Eagle_SX4

After my crankshaft was polished I needed to get .001 bearings for the block. But unfortunately the only .001 bearings available are for the rods. I will need to get the main journals on my crank ground down .010 to be able to get the correct oil clearance. I will take it back to the machine shop on Friday. Good news is I got my axle sealed up and it is ready to have perches and shock mounts welded on. Also I got my AX15 torn down for the rebuild. Waiting on parts to put that back together.

The oxygen sensors are getting hard to find for the Renix system. Several people have had them not work right out of the box. I would start with that.

It is a good sign that the tach moves when revving the engine. That means the needle was probably removed at some point and put back on incorrectly. With the engine off, take the plastic lens off the cluster then simply pull the needle off with your fingers then press it back on while aligning it to zero. I had the same issue when I got my truck. Although it was clear my gauges had been messed with as there was aftermarket gauge faces on it. The gauge faces on yours are original.

If you are going to use the '98 AX15 with an internal slave cylinder you will need to switch the front bearing retainer from your old transmission to the new one so the clutch can function properly. You will also need to get a different pilot bearing. The pilot tip changed to a bigger diameter in about '93.

As far as bleeding the clutch it depends on if you have an internal or external slave cylinder. If yours is stock it should be an internal. It is common to swap to the later external slave for better reliability and easier hydraulic maintenance.

First gear popping out of gear is probably due to a worn shift fork. I had the same problem on a used AX15 I picked up. The previous owner rebuilt it but didn't look at the shift forks. A worn shift fork doesn't let you put it fully into gear and it pops out. The AX15 doesn't have shift pads on the forks and they are a wear item that needs to be looked at closely when rebuilding.

Thanks for looking but that wheel is not the color I am looking for. I already have both a grey and a navy blue wheel of the same style.

The bellhousing pattern is largely the same as the LS except for the top center bolt was moved to accommodate the fuel pump. It looks like the quickdraw ax15 to LS bellhousing is drilled to accommodate the top bolt shift of the LT engines. It is not listed on their website as being compatible but the bolt hole appears to be machined into the bellhousing. https://quickdrawbrand.com/general-motors/bell-housing-jeep-ax15-nv3550-5-speed-to-gm-ls-v8/?srsltid=AU7gw4UiJ2hE8w2xo7TLB5KQiHp-xXuEpBZfoYDqMWu1aSQ17_8gIJjO

Check out this article on the LV1/LV3. https://www.holley.com/blog/post/can_a_modern_v6_swap_work_we_check_out_holley_s_lv1_v6-swapped_pontiac_development_test_vehicle/

My first choice for a V8 swap would be a L33. Second choice for something different would be a LV1. It is the GM LT based 4.3 v6. 2018+ full size van motor. Not very much after market support and would be as much work as an LS swap but with more room in the engine bay.

Finally found a picture of the wheel I am hoping to find. This is an '87 XJ that was on bring a trailer 2 years ago. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987-jeep-cherokee-26/

When I held it up to my axle it was close to the exhaust but it will clear just fine on my long bed. I will need to get a little more creative with the mounting tabs on mine as the links end up in space on the inside of the frame.

That is a very nice truck. It is a full '96 swap with obd2. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1988-jeep-comanche-44/

That is looking great. I love the material you chose for the seat.

Picked up a NP242 out of a '95 ZJ today. It bolts right up to the AX15. It needs to be pressure washed then should be good to go. It shifts through all the gears and turns smoothly. I will run it as is for now and rebuild it only if needed. I also pulled a driveshaft out of a different '96 ZJ so I can have it shortened once everything else is swapped in.

Thanks, I was at the junkyard today and picked one up. It is really cool how Chevy mounted the sway with u bolts to the axle. The Chevy axle tube is slightly smaller than the MJ dana 44 but with just a little bit of clearancing it will bolt right up. It clears my Dana 44. I think this is going to be the new recommendation for a rear sway bar for Comanches. I will also probably use the WJ links to get it mounted properly.

What vehicle did that sway bar come off of? It appears to be a perfect fit for the Comanche. The WJ bar I have extends into the space above the leafs and would love to get something a little more narrow.

Looking at this pic, you could get dowel pins added to the fly wheel at the locations the pressure plate needs them. Regardless of if there are other pin locations on the flywheel.

You could try a local machine shop and see if putting dowel pins in the fly wheel is something they are willing to do.

Also if you convert to disc you will probably want an adjustable proportioning valve to set the rear pressure correctly. Wilwood makes a great one.

Check out this thread. They used Explorer brake parts. Also others have used Crown Vic brakes. https://naxja.org/threads/dana-44-disc-brake-conversion-crown-vic.1045256/

The WJ uses a similar booster but the brake rod is not correct and would have to be cut and welded to achieve the correct pedal height. The 95-96 XJ booster is the only one that is truly bolt in with the exception of the brake lines.

This is what my booster looks like you can see the fuel line. If I remember correctly I just moved the plastic retaining clip to a different hole and it cleared just fine.

I got the rear axle gears set up with the new TrueTrac. I have decided to ditch the T5/NP229 combo and swap to an AX15/NP242. I need to rebuild the transmission and pick up a NP242 to swap into it. I will swap every at once so I don't have to get my driveshafts modded twice. The AX15/242 is longer than the T5/229 and the 44 is longer than the 35.

Yes it is air operated. I agree with the other comments about using a TrueTrac. I have one in both my Eagle and my Comanche. They are great. The rear end can get loose in the snow with a heavy foot, but it is very fun.