Eagle_SX4

I would stop by the shop and take pictures of the front brake pads and order brake parts that match the parts that were taken off. The front pads look different pre and post 1990. The rear axle brakes are specific to the 44 and I had a difficult time tracking down the right drums and shoes. I finally found some at Advanced Auto. RockAuto may have some but they are not labeled as fitting the 44.

The booster rod is the problem on the 97 booster. The booster you want is from a 95-96 XJ. I used a 97 booster but had to cut and weld the rod shorter. Also the brake line ends need to be changed to metric bubble flare fittings for the master cylinder. That front brake kit is for 1990 and up. The rear brake kit is for 1992 and up. Are the axles in your truck original or have they been swapped to a newer set?

Tow hook brackets sale pending.

Bump

I have a front bumper I don't need any more. I have had it for sale in the local classified for a few months and no one wants it. Before I scrap it I thought I would see if any one wants the parts. Toe hook brackets $30 Metal license plate mount $10 end caps $10 a set push pads $10 Prices don't include shipping. Shipping from 84321. The mounting brackets are the tow hook variety and the only piece missing is the right angle bracket that mounts to the front of the frame rail. I don't have the hardware for the brackets. I have 2 sets of end caps. The ones on the bumper are aftermarket. I have a set of original ones that are scuffed but not broken or cracked.

I dropped the block and head off at the machine shop. It should be done in the next few weeks. I got the crank polished and already have that back. I picked up a cam shaft from Newcomer Racing along with lifters and timing chain. I will get pistons ordered when I get the block back front the shop.

Is this what you are looking for? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1986,comanche,2.5l+150cid+l4,1181382,brake+&+wheel+hub,disc+brake+hardware+kit,1736

Yes, the change was between Renix and HO. The change was the trip reset button moved outside of the speedometer for the HO.

Okay, I can see the voltage flash for less than a second after the REM boots up.

Does anyone know why my REM shows 0.0 volts with the key on engine off, but 14.0 volts when the engine is running? Edit: With the engine off my battery measures 12.7 volts with a digital multimeter.

It goes all the way up the firewall. The dash needs to be pulled to get it out with out cutting it in half.

These switches have been used and fit in the factory slots.

No the XJ axle perches are not the same distance apart as the MJ ones. They will need to be cut off and rewelded. Here is a good diagram of the difference.

The piece going through the o-rings and clip is just an installation tool. Which makes it harder to install the clip. The o-rings and spacer go inside the fuel pressure regulator and the clip goes on the fuel line. They are not meant to be installed together.

I had the same leak last year and the only parts I could find to fit the Renix fuel rail are from Crown automotive. The part number is 83502745. The cheapest place to buy them is from Quadratec. You might as well replace the o-rings on both the feed and return side at the same time so order 2. (They are the same on the Renix fuel rail) https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/fuel-line-repair-kit-jeep-wrangler-yj-cherokee-xj-comanche-mj-and-93 There are 2 o-rings per fitting with a spacer in-between them. Make sure both old o-rings are removed when installing the new ones.

Found a similar one on Facebook from 5 years ago. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=3550157985084080&set=gm.4398706666832341

I agree with the above roll the window all the way down remove the lower exterior window trim, just slide it up to remove it. Then with a hook made out of a stiff wire fish around in the door and hopefully pull the latch mechanism to open the door.

1 more thing to add. In 1996 the power steering pump changed on the 4.0, as did the intake manifold to accept the new pump.

Could be if it is a T that would make it a Laredo and if it is a 1 it would be a base model.

I think this is the correct VIN. This vin is on eBay in an add for a cargo light bezel.

Ultimately I would like to put a XJ44 under it but that will wait until I find one at a good price. If the 35 breaks I will might swap to a Chrysler 8.25 as they are easier to get quickly.

On with the AMX theme. The spoke slots in the horn button had to be widened to fit the earlier wheel. Otherwise a direct swap for the bent steering wheel I had.

I am very excited. This build is slowly becoming an Eagle AMX. If only I could find a brushed aluminum dash for it.

Since I put a fresh 4.0 into my Comanche. I have noticed just how much clatter the tired 4.0 in my Eagle has. So I have decided to build a 4.6 stroker for it. Last week I picked up a 4.2 crankshaft. Today I picked up the block and head I am going to use. '96 NVH block with a 7120 head (soon to be ported). I need to decide on what pistons and cam I am going to run then it will be off to a machine shop. The short block came out of a '97 TJ (P.O. rebuilt a different motor and swapped it out) and the head I got out of a '93 ZJ in the junkyard.

That is the coolest aftermarket part I have seen!! I wonder if it would be possible to add a power ram to original slider window.