to an AX15/NP242. I need to rebuild the transmission and pick up a NP242 to swap into it. I will swap every at once so I don't have to get my driveshafts modded twice. The AX15/242 is longer than the T5/229 and the 44 is longer than the 35.

Yes it is air operated. I agree with the other comments about using a TrueTrac. I have one in both my Eagle and my Comanche. They are great. The rear end can get loose in the snow with a heavy foot, but it is very fun.

If you are keeping the 44 I have a Yukon Zip locker with 4.10 gears I just pulled out a TJ 44 I won't be using.

I have the JKS shackles on my truck and they are great. They are slightly longer than the MJ ones. The eye to eye length is 5.279". https://jksmfg.com/products/hd-leaf-spring-shackle-cherokee-xj-comanche-mj-wagoneer-sj-4c17606d?srsltid=AfmBOooVJT_SHLVlTSfgB5Cx4K-hiXMtSlKqXM1aD9BmFf_SKQP9kRsY

Does your vent control switch on the dash have the AC selection?

Did you Comanche come with AC and a previous owner swapped the pulley in or did it never have AC?

Double check prices before you pull one out the local junkyard. My local junkyard charged me $60 for a throttle body last month. The throttle bodies can be found on eBay for about $30. Also the later 96+ 4.0 throttle bodies are the same and will work just fine on the 92 engine. The only difference is the map sensor was moved on to the throttle body. Just plug the port or run a hose to your existing map sensor.

The issue could be the throttle body itself. I had a similar issue trying to run a Renix IAC valve on a HO throttle body. The pintle size is not the same. Maybe your aftermarket throttle body was made incorrectly and the IAC portion was machined or cast wrong.

Have you used a multimeter to check the ohm reading on the sensor? Or used a infrared thermometer to verify the 240°?

Picked up the block and head from the machine shop. They look great. Now I need to order pistons, bearings and gaskets then I can put it together.

I got the axle shaved and started to set up the gears. I've got some adjustment to do but it is getting close.

It could be a power steering delete pulley bracket. I have 4.0 one I can take a pic of later tonight.